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More Tuning Issues With 335


junglejem

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I notice Mills' recent post regarding set-up and tuning issues with his 335. I start this new thread, because I do not want to hijax Mills' thread, and moreover, because my issues seem to be different.

 

I have a brand new Memphis 335 figure-top sunburst 335, and I absolutely love it...but at the same time I'm getting frustrated with tuning issues. In my case, I am pulling the guitar out of tune by bending strings. Especially the G and B strings. A full-step bend will invariably result in the string going flat. If I play any lead lines, breaks, solos, etc., the guitar will not be in tune when the song is over. Admittedly, I am having to watch my grip pressure while playing chords, because I have spent the past 11 years playing acoustic guitar almost exclusively, and I tend to be "heavy-handed." But the main problem is not with heavy-handed chording, it is with string bends.

 

I also own a Gretsch 6120-1959LTV and have absolutely no tuning issues using the same techniques as on the 335. On both guitars, I'm using 11's...currently D'Addario Chromes. Admittedly, I do not tie off the string ends at the tuning posts...don't really know how to, and i've never done it in 40+years of playing guitar.

 

I heard Larry Carlton comment that he uses graphite nuts on his 335s, to avoid tuning issues. Is the fix that simple? I would gladly swap out the nut for graphite if that is the answer. I have tried graphite powder in the string slots, but this is only partially effective, and pretty messy. I don't know if I should start filing or sanding the string slots, since I wouldn't really know what I was doing.

 

Based on comments in the other post, 335s have some tuning tendencies, so maybe some of you folks have experimented and resolved similar issues.

 

Any thoughts?

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It may be the nut slots are too tight for the string guages you're using - in this case graphite might help a little but it's not addressing the root of the problem. That would be the first thing I'd want to check. It's not a big job to widen the slots as needed, although best left to a tech if it's an expensive guitar you don't want to experiment on.

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I notice Mills' recent post regarding set-up and tuning issues with his 335. I start this new thread, because I do not want to hijax Mills' thread, and moreover, because my issues seem to be different.

 

I have a brand new Memphis 335 figure-top sunburst 335, and I absolutely love it...but at the same time I'm getting frustrated with tuning issues. In my case, I am pulling the guitar out of tune by bending strings. Especially the G and B strings. A full-step bend will invariably result in the string going flat. If I play any lead lines, breaks, solos, etc., the guitar will not be in tune when the song is over. Admittedly, I am having to watch my grip pressure while playing chords, because I have spent the past 11 years playing acoustic guitar almost exclusively, and I tend to be "heavy-handed." But the main problem is not with heavy-handed chording, it is with string bends.

 

I also own a Gretsch 6120-1959LTV and have absolutely no tuning issues using the same techniques as on the 335. On both guitars, I'm using 11's...currently D'Addario Chromes. Admittedly, I do not tie off the string ends at the tuning posts...don't really know how to, and i've never done it in 40+years of playing guitar.

 

I heard Larry Carlton comment that he uses graphite nuts on his 335s, to avoid tuning issues. Is the fix that simple? I would gladly swap out the nut for graphite if that is the answer. I have tried graphite powder in the string slots, but this is only partially effective, and pretty messy. I don't know if I should start filing or sanding the string slots, since I wouldn't really know what I was doing.

 

Based on comments in the other post, 335s have some tuning tendencies, so maybe some of you folks have experimented and resolved similar issues.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Good luck. I like my guitar. A lot. But when it's not in tune it's like a pretty woman with a yankee accent. Ain't nobody got time for that.

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It does sound like the nut slots aren't cut right or there is a burr that needs to be removed. The strings are binding (getting stuck in the slots). I good indication that this is happening is if you hear a ping while tuning a string. Thats the sound it makes when it suddenly releases from being stuck.

 

As someone else suggested, find a qualified tech to check out the nut slots for you. Have them check the slots on the bridge saddle too. Sometimes these slots need to be smoothed out a bit.

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As the others have said, the nut needs to be addressed by a good luthier. Opening the nut too much will also cause issues, so if you do it yourself make sure you know what you are doing. The nut was not cut for 11's at the factory. A graphite nut will also cause the same issue if it is not cut right. Before spending the money on a new nut, have it filed correctly as a hack job will cause other issues. Replacing with a graphite nut should not be too expensive if you go that route. Maybe put a set of Gibson 9's on it for a few days and see if the issue is gone. That would help diagnose the issue.

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I just take the string off the slot and use a folded 600 to 1500 sandpaper and move it back and forth to widen the slots. Sand downwards towards the respective tuners and pressure more to the sides...avoid bearing down on front edge of the nut next to the fretboard...then lubricate and test. In other words you try to widen/polish the slot and not lower the slots. It works like a charm.

 

You can also get a gas welding tip cleaner (from HomeDepot, $5.00) and use it like a slot file. But I find the sandpaper worked better with the newer models that have Plek'd slotted corian.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Even though Gibson has been building guitars for like 120 years, poorly cut nuts seem to be an ongoing issue. Regardless of model, or which factory they come out of.

 

As many have said - take it to a good luthier and have them file the slots for the string guage you use and it will greatly help the problem.

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Everyone gave you good advice here it's definitely the nut slots. Gibson makes some beautiful guitars but for some strange reason just about all their guitars need nut work after they leave the factory. I've had 4 Gibson's and they all had they exact same issue on the 1,2,and 3 string slots. None of my other guitars have nut issue just Gibson's. All I can say is if your not experienced and don't have the proper tools take it to a professional. It isn't always just the slots that need widening, sometimes the radius of the slots are off which don't match the bridge or fretboard radius. If a slot is to shallow the string has to travel further when you fret it then the note will be off tone from stretching the string so much. My new 335 was off at the nut, the strings did not match the radius gauge the way it was slotted from the factory. I even had one string at the bridge saddle that was to high.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I feel your pain. I know the 335 and the 339 are not the same guitar but I had the same problems with my 339. I was this close to sending it back to Gibson for a warranty repair and I even had an RA number issued. The Gibson rep recommended Big Bends Nut Sauce to lubricate the nut during the call in for the RA. I gave that a try. I am a believer in that stuff and I use it now on all of my guitars. It helped.

 

I did have the nut worked on by an authorized Gibson repair shop in town but that didn't fix it. (That was before I had the RA setup.) It seemed like the stock Kluson-style Gibson Deluxe tuning machines just weren't up to snuff due to slipping so I replaced them with a set of the Gibson (Grover) chrome tuners with the tulip buttons. Same shape as the Kluson style but they have a finer gear ratio.

 

Ok after that it was better but not perfect. I fine-tuned the setup (action and string height) based on some of things I read on this forum and some other research. It was getting closer but not quite perfect.

 

The last thing I did was replace the Tune-o-matic bridge with a roller bridge from Stewmac. I had to do some surgery to install it because it mounts differently than the tune-o-matic but it went in in less than a half hour. That was the thing that did it. It took some work but now my 339 stays in tune like I expect. I can set it down and pick it up a few days later and it's still in tune. I can tune it, put it in the case, and open it up for a gig and it's still in tune. I would have to retune practically after every song at first.

 

Tuning fix mods in a nutshell:

-open nut slots

-Big Bends nut sauce

-Grover tuners

-fine tuned setup

-roller bridge

total cost of about $100 doing the labor myself

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