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Best solder?


Rabs

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I need to get some solder... ive been using the stuff that came with the kit I have for a while now but have run out so need to get some more...

 

Is there better or worse types of solder for electrics? I know theres a few different types like resin core and lead free etc... But I don't know why you would use one over the other...

 

Or is it all apples and oranges?

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I need to get some solder... ive been using the stuff that came with the kit I have for a while now but have run out so need to get some more...

 

Is there better or worse types of solder for electrics? I know theres a few different types like resin core and lead free etc... But I don't know why you would use one over the other...

 

Or is it all apples and oranges?

 

Just about anyone will tell you 60/40 rosin core solder, 60/40 being 60% tin, 40% lead.

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And to address this...yes, there are worse. Never, i repeat Never use Acid Core solder with electronics...leave that stuff for the plumbers...

 

Rosin core always.

 

-Ryan

Ok.. thanks man.. I will be sure to keep away from it [thumbup]

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Guest Farnsbarns

Silver solder (up to 6%) is supposed to have better electrical characteristics and better flow and a slightly lower melting point. It's also more expensive.

 

Yup, silver solder (contains no silver) is generally easier to flow. A heads up, Rabs, in the UK you'll probably find solder referred to as flux-cored, not rosin-cored. That's because the core is made of flux, not rosin. [biggrin]

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Silver solder carries no benefits unless you are soldering silver connections, where it bonds differently and reduces potential damage to the silver that traditional solder alloys could affect. For most electrical work, there is no benefit in going beyond traditional lead/tin mixtures.

 

As to 60/40 vs 63/37, I would go with the latter. 63/37 is a eutectic ratio, meaning it transitions from liquid to solid and vice versa at a single temperature point. 60/40 is not eutectic, which means it goes through a transitional pudding-like state as it melts or solidifies.

 

If the components you are wiring are always held together by fixtures, clips, tape, etc, then the differences are largely moot. If your components have any risk of moving or jiggling even a little as the joint is solidifying, then the 60/40 leaves much greater risk of allowing a joint to be compromised. Not quite the same as a cold joint, but if there's any movement or vibration in this pudding phase, you can end up with a rather weak pre-fractured joint.

 

I would suggest just buying a roll of Kester "44" 63/37 solder. Buy it once, and unless you get in to plumbing or jewelry you'll probably never have to buy another roll.

 

That said, if you have 60/40 that works perfectly fine and I wouldn't worry about replacing it - you just have to be a teeny bit more careful .

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Do buy good quality solder, a reputable brand.

 

I bought some on eBay directly from China thinking solder is solder and nope, the thing becomes crums when heated, smells like a$$ and does not stick to anything. I ended up just going to Radio Shack and getting some there, while it is also made in China it is made to good specs.

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Well this is what I ended up with due to lack of much choice around here...

 

What the hell is that second warning symbol? I think the skull and cross bones means do not eat.. but not sure about that second one.

DSC_0707_zpsa98d4401.jpg

 

And this one shows the temperature info for anyone interested

DSC_0709_zps1124cf27.jpg

 

 

And I got a second type just in case.. I wasn't sure what "multi core" is.. but thought what the hey....

DSC_0708_zps7903ce83.jpg

 

So I used that silver stuff above...

 

And I didn't like it.. compared to what ever it was I was using before (which was probably 60/40) this stuff slips and slides all over the place and rather than standard solder this stuff solidifies almost instantly.. Where as im used to having maybe a second to re-jiggle if theres any unwanted movement...

 

But that's probably cos im still learning when it comes to the soldering side... im getting better but I still struggle sometimes. The hardest bit for me seems to be getting the braided wire on the back of the pots..

 

Actually I have another question I hadn't thought about much... Whats the best wattage iron to get? The one ive been using is a really basic 40w one.. Would I be better off with a higher volt one?

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What the hell is that second warning symbol? I think the skull and cross bones means do not eat.. but not sure about that second one.

DSC_0707_zpsa98d4401.jpg

 

That's a corrosive symbol. I'm assuming since it becomes a molten metal at such a low temperature.

 

Actually I have another question I hadn't thought about much... Whats the best wattage iron to get? The one ive been using is a really basic 40w one.. Would I be better off with a higher volt one?

 

40w will do pretty much anything you need to do in guitar electronics...but more important is the tip shape/size.

 

If you were to get an iron, I would suggest one with variable temperature/wattage and a manufacturer that has a large assortment of replacement tip styles available. For the backs of pots, as you say, a thick "screwdriver" or "chisel" type tip would give you more surface area, making the heat transfer quicker.

 

Remember that when it comes to soldering, higher temperatures for short periods of time are better than lower temperatures over a longer period of time. For example, my starting temperature for guitar effects pedals/guitar wiring is 600F.

 

-Ryan

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That's a corrosive symbol. I'm assuming since it becomes a molten metal at such a low temperature.

 

 

 

40w will do pretty much anything you need to do in guitar electronics...but more important is the type shape/size.

 

If you were to get an iron, I would suggest one with variable temperature/wattage and a manufacturer that has a large assortment of replacement tip styles available. For the backs of pots, as you say, a thick "screwdriver" or "chisel" type tip would give you more surface area, making the heat transfer quicker.

 

Remember that when it comes to soldering, higher temperatures for short periods of time are better than lower temperatures over a longer period of time. For example, my starting temperature for guitar effects pedals/guitar wiring is 600F.

 

-Ryan

Yeah I got a screwdriver flathead type... ive tried using the pointy type but hated it...

 

Im kinda happy with the iron I have... Even though I have no idea what 40w means in temperature?

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Yeah I got a screwdriver flathead type... ive tried using the pointy type but hated it...

 

Im kinda happy with the iron I have... Even though I have no idea what 40w means in temperature?

 

Depends on what the specific model of iron you're using. Not all 40w irons are the same...

 

-Ryan

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Depends on what the specific model of iron you're using. Not all 40w irons are the same...

 

-Ryan

It says

 

steel soldering iron warms up in 2 minutes and has a maximum temperature range of 400°C.

 

so maybe I should look for a 600°C one?

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It says

 

steel soldering iron warms up in 2 minutes and has a maximum temperature range of 400°C.

 

so maybe I should look for a 600°C one?

 

400°C is 752°F..more than enough. I keep mine at about 600°F.

 

And considering you get a drop in temperature when touching components (since they act as heatsinks), you're right in the ballpark in terms of temperature...

 

-Ryan

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400°C is 752°F..more than enough. I keep mine at about 600°F.

 

And considering you get a drop in temperature when touching components (since they act as heatsinks), you're right in the ballpark in terms of temperature...

 

-Ryan

Duuhh...

 

I must be tired.. I didn't even see the F in your response until I just looked back.......

 

I always use degrees so just assumed..

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You should be good to go with the equipment you have. Forty watts is good for wiring guitars. It's a little big for circuit boards, but good for guitars.

 

To solder the stranded ground wires to the backs of the pots, use the chisel point and lay the tip flat against the back of the pot for about 5 seconds while pushing the wire to the side. Then start melting some solder onto the back. At about 8 to 10 seconds, slide the wire back on top of the solder blob with the tip and leave it in the solder while you add more solder - with the tip touching both the wire and the back of the pot. A couple seconds later, put the tip on top of the wire, still adding solder, until the solder builds up on the wire. You may have to heat the top of the wire and the pot a couple of times, back and forth, on either side of the wire, while adding the solder, to get a good joint. The whole thing should take about 15 to 20 seconds.

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You should be good to go with the equipment you have. Forty watts is good for wiring guitars. It's a little big for circuit boards, but good for guitars.

 

To solder the stranded ground wires to the backs of the pots, use the chisel point and lay the tip flat against the back of the pot for about 5 seconds while pushing the wire to the side. Then start melting some solder onto the back. At about 8 to 10 seconds, slide the wire back on top of the solder blob with the tip and leave it in the solder while you add more solder - with the tip touching both the wire and the back of the pot. A couple seconds later, put the tip on top of the wire, still adding solder, until the solder builds up on the wire. You may have to heat the top of the wire and the pot a couple of times, back and forth, on either side of the wire, while adding the solder, to get a good joint. The whole thing should take about 15 to 20 seconds.

nice post. good description.

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When it comes to QUALITY solder for electronics, there are two main brands (used by audiophile types). That would be WBT solder, and Cardas.

 

I have used both. And in many cases, they actually do "sound" better. They definitely don't make things sound worse compared to generic-types.

 

Also, they are much easier to use. Low melting temp, good flow characteristics. The Cardas has a melting temp of 160 degrees F. I think the WBT is the same, but I don't remember.

 

If I were (like I was at one time) planning on doing any significant amount of soldering or building, I would google these and find some mail-order suppliers and get some shipped to me. They aren't expensive. Good chance also that the mail-order suppliers that sell these also sell some things that are better than what the average guy is used to, like good wire and connecters, caps and resisters, tubes, etc.

 

I can say from personal experience, using these two brands will make a guy seem to be a better at it than he thinks. You might find yourself making solder joints looking so good you think they belong in pictures. And they certainly make better quality connections.

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You should be good to go with the equipment you have. Forty watts is good for wiring guitars. It's a little big for circuit boards, but good for guitars.

 

To solder the stranded ground wires to the backs of the pots, use the chisel point and lay the tip flat against the back of the pot for about 5 seconds while pushing the wire to the side. Then start melting some solder onto the back. At about 8 to 10 seconds, slide the wire back on top of the solder blob with the tip and leave it in the solder while you add more solder - with the tip touching both the wire and the back of the pot. A couple seconds later, put the tip on top of the wire, still adding solder, until the solder builds up on the wire. You may have to heat the top of the wire and the pot a couple of times, back and forth, on either side of the wire, while adding the solder, to get a good joint. The whole thing should take about 15 to 20 seconds.

Cool... Thanks for the tip ... I will try that next week [thumbup]

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When it comes to QUALITY solder for electronics, there are two main brands (used by audiophile types). That would be WBT solder, and Cardas.

 

I have used both. And in many cases, they actually do "sound" better. They definitely don't make things sound worse compared to generic-types.

 

Also, they are much easier to use. Low melting temp, good flow characteristics. The Cardas has a melting temp of 160 degrees F. I think the WBT is the same, but I don't remember.

 

If I were (like I was at one time) planning on doing any significant amount of soldering or building, I would google these and find some mail-order suppliers and get some shipped to me. They aren't expensive. Good chance also that the mail-order suppliers that sell these also sell some things that are better than what the average guy is used to, like good wire and connecters, caps and resisters, tubes, etc.

 

I can say from personal experience, using these two brands will make a guy seem to be a better at it than he thinks. You might find yourself making solder joints looking so good you think they belong in pictures. And they certainly make better quality connections.

Yeah I may just do that.. go and find a really great brand.. but for what I wanted I needed it quickly so couldn't wait for it to be sent to me...

 

But I will look in to that for sure... cheers [thumbup]

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