srv3089 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Hi, I haven't posted a whole lot on here but I need the help of the luthier experienced person....I purchased an 08' Gibson Les Paul Studio I got it for $500 with a Gibson black Snake Skin Hard Shell Case the only little problem is the Maple Cap is separating at the seam by the control knobs.... I bought this knowing this and am gonna fix this but wanted to know what the best glue is to use and where I could find a syringe that I could use to inject the Glue into the separation then clamp it down and let it dry.....Thanks to all in advanced for all the help...I will post a pic as soon as I can to show where and what I am talking about....Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Farnsbarns Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Are you sure it's separating? Cracks in the finish, especially along joints, are very common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Hmm, yeah.. hard to see... Does it move up and down when you press on it? As for glue.. Gibson use Titebond... (as do I) :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Are you sure it's separating? Cracks in the finish, especially along joints, are very common. Yes I am sure.... Hmm, yeah.. hard to see... Does it move up and down when you press on it? As for glue.. Gibson use Titebond... (as do I) :) Yes It moves when I squeeze the body together.... Thanks for the info on the Glue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Yes I am sure.... Yes It moves when I squeeze the body together.... Thanks for the info on the Glue... Two bits of advise.. One is obvious.. Don't clamp too hard or you will crack the top.. 2, titebond wipes off with water while its still wet.. so have a damp cloth handy to wipe any excess off when you squeeze the clamp down (but make sure the cloth isn't too wet).. and also obviously make sure you pad the ends of the clamp or you will damage the wood. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Two bits of advise.. One is obvious.. Don't clamp too hard or you will crack the top.. 2, titebond wipes off with water while its still wet.. so have a damp cloth handy to wipe any excess off when you squeeze the clamp down (but make sure the cloth isn't too wet).. and also obviously make sure you pad the ends of the clamp or you will damage the wood. Good luck Thanks for that...I actually found a place to get titebond liquid Hide Glue so I will get that tomorrow and I am gonna check the hobby and craft shops for the syringe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Farnsbarns Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Interesting. Any idea how that happens? Be aware that the control cavity is probably through to the cap. I'd take the cover of while syringing the glue in so you can check you're not filling the pots with glue. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbluesplayer Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Gibson uses Titebond 50, which is one of the yellow glues, similar to Titebond II, rather than the liquid hide glue. Titebond II is one of the yellow colored glues that you can also get most anywhere. It's probably available at the same place that has the liquid hide glue. I think Rabs is talking about the yellow glue rather than the hide glue. He can confirm that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Gibson uses Titebond 50, which is one of the yellow glues, similar to Titebond II, rather than the liquid hide glue. Titebond II is one of the yellow colored glues that you can also get most anywhere. It's probably available at the same place that has the liquid hide glue. I think Rabs is talking about the yellow glue rather than the hide glue. He can confirm that. Lol... yes I should have mentioned which one I use... I just use the good old original... which I think is pretty much the same thing.. titebond 2 I think is waterproof (once it dries) or something... there is a titebond 3 aswell... I think some of them are better for wood that's used outdoors... Never tried the hide glue... I know they sometimes use it for neck joints on some custom stuff but that's about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 OK Thanks for all the help guys...Will try to keep this updated to let you know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Hi, got the glue today and the syringes on the way hope this works.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 I forgot to ask were the 2008 Studios traditional or modern Weight relieved?....I can't remember what the transition year was for this....Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deeman Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Chambered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Chambered. Are you sure? This is awful heavy for a Chambered body.......It weights in at 9Lbs I've had a couple of chamber's but they were not this heavy both were around 7-7.5Lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbluesplayer Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Are you sure? This is awful heavy for a Chambered body.......It weights in at 9Lbs I've had a couple of chamber's but they were not this heavy both were around 7-7.5Lbs Oh yeah - It would be good to figure out where any holes are. You'll want to make sure you don't shoot the stuff into a hole and use up a bunch of glue just filling up the hole, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deeman Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Are you sure? This is awful heavy for a Chambered body.......It weights in at 9Lbs I've had a couple of chamber's but they were not this heavy both were around 7-7.5Lbs Yeah, even the LP Standards were chambered that year. They used the heavier wood so i can still be heavy. Imagine if it weren't chambered, It'd be 20 lbs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Interesting. Any idea how that happens? Be aware that the control cavity is probably through to the cap. I'd take the cover of while syringing the glue in so you can check you're not filling the pots with glue. Good luck. Some how I didn't see this post ↑↑ ....But yes I have already thought of this and i am going to remove the controls all together...its easy to do they are all on the stupid PCB board...... why they do that I don't know because if you want to change pickups you have to get Gibson's or I think Duncan's has this option on a few with the quick connect on them....or buy 4 new pots and caps and revert it to the way it should be....Again thanks to everyone for the help and info as soon as the syringes get here I will try to post on how it is going and how I repair this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Farnsbarns Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Some how I didn't see this post ↑↑ ....But yes I have already thought of this and i am going to remove the controls all together...its easy to do they are all on the stupid PCB board...... why they do that I don't know because if you want to change pickups you have to get Gibson's or I think Duncan's has this option on a few with the quick connect on them....or buy 4 new pots and caps and revert it to the way it should be....Again thanks to everyone for the help and info as soon as the syringes get here I will try to post on how it is going and how I repair this... Note the point above, your guitar is chambered, you'll only want glue around the edge. Looking at those syringe needles I think they might be a little thick as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Note the point above, your guitar is chambered, you'll only want glue around the edge. Looking at those syringe needles I think they might be a little thick as well. The way I am gonna do it is actually fairly easy...I will drill a small pilot hole for the needle to fit (if needed) inject the glue then clamp it, after its dry I will fill the hole (unless the glue has filled it already) and touch it up....I will try to post pics as I do It...Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 The way I am gonna do it is actually fairly easy...I will drill a small pilot hole for the needle to fit (if needed) inject the glue then clamp it, after its dry I will fill the hole (unless the glue has filled it already) and touch it up....I will try to post pics as I do It...Thanks. Drilling holes :o Obviously its up to you but that sounds a bit extreme to me... You don't have any missing wood to fill as such, its more like you are re-gluing the top down... What I would do is just place a dab of glue on my finger and run it along the crack (an old credit card works too).. You really wont need that much.. Just do that a few times with your finger, it should be enough to force some glue in there.. You will know theres enough in there as you want a bit to squeeze out when you clamp it... Its not like super glue, you can wash it off quite easy and you get a few mins before it starts to harden on the wood... Also with that small bottle you bought you may be able to squeeze it in straight from the bottle as it has a small applicator.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjsinla Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Drilling holes :o Obviously its up to you but that sounds a bit extreme to me... You don't have any missing wood to fill as such, its more like you are re-gluing the top down... What I would do is just place a dab of glue on my finger and run it along the crack (an old credit card works too).. You really wont need that much.. Just do that a few times with your finger, it should be enough to force some glue in there.. You will know theres enough in there as you want a bit to squeeze out when you clamp it... Its not like super glue, you can wash it off quite easy and you get a few mins before it starts to harden on the wood... Also with that small bottle you bought you may be able to squeeze it in straight from the bottle as it has a small applicator.. Right, don't drill, just push a little glue in there. That glue is really strong, only takes a little. There will not be a lot of stress on tha joint so it should only take a little to hold it together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srv3089 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Right, don't drill, just push a little glue in there. That glue is really strong, only takes a little. There will not be a lot of stress on tha joint so it should only take a little to hold it together. the separation isn't big enough to use a credit card or any thing and just putting it on your finger and trying to wipe in there seems kind of like its not gonna work..I want to get glue inside of the separation not just a little dab on the edge...I am trying to make sure this does not come apart again....but thanks for the Ideas...somehow it actually made me think of an idea insted of drilling a pilot hole...I will try using a toothpick to spread it open a little more (hopefully without causing anymore damage) to inject the glue...again Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 the separation isn't big enough to use a credit card or any thing and just putting it on your finger and trying to wipe in there seems kind of like its not gonna work..I want to get glue inside of the separation not just a little dab on the edge...I am trying to make sure this does not come apart again....but thanks for the Ideas...somehow it actually made me think of an idea insted of drilling a pilot hole...I will try using a toothpick to spread it open a little more (hopefully without causing anymore damage) to inject the glue...again Thanks. Yes totally... Just as you say be careful you don't push it too hard... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Farnsbarns Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 The more I look at the picture the more I think I'd use thin superglue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 The more I look at the picture the more I think I'd use thin superglue. Yeah that would work too.. but its a pain in the butt to clean off if it spills anywhere... At least with wood glue you get a chance to clean up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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