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FT-135 Saddle Removal


Blues2

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So, on my ft 135, the action is still fairly high, and makes it hard for my old hands to play bar cords and even single line playing down toward the 12th fret. The low E string at the 12th fret is about 3/16 off the fret board.. [scared] What I'd like to know is, can I remove the saddle and sand it down, a wee bit, as it stands, it's about 1/8" high, so I figure maybe take 1/16" off the bottom..? Just installed new strings, and didn't want to trash them to find out, so I'm hoping one of you guru's her could help me out. TIA.

 

Oh, I should add, that the neck looks really straight, is that a concern..?

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So, on my ft 135, the action is still fairly high, and makes it hard for my old hands to play bar cords and even single line playing down toward the 12th fret. The low E string at the 12th fret is about 3/16 off the fret board.. [scared] What I'd like to know is, can I remove the saddle and sand it down, a wee bit, as it stands, it's about 1/8" high, so I figure maybe take 1/16" off the bottom..? Just installed new strings, and didn't want to trash them to find out, so I'm hoping one of you guru's her could help me out. TIA.

 

Oh, I should add, that the neck looks really straight, is that a concern..?

 

if that saddle is an insert that fits into a slot on the bridge, sure, you can sand down the bottom of the saddle, just don't sand off too much, and if you do, just put a shim in the saddle slot, a piece of paper or thin wood strip. Paper, cut to size. Works for me. Be careful not to sand the bottom of the saddle insert at an angle, keep it straight, properly aligned so the bass and treble sides aren't high/low after sanding is completed. Do it a little at a time.

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also keep in mind that if the action gets to low for neck relief and nut hight you can get fret buzz 3/16 at 12 th fret is a tad high but the neck and nut play a part a ying and yang kind of thing anyway first I'd try lighter gauge strings if you play in standard tuning see how that works then go to adjustments if you have doubts and are not experienced in set ups I'd recommend a good luthier ( not a chain store one sorry no disrespect to many bad experiences ) a real luthier will charge a little more but will be well worth the money and a one stop fix it right the first time experience .

Good luck and post back on results :)

 

Edit : I missed your last words about the neck being really straight. NO ! a straight neck to me and my luthier which made me cry because I am anal about necks being straight ! and he agreed POW ! mind blown !

 

I have battled to many folks who messed with guitars claiming I need a bow in the neck .... Total bull sh!t though many will argue . I will not tolerate any necks with waviness in the fret board let alone bows to compensate for fret buzz and or a proper set up .

 

This is just one of my pet peeves in quality control, most all my guitars are spot on neck straight and the only two have a tad bit of waver but those were before I payed attention. :) and it does matter between cheap or expensive guitars they all suffer from poor QC except the real expensive hand check ones or so they claim .

 

 

kindle wood death to bowed necks ! LOL :)

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also keep in mind that if the action gets to low for neck relief and nut hight you can get fret buzz 3/16 at 12 th fret is a tad high but the neck and nut play a part a ying and yang kind of thing anyway first I'd try lighter gauge strings if you play in standard tuning see how that works then go to adjustments if you have doubts and are not experienced in set ups I'd recommend a good luthier ( not a chain store one sorry no disrespect to many bad experiences ) a real luthier will charge a little more but will be well worth the money and a one stop fix it right the first time experience .

Good luck and post back on results :)

 

Edit : I missed your last words about the neck being really straight. NO ! a straight neck to me and my luthier which made me cry because I am anal about necks being straight ! and he agreed POW ! mind blown !

 

I have battled to many folks who messed with guitars claiming I need a bow in the neck .... Total bull sh!t though many will argue . I will not tolerate any necks with waviness in the fret board let alone bows to compensate for fret buzz and or a proper set up .

 

This is just one of my pet peeves in quality control, most all my guitars are spot on neck straight and the only two have a tad bit of waver but those were before I payed attention. :) and it does matter between cheap or expensive guitars they all suffer from poor QC except the real expensive hand check ones or so they claim .

 

 

kindle wood death to bowed necks ! LOL :)

 

Thanks guys. I think that from the above advice, I'm going to take to my luthier, he specializes in restoring older guitars. I really my ft 135, but as I said, in standard tuning, and even a step down, 12's which I like, I use to use 13's on my older acoustic's.. [biggrin] it just makes playing a wee bit to hard, i.e. I don't always get a clean tone from bar chords, ect. The only draw back is, I know this little jewel isn't worth much, I hate to sink way more into it than I could ever get back from it. But, I'm hopefully gonna be gettin my Masterbuilt shortly. Thanks again to both of you.

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Good to hear , I know it's hard to justify spending money on a cheaper guitar but really to me that does not matter as long as you like it it's worth it . Make sure your luthier knows you tune down . :)

 

I just got word my blue ridge BR180A is ready . Brand new and I had to take it in for a new bridge or send it back , it sounded to good to me to do so so now I'm in deep lol .

 

Can't to see your neW MB when you get it :)

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Thanks guys. I think that from the above advice, I'm going to take to my luthier, he specializes in restoring older guitars. I really my ft 135, but as I said, in standard tuning, and even a step down, 12's which I like, I use to use 13's on my older acoustic's.. [biggrin] it just makes playing a wee bit to hard, i.e. I don't always get a clean tone from bar chords, ect. The only draw back is, I know this little jewel isn't worth much, I hate to sink way more into it than I could ever get back from it. But, I'm hopefully gonna be gettin my Masterbuilt shortly. Thanks again to both of you.

 

Having an improperly set up takes a lot of the fun away from playing it. I believe any guitar worth being in your collection is worth a proper set up. It's great you will be getting a Masterbilt soon...perhaps you can keep the other one for open tuning?

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also keep in mind that if the action gets to low for neck relief and nut hight you can get fret buzz 3/16 at 12 th fret is a tad high but the neck and nut play a part a ying and yang kind of thing anyway first I'd try lighter gauge strings if you play in standard tuning see how that works then go to adjustments if you have doubts and are not experienced in set ups I'd recommend a good luthier ( not a chain store one sorry no disrespect to many bad experiences ) a real luthier will charge a little more but will be well worth the money and a one stop fix it right the first time experience .

Good luck and post back on results :)

 

Edit : I missed your last words about the neck being really straight. NO ! a straight neck to me and my luthier which made me cry because I am anal about necks being straight ! and he agreed POW ! mind blown !

 

I have battled to many folks who messed with guitars claiming I need a bow in the neck .... Total bull sh!t though many will argue . I will not tolerate any necks with waviness in the fret board let alone bows to compensate for fret buzz and or a proper set up .

 

This is just one of my pet peeves in quality control, most all my guitars are spot on neck straight and the only two have a tad bit of waver but those were before I payed attention. :) and it does matter between cheap or expensive guitars they all suffer from poor QC except the real expensive hand check ones or so they claim .

 

 

kindle wood death to bowed necks ! LOL :)

 

 

Got to agree I always make sure the neck is straight then I look at the rest of the guitar. The saddle is always checked for sanding for string action and the intonation.

 

 

 

 

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Having an improperly set up takes a lot of the fun away from playing it. I believe any guitar worth being in your collection is worth a proper set up. It's great you will be getting a Masterbilt soon...perhaps you can keep the other one for open tuning?

 

It does. I'm leaning toward ordering the Sunburst from Sweetwater soon. As the Ft 135 sits now, an open tuning works well, although I can't find my brass slide..lol so I used one of my sockets to my ratchet set, it sounded pretty nice. Still, I'm taking it in this Tuesday to have it looked at, it's also a good little finger picker.

 

Thanks for all the reply's.

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It does. I'm leaning toward ordering the Sunburst from Sweetwater soon. As the Ft 135 sits now, an open tuning works well, although I can't find my brass slide..lol so I used one of my sockets to my ratchet set, it sounded pretty nice. Still, I'm taking it in this Tuesday to have it looked at, it's also a good little finger picker.

 

Thanks for all the reply's.

 

 

Well, so much for buying a new Masterbuilt... [mad] wife's car took a poop, it's an older car, and not worth dumping a 1000.00 into it, so we are going shopping for a low mileage suv, plus she's retiring in April, and we need to pay off all of our credit cards before then. I'm retired on a smallish retirement fund, plus SS..Guess I'll start saving...lol

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