AbesGuitarShop Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Hey guys I just got a Gibson the problem is there is no serial on the head stock and no sticker on the inside so I have no way of figuring out what model or year it is. If anyone has any insight on what it might be it would be much appreciated. More pictures can be found at http://s1330.photobucket.com/user/abestool/library/Gibson%20ES335?sort=3&page=1 Thanks For the Help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigKahune Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 . With no serial on the headstock, and the look of the tuner backs, the guitar looks to be from the 70s when decals were used for the serials. The decal is now gone. Looks like a ES-355 with a varitone control and maestro lyre. Very cool guitar. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbesGuitarShop Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Thanks for reply big help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimt Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Nice 355...does this have the Volute on the Back of the Headstock to neck? whats with the V etched on the back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR TOAD Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Hey guys I just got a Gibson the problem is there is no serial on the head stock and no sticker on the inside so I have no way of figuring out what model or year it is. If anyone has any insight on what it might be it would be much appreciated. More pictures can be found at http://s1330.photobu...5?sort=3&page=1 Thanks For the Help THE guitar looks to be a real GIbson and fits basically ES-355 with a varitone control and maestro lyre THE sticker where the Serial Number use to be is missing.. you can research the guitar through the attached site it will give you which model and basically what factory and year.. without a serial number... THE biggest problem I see that you have is the Gibson appears to be legitimate but has had a major Headstock repair the V in the neck appears to be a fix technique used to replace a snapped off headstock where they carve a new neck and headstock into the old neck to repair it it looks like a professional fix and quite well done however being a picture I can not be sure... if you click on the link in the email this site will help you find the guitar as it appears and give you the basic info within the years of production as well as the factory,,,, I also would contact the GIBSON Customer Service Support link on the GIbson site and request basic information I have gotten replies from them that have indeed helped in the past The picture I attached shows what I mean about fixing a snapped headstock and the file technique used again I am just using my thoughts on this and I admit I can be wrong I have attached the GIBSON SITE CUSTOMER SERVICE SUPPORT so you can contact them CUSTOMER SERVICE EMAIL In the USA:1-800-4GIBSON (1-800-444-2766) Good Luck *)o(*b Customer Service <Customer.Relations@gibson.com> GIBSON SITE look under support WHAT IS My GIBSON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimt Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Ya... I dont you need a serial number now... whats with the plank on the back of the neck? Broken Headstock? the headstock was refinished, the serial number removed.. who did that repair? and why that way? You should be able to get a prrox date from the pickups, or pots... the volute has dissapeared if it had one.. so that will make it more difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayyj Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 The tuners, one piece mahogany neck and unbound F holes all say 60s rather than 70s to me. Knowing the nut width and neck profile would help narrow it down, as would checking the pot codes (if original) as others have said, although my gut says 65-68. It's difficult to get a fix on what has happened to the neck without a full length shot from top of headstock to body join, but if I were a betting man I'd say a replacement headstock with original overlay scarf jointed onto the original neck - taking the serial number with it. Although the repair would be bad news from a value point of view, it looks wonderful and I bet it sounds amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbesGuitarShop Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Thanks Everyone For The Help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Thanks Everyone For The Help. Larger F-holes plus witch hats indicates 1968-1969. ES 355, by all appearances. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayyj Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 D'oh, missed the witch hats.... Nick, do you know when the bound f holes come in? I've seen them on '69s and they seem standard by 1970. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 D'oh, missed the witch hats.... Nick, do you know when the bound f holes come in? I've seen them on '69s and they seem standard by 1970. Don't know on the bound f-hole date on the 355. I'm a 335 guy. I happen to have a '68 ES 335-12 with the larger f-holes. The other thing you would look for in this guitar is glue residue from the label to determine if was an oval label or rectangular. I think 1969 was the last year of the oval label. Things like dates on the caps could help as well, but I think precise dating of the guitar is probably not essential for anything except the owner's peace of mind. There are others here a lot more knowledgeable than me on some of these dating details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitball Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 I'm in agreement about the late 60s theory. The "witch hat" knobs started somewhere in 1967 (some '67 guitars have them, some don't). The bound f-holes started in the early 70s. I would take out the neck pickup and peek inside the cavity. If you can see the end of the neck tenon inside the cavity, then the guitar is probably from mid '67 to mid '69. Otherwise, I'd say late '69 or '70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L5Larry Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 As this guitar was "reborn" at the time of the addanecktomy, the rest of this information is meaningless unless you're going to "part-out" the guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayyj Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Thanks Nick and Spitball. It may not be particularly important in this guitar given the neck issue, but it's useful to pickup a little general knowledge on threads like these. 355s upto 1965 are very well documented and easy to date - later than that things get considerably murkier, particularly when you throw reused serial numbers and clearly misidentified Ebay and Gbase listings into the mix. In the UK vintage 355s are extremely thin on the ground so I rarely get to see these guitars, and I appreciate those who do see them sharing their knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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