Plunging into the Intonation Pool

[Greg1967]

I am trying to wrap my head around the intonation process. I have a 2013 SG I bought used. Needs intonated. The further I go down the neck the more out of tune it is. I have educated myself best I can so far via youtube and various publishings. I have an my disposal a good chromatic tuner. And I know if it is flat at the 12th fret then the saddle needs moved back and vice versa is sharp.

 

My question to the great minds on here is this. Is it best to align all the saddles up down the middle of the bridge and start with the low E and work my way back or forward from there and do the same with the A and so forth? My 08 SG and my Les Paul were professionally set up. And the saddles are staggered as always. I realize they are each slightly different each guitar and can’t simply be copied and expected to be intonated. Just wondering where a good starting position is for each saddle.

[stein]

Starting point? How about where it is? Doesn't matter where you start, but where it ends up.

 

Couple few things to keep in mind: Intonantion can sometimes change with other adjustments, like the action, both bridge hieght and truss rod adjustments. Also, with a change of strings.

 

So...basic rule of thumb, intonate with the same brand and at LEAST the same gauge of string you are wanting to use, at the very least, the closer the better. If you can, don't waste a new set of strings, because often you will have to change them afterward if you made drastic changes. Make the big changes on older strings and fine-tune with the new ones.

 

Kinda goes without saying, but no need to flip saddles beforehand. Do it only if it needs to, that "need" being everything is set up and you are out of travel to get it right. USUALLY, you won't need to.

 

Lastly, the common way of doing the open string compared to the 12th fret: That's fine to do it that way, and it IS the "thoery" of what proper intonation is, but it is more accurate to compare to actual fretted notes rather than rely on the accuracy of the nut. So, check ALL the notes/frets and adjust accordingly. It will get you closer.

 

Lastly lastly, DON'T be afraid to loosen the string before turning screws. You SHOULD do that. Better to spend extra time loosening and tightening strings than it is to strip screws, or have a screwdriver slip.

[Greg1967]

Starting point? How about where it is? Doesn't matter where you start, but where it ends up.

 

Couple few things to keep in mind: Intonantion can sometimes change with other adjustments, like the action, both bridge hieght and truss rod adjustments. Also, with a change of strings.

 

So...basic rule of thumb, intonate with the same brand and at LEAST the same gauge of string you are wanting to use, at the very least, the closer the better. If you can, don't waste a new set of strings, because often you will have to change them afterward if you made drastic changes. Make the big changes on older strings and fine-tune with the new ones.

 

Kinda goes without saying, but no need to flip saddles beforehand. Do it only if it needs to, that "need" being everything is set up and you are out of travel to get it right. USUALLY, you won't need to.

 

Lastly, the common way of doing the open string compared to the 12th fret: That's fine to do it that way, and it IS the "thoery" of what proper intonation is, but it is more accurate to compare to actual fretted notes rather than rely on the accuracy of the nut. So, check ALL the notes/frets and adjust accordingly. It will get you closer.

 

Lastly lastly, DON'T be afraid to loosen the string before turning screws. You SHOULD do that. Better to spend extra time loosening and tightening strings than it is to strip screws, or have a screwdriver slip.

 

 

Thanks for the pointers. I am a solid user of 10's. I plan on changing the strings though. I'm partial to a particular kind.

 

So definitely focus on the tuners before the screws? Okay. I got pretty close last night just using my snark. But I have the chromatic tuner now. I feel more confident that I can get it much closer than I have as of yet.

[stein]

Thanks for the pointers. I am a solid user of 10's. I plan on changing the strings though. I'm partial to a particular kind.

 

 

Of corse. I meant to say, if you have major adjustments to make, as in you are going to move the saddle a good distance, do it BEFORE you change strings, so as not to have a kink in the new strings you are going to put on.

 

Granted, if they are the same gauge. (Don't adjust to 9's and then put on 10's).

[stein]

 

So definitely focus on the tuners before the screws? Okay. I got pretty close last night just using my snark. But I have the chromatic tuner now. I feel more confident that I can get it much closer than I have as of yet.

Don't know what you mean.

[Versatile]

Just a word or two to 'muddy the waters' somewhat... :blink:

 

Many folks get quite 'hung up' on intonation issues...sometimes, but not always with good reason...

 

In theory, any fretted note can be 'out of tune' depending on finger placement and pressure

 

So IMO intonation is a compromise more or less

 

Most acoustics have a 'fixed' bridge albeit often with an 'intonated' profile...

 

Some Les Paul Juniors have a quite crude 'straight across' bridge

 

Good luck

 

V

 

[kidblast]

so one thing to be clear, when you set intonation, it's always best to do that AFTER a string change (eg: new strings)

 

and I always slack the tuning on what ever string I happen to be working on so there is no undue amount of resistance on the adjusting screw threads.

 

you also should make sure that what ever tuner you are using is set to equal temperament if there are options to set different ones.

 

(for example, Peterson tuners have various temperaments, the "Guitar" setting alters the in-tune pitch by a few cents the relation ship between the G and B string to compensate the tuning problems on this two strings.) when you are doing intonation work, you don't want that set.