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Refinishing my '94/'95 LP-100


TheQuijano

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So I've taken some drastic steps this month. In early December I picked up my first REAL Gibson, LPJ Rubbed Goldtop, for a stupid good price. Which was going to replace my 94 (or possibly 95) Epiphone LP-100 (which I am the original owner). I had been wanting to upgrade the LP100 for years, but never had the drive to really put any effort into such a base level guitar. It was given to me as a birthday present, and my mother made me swear to never get rid of it. She never mentioned modifying it. I had fallen out of love with it's gloss black finish and I had always disliked the Creme on Black looks; so years ago the pickup rings had been changed to black and I removed the pick guard. Now I'm just tired of looking at this plain black guitar I've had for nearing 20 years.

1544931_10205112927158920_2063675194684283672_n.jpg?oh=74962e4baa261a94445c8dade87874f2&oe=5538642D

I have decided to refinish this guitar and give it my own custom vibe, visually speaking. I began with disassembling it, taking pictures along the way. Everything was very low end with the electronics, which is no surprise what so ever. When I removed the neck I found 2 extra holes. One appears to be a missed drill neck screw, the other was a larger diameter and about 7.5mm, which I assume was for carving for drilling purposes to keep the guitar locked to tooling. Once taken apart I began the stripping process. I found a few threads mentioning how the poly coat on the body was a bear to get through. One user had success with a heat gun, and one with a heavy duty chemical stripper. I tried both. Neither worked great.

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I ended up using a sanding flap wheel and my electric drill to finish cleaning off the final coats. Then came back with some 80 and 180 sand papers to work the wood even. Then some 22o for cleaning. I also used some make shift tooling to extract the tail piece lugs.

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I was planning to use my torch to bring out the grain the in wood, but I am out of oxygen for my O/A setup and just used the acetylene. This gas, when burned creates a lot of soot from its flame. The wood looks totally charred before wiping the excess off. This was tonight's result of "acetylene soot" treatment and a little bit of follow-up sanding to create a vintage look. A little more sanding then I start staining.maybe begin tomorrow.

10844186_790957000940058_2015758565_n.jpg

That's what I've got for now. Next to prep the wood for stain, then begin staining. I will report back on the ASAP.

 

-The Quijano

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So I applied some wood prep tonight, to get this body ready to stain. I've never stained wood before so I asked my best friend for some tips. His family has been installing hardwood floors for 30+ years. Wood Prep was suggested. Next I am moving onto the stain. I've cut up an old white T-shirt and readied myself mentally. I just don't want to mess things up and have to start over. I'm not perfectionist, but I do want it to look good. Wish me luck!

 

10852767_1518023181784239_958643721_n.jpg

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Welcome to the forum Quijano. [biggrin]

 

Been following. Very interesting.

I'm looking forward to seeing how this "Frankenstein" of yours is going to turn out. [thumbup]

 

Thanks Brad1. I'm ordering the electronics now, should be in after the holidays. Still can't decide on the pups. I'm not looking to make this an amazing guitar by any means, it was originally for cosmetic reasons. But I bought a book on guitar set-up, and now I'm hooked. I don't like having to pay to have something done, I'm DIY through and through. www.QuijanoBikes.com

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Tonight,3 hours after the prep was applied, I hit the body with the MinWax Green Tea stain. When I opened the can, the green was WAY darker than what I expected.

16068377992_7956441b53.jpg

When I applied it, it looked like crap. Too dark. I think the Soot had a lot to do with it. Looked like a Hunter Green ....bummer. I masked off the edging before I applied the stain, to help keep a fine line. I left the mask and began to sand the stain off. I took the wood back down to 320 which lightened the wood back up. I didn't try SUPER hard to get all of the Soot darkening and dark green stain away, as it gave a nice vintage/relic look.

I readied the body again. My lack of knowledge of staining may show here...My second go around with the stain, I soaked a portion of my rag in the stain then rang it out into a small cup of water until i achieved a lighter shade of "green tea."

I applied my lighter stain, and I am now waiting for that to dry. Step by step. Stay patient.

15883310457_86656b5a3e.jpg

It's so light I could barely see the tint. So, now, I can work my way up to my desired shade. Which is how stain should work, am I right?

Lesson learned about the Acetylene soot....and going full-strength stain.

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Hey guys, I've made some developments, and had problems. I have been better documenting in another forum, so I have copied those posts and will add them here:

 

12-21-2014

OK' date=' so I figure while I wait for the stain to soak/cure/dry (which ever the term may be), I would load current state pictures, and mention my intentions moving forward.

So, as mentioned, I have applied the second coat of Green Tea stain and began a burst effect. I'm not looking for a huge burst, just a gradient to the edges.

[img']https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7558/15886001969_28ee2c9286.jpg[/img]

 

For the back side and Neck I will be using Minwax Honey 272, over top of the Acetylene Soot. This time I am expecting a darker-than-advertised finish. I may hit the front with a single layer of Honey too, I don't know. This is all roulette for me, but I'm having fun learning something new.

Minwax Honey 272:

honey-272.jpg

The wood on my guitar doesn't have as tight of grain so I think this is not an accurate portrayal of what it will look like.

 

12-23-2014

16065922036_f5e7879e06_b.jpg

So I worked the stain up to Tea Green....Im not happy a the the outcome.

I'm not sure why. I think its because the grain isn't evident enough.

OK. Back to square one.

I have already begun to sand it down again.

15904265048_1424d30b9d_h.jpg

Also' date=' today I picked up a set of replacement bridge anchors. The original posts threaded into the wood and began to lean because I ran the bridge too high. While at the hardware store I found out a worker their builds his own guitars and could help guide me with my refinish. I'll be stopping by there again tomorrow to chat with him more. I'm taking the body with me with get some staining tips.

Back to sanding....Arg.[/quote']

 

 

12-25-2014

Merry XMAx everyone! News from the Refinishing front-line. I visited my hardware store guitar builder' date=' Kyle, today and he gave me more than a few pointers. In his opinion my LP-100 body isn't a great candidate for a stain finish with the eye popping wood grain. He's built and refinished way more guitars than me, so I took his opinion to heart. So, the stain is down the drain (figuratively of course). I am moving onto a rattlecan finish, with lots of sanding to follow. I picked up finer sand paper today as well. I will be keeping my original plan for the final coat with MinWax's Poly satin clear.

I have sanded down the body and prepared it for a spray bomb. Alas, the next task to pick a color.

I did purchase a can of Krylon today, but I'm up in the air about it....

I bought Krylon Blue Ocean Breeze

[img']http://a.imageshack.us/img40/5682/sdc10847u.jpg[/img]

 

Or: Krylon Pisachio

Picture19-1.png

 

I painted my Strat's pick guard the pistachio and I dig it. With either color I will likely do a Tortoise pick guard (if I can find one at a decent price, less than $40).

 

Anyone have a pic of a LP with a foam paint job (not stain)?

 

At this point in my other thread I added a Voting Poll to choose the color for the guitar to become.

 

12-29-2014

Ok' date=' ya'll. I'm doing some searchin for a rattlecan Gold, since The People appear to be leaning that way. I've found this:

Rustoluem Champagne Mist.

[img']http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/14/14d70fe8-67d1-4bb4-b6fa-d40c0ba097c9_400.jpg[/img]]

Perhaps a cross between Gold Top and Harvest Gold?

A user sample image:

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/images/17688-A.jpg

 

Then this:

c4b3a18a-f8c1-413c-b058-c1f827b29f01_400.jpg

User Sample:

http://www.teenyideas.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/gold-scissors-after-4-edited.jpg

 

 

I already have the Honey 272 stain from MinWax; a color I had been planning on using.

 

Additionally, I am having trouble sourcing (locally) a Cream Jack Plate for this guitar. Should I bite the bullet and just use a cheap copy? Or does anyone really see the jack plate so I should just use the black one I have sitting on my desk?

 

<br><br>

OK, so this is where I sit currently. The You Pick the Color Poll is leaning toward a GoldTop with a honey stain back & neck. Which will differ from my new LPJ Rubbed Goldtop with a Dark back (which was an option for the LP-100 Refinish). If you are a member of mylespaul.com I urge you to stop by and vote! The Poll closes on January 2nd at 11:50pm EST Thanks for tuning in!

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That's the first I've heard of 'no stain after paint'. Admitted, I am no wood worker. The back of the guitar came out great (in my amateur opinion) using stain.

Alas, I am giving it another round of sanding and prepping tomorrow. I really don't mind all the work; it is giving me some thing different to focus on. Something I've never done before. In learning and enjoying it.

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That's the first I've heard of 'no stain after paint'. Admitted, I am no wood worker. The back of the guitar came out great (in my amateur opinion) using stain.

Alas, I am giving it another round of sanding and prepping tomorrow. I really don't mind all the work; it is giving me some thing different to focus on. Something I've never done before. In learning and enjoying it.

 

 

Sorry, I was being somewhat sarcastic in my reply, about guitars. If you don't totally saturate a hard wood with paint, it's o.k. to thoroughly sand and stain, I have done it with Mahogany and a few other woods, just have to make sure to get ALL the paint off. Can't wait to see the outcome..

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Sorry, I was being somewhat sarcastic in my reply, about guitars. If you don't totally saturate a hard wood with paint, it's o.k. to thoroughly sand and stain, I have done it with Mahogany and a few other woods, just have to make sure to get ALL the paint off. Can't wait to see the outcome..

 

Yea, its a real pain cause the wood will absorb some of the paint so the stain won't come out as desired.

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I was pretty thorough when removing the original finish. It was thick, too. The colored stain was rank, so I started over. the guitar was voted to receive a GoldTop finish with a Honey stain back. I will begin that paint job tomorrow. A few new parts are En route now. Imnnotnlooking to make this LP100 the end all be guitar. In just wanted it to be a good first project guitar.

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OK. Made some progress today. Between getting work ready for tomorrow and the honey-do list of chores for the weekend, I didn't get as much done as I had hoped.

I got past the prep and priming stage! I decided to go with the Duplicolor as recommended by another forum

 

tumblr_nhoebhC95e1th2qijo1_500.jpg

 

I put on a series of coats. I had decent coverage after 3 coats. After the 4th I hit it with some 400 grit then the 5th coat. Then some wet time with 600. Then one more layer and 600 for good measure.

 

I had to run out to work for a few hours, but when I returned I set up a spray area and vent fan in my garage because I couldn't keep from getting a layer of color on it.

I threw on 2 layers of Duplicolor's Sunburst Gold Metallic. I couldn't be more stoked for the color. It looks to be an average color of all the Goldtop color options I had researched. It currently sits sanded down to 400 and awaiting MORE PAINT.

tumblr_nhov1vyO4I1th2qijo1_500.jpg

More to come!

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Looks good so far. If your going to put a clear coat on it, and I assume you are, no need for the 600, 400 will work fine, just use a good amount of water. On the clear coat, apply the first coat, then add a second before the first is totally dry, then get some 1000 grit, apply one more coat, and lightly sand wet with the 1000 grit. When it's completely dry. Then polish with fine automotive polish like DuPont. It's a tad more work, but the results are worth it imho. BTW, the 1000 grit will remove all imperfections, you'll be left with a nice flat gloss finish. If you are thinking of a satin type finish, please disregard..

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Looks good so far. If your going to put a clear coat on it, and I assume you are, no need for the 600, 400 will work fine, just use a good amount of water. On the clear coat, apply the first coat, then add a second before the first is totally dry, then get some 1000 grit, apply one more coat, and lightly sand wet with the 1000 grit. When it's completely dry. Then polish with fine automotive polish like DuPont. It's a tad more work, but the results are worth it imho. BTW, the 1000 grit will remove all imperfections, you'll be left with a nice flat gloss finish. If you are thinking of a satin type finish, please disregard..

 

Thanks for the tips. This thing is getting so smooth with all the fine sanding I'm doing. A few more layers of Gold and I'll be ready for the top clear. The grain is still very evident at the moment. Getting close though!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Shielded, but have not tested on a meter. I did purchase one, though. I'll check it later.

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And I haven't photographed the back, so here it is.

16166253589_f479bb2b3f_m.jpg

And the distressed pick-up covers. I didn't realize that Seymour Duncan produces the Finger Burners with a similar finish, so I took mine a step further and slopped on some Etchant to get a decaying look. I still have some fresh, shiny covers If I don't want to keep these.

16164905448_ebb2385a0e_m.jpg

 

Then the mock-up with the knobs I am on the fence about.

 

15730021424_50f0225049_m.jpg

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Shielded, but have not tested on a meter. I did purchase one, though. I'll check it later.

16351564222_f0b5d1128d_m.jpg

And I haven't photographed the back, so here it is.

16166253589_f479bb2b3f_m.jpg

And the distressed pick-up covers. I didn't realize that Seymour Duncan produces the Finger Burners with a similar finish, so I took mine a step further and slopped on some Etchant to get a decaying look. I still have some fresh, shiny covers If I don't want to keep these.

16164905448_ebb2385a0e_m.jpg

 

Then the mock-up with the knobs I am on the fence about.

 

15730021424_50f0225049_m.jpg

 

Looks sharp!

 

I'd go with the amber knobs in the bottom right picture. I'm not a fan of the chrome knobs on a LP.

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Cool! it looks great. I did a similar thing to a guitar once. I bought an epi lp for £10 (no electrics or hardware on and sanded down right through the veneer in places).

 

I used cans of autobody spray paint and clear on top of the colour. It turned out pretty good in the end.

 

I look forward to seing more pictures of your progress as you go along!

 

 

 

P.S

here's a before and after pic of how mine turned out.

 

DSC_0086.jpg

 

DSCF1759_zpsce4a5d07.jpg

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Cool! it looks great. I did a similar thing to a guitar once. I bought an epi lp for £10 (no electrics or hardware on and sanded down right through the veneer in places).

 

I used cans of autobody spray paint and clear on top of the colour. It turned out pretty good in the end.

 

I look forward to seing more pictures of your progress as you go along!

 

 

 

P.S

here's a before and after pic of how mine turned out.

 

DSC_0086.jpg

 

DSCF1759_zpsce4a5d07.jpg

I had come across your old thread some time ago. Thanks for sharing! I will be getting this built up this next week. I'm chomping at the bit to finish it, but must wait a few more days. I am an administrator at a private school and January is "How Things Work" month. I have given the opportunity to finish this build with some ofthe students in our 4-6th greades who: A.) are interested and B.) who have earn the opportunity to sit in. We've already totally disassembled and rebuilt a bicycle.

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