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Put 10's on my SG that had 9's


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I decided to treat the fret board and change the strings on my 2014 SG Special. It had the stock Gibson Bright Wire 9's on it (have read they put 9's on their SGs and Les Pauls since 2013) and now it seems the intonation is slightly off. If I, for example, strum an Open A and D it sounds okay. But further down on the neck they are out of tune. And I am thinking because of the heavier gauge of the strings it may bowed the neck slightly more? I have a set of 9's I can put on it. Just wanted to get some input before I take off the 10's and re-string it. I know nothing about adjusting the truss rod.

 

Thanks

Greg

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Yeah.. different string gauges require some intonating...

 

What sort of bridge does it have? If its a tune o matic its real easy to intonate.. just get a screwdriver and move the bridge saddles back or forward until it intonates properly again (one way makes it flatter and the other way makes it sharper (can never remember which :))

 

The neck may need adjustment but try just moving the saddles first.. If you do have to do some neck adjustment, its pretty easy.. Remove the truss rod cover and you will most likely want to turn it just a tiny bit clock wise (like not even a quarter turn).... If you look straight down the neck you will get an idea if its bowing or not (or get an 18" ruler and place it on top of the fret board sideways and see if theres a gap or it sits on there straight).

 

Or you could just take it to a local shop and get a guitar tech to do it for you. Its a real easy job. :)

 

 

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Yeah.. different string gauges require some intonating...

 

What sort of bridge does it have? If its a tune o matic its real easy to intonate.. just get a screwdriver and move the bridge saddles back or forward until it intonates properly again (one way makes it flatter (can never remember which :))

 

The neck may need adjustment but try just moving the saddles first.. If you do have to do some neck adjustment, its pretty easy.. Remove the truss rod cover and you will most likely want to turn it just a tiny bit clock wise (like not ever a quarter turn).... If you look straight down the neck you will get an idea if its bowing or not (or get an 18" ruler and place it on top of the fret board and see if theres a gap or it sits on there straight).

 

Or you could just take it to a local shop and get a guitar tech to do it for you. Its a real easy job. :)

 

 

 

It has the Nashville Tune-O-Matic Bridge. I will try it this evening. If I don't succeeded I will take it to the Luthier I have done business with before and let him adjust it.

 

Thanks

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It has the Nashville Tune-O-Matic Bridge. I will try it this evening. If I don't succeeded I will take it to the Luthier I have done business with before and let him adjust it.

 

Thanks

No worries.. and good luck... :)

 

But really its so easy to do I find it hard to believe that anyone who can learn to play guitar couldn't adjust intonation on tune o matic ;) :) You cant really screw it up..

 

The neck stuff however just takes a tiny bit of experience to know what you are looking for when you look down the neck.. But again its kinda common sense.. if you have a good eye you can tell if theres a bow.. Just never turn the nut too much, that's the only real rule... quarter of a turn at a time at the most and then let it settle in a bit, if your still not sure after that then maybe let your luthier look at it.

 

And theres always Youtube, theres hundreds of vid on these subjects on there, and its always good to know how to do these things yourself.. :)

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  • 1 month later...

Yeah.. different string gauges require some intonating...

 

What sort of bridge does it have? If its a tune o matic its real easy to intonate.. just get a screwdriver and move the bridge saddles back or forward until it intonates properly again (one way makes it flatter and the other way makes it sharper (can never remember which :))

 

The neck may need adjustment but try just moving the saddles first.. If you do have to do some neck adjustment, its pretty easy.. Remove the truss rod cover and you will most likely want to turn it just a tiny bit clock wise (like not even a quarter turn).... If you look straight down the neck you will get an idea if its bowing or not (or get an 18" ruler and place it on top of the fret board sideways and see if theres a gap or it sits on there straight).

 

Or you could just take it to a local shop and get a guitar tech to do it for you. Its a real easy job. :)

 

 

 

Yeah its dreadful. It takes all day. Just use one gauge and try to stick with it. I bought this Les Paul and have been using .10's and switched to 11's. And now I have to re intonate the entire guitar. They usually use .10's or .09's from the factory. You'll be sitting with it all day plucking and tuning.

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Lol...

 

I think its like anything else.. The first few times will take time, but like everything the more you do it, the easier it gets...

 

I do thing Its worth while learning this stuff for yourself though..

No mate it's not easy. You need measuring gauges. An under string radius gauge wouldn't hurt and a string action gauge. It's a very complex process. You need to understand the radius of the fret board and also understand a couple of other guitar building principals. You can adjust the dial knobs to raise the action to avoid 'fret buzz'. You just turn the dial under the saddle bar until the strings begin the clear the frets after. That's it. I wouldn't recommend adjusting the saddle screws.

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I decided to treat the fret board and change the strings on my 2014 SG Special. It had the stock Gibson Bright Wire 9's on it (have read they put 9's on their SGs and Les Pauls since 2013) and now it seems the intonation is slightly off. If I, for example, strum an Open A and D it sounds okay. But further down on the neck they are out of tune. And I am thinking because of the heavier gauge of the strings it may bowed the neck slightly more? I have a set of 9's I can put on it. Just wanted to get some input before I take off the 10's and re-string it. I know nothing about adjusting the truss rod.

 

Thanks

Greg

Do you play a lot of high notes after the 12th fret? Judging by the fact that your changing your strings you have probably worn them out. If so you could have some fret wear that is creating the issue.

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No mate it's not easy. You need measuring gauges. An under string radius gauge wouldn't hurt and a string action gauge. It's a very complex process. You need to understand the radius of the fret board and also understand a couple of other guitar building principals. You can adjust the dial knobs to raise the action to avoid 'fret buzz'. You just turn the dial under the saddle bar until the strings begin the clear the frets after. That's it. I wouldn't recommend adjusting the saddle screws.

Well if you say so...

 

On a tom bridge you have the screws to go back and forward to adjust for intonation that is the only way to do it and you adjust the height to stop fret buzz...

 

IF you are replacing a nut.. then yes that's a bit more difficult... But simple adjustment for different string gauges is easy.

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Your probably right about it. If he mentions that the frets after the 12th are sharp well it would seem as a truss rod adjustment issue. There are a couple of adjustments to make after changing the strings and checking all the notes. There must be some practical books/resources on the market the can help.

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Your probably right about it. If he mentions that the frets after the 12th are sharp well it would seem as a truss rod adjustment issue. There are a couple of adjustments to make after changing the strings and checking all the notes. There must be some practical books/resources on the market the can help.

Yes indeed... that could be the case that the truss rod needs adjusting... and the only real rule about that is only turn it very small amounts at a time (clockwise) like not even a quarter of a turn...

 

But to test it is a bit harder, you really need a notched straight edge.. I mean you can do it by eye but you need to know what you are looking for.

 

And theres LOADS of stuff on youtube about all of this....

 

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Yes indeed... that could be the case that the truss rod needs adjusting... and the only real rule about that is only turn it very small amounts at a time (clockwise) like not even a quarter of a turn...

 

But to test it is a bit harder, you really need a notched straight edge.. I mean you can do it by eye but you need to know what you are looking for.

 

And theres LOADS of stuff on youtube about all of this....

 

Thanks bro. Why does the guitar in the other videos posted have the saddle screws facing in and this guy's got em facing out towards the back? Is it just preference? also always stretch the strings at the 12th fret.

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Thanks bro. Why does the guitar in the other videos posted have the saddle screws facing in and this guy's got em facing out towards the back? Is it just preference. also always stretch the strings at the 12th fret.

Yeah it doesn't really make much difference which way around they go (edit.. as long as the saddle slots for the strings are cut well)... I think if you turn them around you get more room at one end or something like that, so if you have run out of room too intonate turn the flat end of the saddle around and you get more room :).. or maybe some people do it cos they like the way it looks? :)

 

And yes when new strings are on you gotta doo some stretches to get them to stay in tune... im not sure it mattes where you stretch but you can get some nice big ones in nearer the end of the fretboard for sure [thumbup]

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Thanks bro. Why does the guitar in the other videos posted have the saddle screws facing in and this guy's got em facing out towards the back? Is it just preference? also always stretch the strings at the 12th fret.

I just re-read your question there...

 

Lol and it seems I got the wrong end of the stick.. I thought you were talking about the saddles themselves..

 

As for why the screws are one way or another... Usually they point towards the pickups on the old style ABR-1 bridge and when a guitar has a modern bridge they face the other way (usually) (and its easier access that way)... and no it doesn't make much difference as long (as I said before) as the string slots are cut well.

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I just finished intonating and it plays great and sounds great! I didn't use the measuring gauges. Would I be taken seriously for not? Well I didn't. I got a small knick in the fret so that note is #. I need to re-crown is that a difficult task? I had to raise the action but I didn't have a measuring gauge for that. would it have given me peace of mind to have one? I raised the action till the strings stopped buzzing.

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I just finished intonating and it plays great and sounds great! I didn't use the measuring gauges. Would I be taken seriously for not? Well I didn't. I got a small knick in the fret so that note is #. I need to re-crown is that a difficult task? I had to raise the action but I didn't have a measuring gauge for that. would it have given me piece of mind to have one? I raised the action till the strings stopped buzzing.

Nice one [thumbup]

 

And no... it does not really matter.... If you were doing this for someone else and getting paid for it you would have those tools and it would matter.. Doing it for yourself all you have to worry about is does my guitar play and sound good.. After that, just get on with playing it [thumbup]

 

As for re-crowning... hmm... yeah that takes a bit of experience and a few special tools (the right kind of files)... For that if you don't have the tools or experience id take it to a local guitar shop and get a tech to do it.. Its not a hard job for them and shouldn't cost too much.

 

 

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