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G Not Staying In Tune


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Yes. Another question about a Gibson and the G string not staying in tune...

 

I have a 2013 Gibson LPJ. Up until recently it has been staying in tune just fine. But recently the G string is going out of tune when I bend it. I've changed the strings. Added graphite to the nut slot. Used Nut Sauce on it (after cleaning out the graphite). Still no good. The tuning machines on this guitar are, in my opinion, sub standard. They tend to feel a bit too soft when turning. My only other guess is that the G Tuning Machine is giving back when I bend the string and causing it to go out of tune.

 

Anyone else experienced this? Or any other suggestions?

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If you tune up, as in, tuning "up" to pitch, it's nearly impossible for it to be the tuner. Especially just one. The tuners aren't that bad.

 

To test if it is the nut, press down on the string behind the nut, as well as make bends. The string should return to tune. That will tell you if the nut is binding.

 

It's also possible it could be the bridge, as they have slots too. But also, could have some play in the saddle.

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Could be how you wrapped the string around the tuning peg?

 

Too many winds and it will go out of tune... What I normally do is do one wind that goes over the top of the string and then one wind that goes under it.. that kinda clamps the string in place and helps with tuning issues.

 

Like this.. but this was before I made sure that the bottom wind was the last one so the string is as low as possible giving a good break angle on the headstock

DSC_0741_zps6a95bc2b.jpg

 

Apart from that or just you are unlucky enough to get a broken tuner im not sure what else to say.

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Could be how you wrapped the string around the tuning peg?

 

Too many winds and it will go out of tune... What I normally do is do one wind that goes over the top of the string and then one wind that goes under it.. that kinda clamps the string in place and helps with tuning issues.

 

Like this.. but this was before I made sure that the bottom wind was the last one so the string is as low as possible giving a good break angle on the headstock

DSC_0741_zps6a95bc2b.jpg

 

Apart from that or just you are unlucky enough to get a broken tuner im not sure what else to say.

 

 

I wrap mine the same way so the tip is bound by the other strings. Been doing that for awhile now. Although I usually leave a bit more string. I usually leave about 1 1/2" of string when I am putting them on. I'm still of the opinion it is the tuning machine. Thanks for input though.

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If you tune up, as in, tuning "up" to pitch, it's nearly impossible for it to be the tuner. Especially just one. The tuners aren't that bad.

 

To test if it is the nut, press down on the string behind the nut, as well as make bends. The string should return to tune. That will tell you if the nut is binding.

 

It's also possible it could be the bridge, as they have slots too. But also, could have some play in the saddle.

 

 

Yes. I make sure I tune up so there isn't the possibility of slack. I will try your suggestion and press down on the string past the nut. But not very much pressure.

 

I didn't check the saddle. I had it professionally set up about a month ago and hate messing with the intonation. I will try turning the screw back and forth to its original position and see if that helps.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

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Yes. I make sure I tune up so there isn't the possibility of slack. I will try your suggestion and press down on the string past the nut. But not very much pressure.

 

I didn't check the saddle. I had it professionally set up about a month ago and hate messing with the intonation. I will try turning the screw back and forth to its original position and see if that helps.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

No, don't need to turn anything. Don't do that.

 

Put the guitar in playing position. LISTEN to the g string pitch, then press down on the string behind the nut, making the pitch higher. Does it go back in tune when you take the pressure off?

 

It's pretty easy to check, just use a little common sense. The string should glide fairly easy across the nut. You just listen to the pitch of the string as you apply pressure on both sides of the nut, doing a bend on one side, and pressing the string behind the nut on the other, you should be able to get an idea if the nut is binding the string there, and roughly how much.

 

The saddle: Tune to pitch, do a string bend and LOOK at the saddle. If it is moving, you will see it. If you don't see, or feel it move, then obviously, it isn't. You should see it if it is.

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When in doubt, try this knot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpYGjP0f9-k.

 

Keep in mind that the tuners are in a straight line here, though - for the G string on a LPJ, you need to go in the opposite direction, so to speak.

 

I'm assuming you've stretched the string properly, and winded it with the coils going downwards.

 

Messing with intonation sounds like... no. You've just had it professionally set up. I'd ask whoever did it to take a look at it, if the knot in the vid above doesn't do the trick.

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No, don't need to turn anything. Don't do that.

 

Put the guitar in playing position. LISTEN to the g string pitch, then press down on the string behind the nut, making the pitch higher. Does it go back in tune when you take the pressure off?

 

It's pretty easy to check, just use a little common sense. The string should glide fairly easy across the nut. You just listen to the pitch of the string as you apply pressure on both sides of the nut, doing a bend on one side, and pressing the string behind the nut on the other, you should be able to get an idea if the nut is binding the string there, and roughly how much.

 

The saddle: Tune to pitch, do a string bend and LOOK at the saddle. If it is moving, you will see it. If you don't see, or feel it move, then obviously, it isn't. You should see it if it is.

 

 

Okay. It goes out of tune when I press down on the string beyond the nut. Although it doesn't seem to go out of tune as much as when I bend the string at the fret board. I would say about twice as bad when I bend it at the fret board.

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Hello!

 

The G string on Gibsons is most notorious for tuning problems.

 

Your problem is caused by sticking nut. Apply some graphite shavings to the nut slot, and the problem is gone for a good time.

 

I have/had this problem on every Gibson I have/had. It's always the G string. It is caused by the way slots are cut. They are not done in the best way for the break angles of the G string after the nut.

 

Cheers... Bence

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Okay. It goes out of tune when I press down on the string beyond the nut. Although it doesn't seem to go out of tune as much as when I bend the string at the fret board. I would say about twice as bad when I bend it at the fret board.

There is your answer.

 

See above post, and try some lube and see if you can't get it to stop.

 

If that does work well enough, take it to your "guy" (I reckon you have one, being as you mentioned having a set-up done). The nut could use a little filing to eliminate the binding.

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Hello!

 

The G string on Gibsons is most notorious for tuning problems.

 

Your problem is caused by sticking nut. Apply some graphite shavings to the nut slot, and the problem is gone for a good time.

 

I have/had this problem on every Gibson I have/had. It's always the G string. It is caused by the way slots are cut. They are not done in the best way for the break angles of the G string after the nut.

 

Cheers... Bence

Hey man...

 

He says he tried some graphite and nut sauce??

 

I guess my only other suggestion is to completely change the nut for a Tusq one... I have used them and so have many people on here with great results...

 

That's about the only other thing I can think of apart from actually buying a new single tuning peg...?

 

To the OP, did you get this guitar from a shop or online? If you got it from a shop id go back and tell them.. And tell them all the things you tried and you spoke to us on here and still no joy. If you got it on ebay or its too much hassle to take back.. Get a new nut first.. Then if all else fails a new tuner for that one sting? Like this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Graph-6010-String-Gibson-Guitars/dp/B00A236GMG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1428597751&sr=8-2&keywords=tusq+nut+les+paul

 

OR maybe even email Gibson customer service and see what they suggest.

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Hey man...

 

He says he tried some graphite and nut sauce??

 

I guess my only other suggestion is to completely change the nut for a Tusq one... I have used them and so have many people on here with great results...

 

That's about the only other thing I can think of apart from actually buying a new single tuning peg...?

 

To the OP, did you get this guitar from a shop or online? If you got it from a shop id go back and tell them.. And tell them all the things you tried and you spoke to us on here and still no joy. If you got it on ebay or its too much hassle to take back.. Get a new nut first.. Then if all else fails a new tuner for that one sting?

 

OR maybe even email Gibson customer service and see what they suggest.

Yes, got that he tried the sauce. But now that he knows better to check string binding, he may be able to make it work. (Maybe not).

 

Tuning peg? No. The nut has already failed the test.

 

Changing the nut isn't a bad idea in itself, but what makes a nut work well or not work well is how it's cut. So if a guy can replace a nut and cut/file the slots properly, then he can fix the one that's on there now a lot easier.

 

Common problem. Easy fix.

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Yes, got that he tried the sauce. But now that he knows better to check string binding, he may be able to make it work. (Maybe not).

 

Tuning peg? No. The nut has already failed the test.

 

Changing the nut isn't a bad idea in itself, but what makes a nut work well or not work well is how it's cut. So if a guy can replace a nut and cut/file the slots properly, then he can fix the one that's on there now a lot easier.

 

Common problem. Easy fix.

That's whats great about the Tusq nuts.. they come pre-slotted so you just literally replace it and re-string.. very easy for anyone to do...

 

Cutting a slot yourself takes the right tools that are quite expensive for just a one time job and more importantly take a small amount of experience to do properly...

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That's whats great about the Tusq nuts.. they come pre-slotted so you just literally replace it and re-string.. very easy for anyone to do...

 

Cutting a slot yourself takes the right tools that are quite expensive for just a one time job and more importantly take a small amount of experience to do properly...

True.

 

The irony is that in gaining the experience, the practice, you end up gaining experience swapping nuts as well.

 

Having said that, I don't think removing nuts is good for an inexperienced guy to do, especially on a Gibson. Not that it's harder, but it can hurt more when you take a little more finish, or a little chunk of wood.

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True.

 

The irony is that in gaining the experience, the practice, you end up gaining experience swapping nuts as well.

 

Having said that, I don't think removing nuts is good for an inexperienced guy to do, especially on a Gibson. Not that it's harder, but it can hurt more when you take a little more finish, or a little chunk of wood.

Well hopefully its not glued in that much or it can do that yes... lol but what ever he does, if he does it himself will be good experience.. And as we all know with guitars, even when doing something as simple as changing strings you can EASILY cause damage if you just go at it like a bull in a china shop.. dropping tools on the body, letting the tailpiece fall off and scratch the body, scratching the headstock etc etc...

 

As with that it all just takes a tiny amount of patience taking the time to do things properly.. maybe learning a couple of simple techniques off youtube or something.

 

But its all part of the fun.. Isnt it? ;)

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There is your answer.

 

See above post, and try some lube and see if you can't get it to stop.

 

If that does work well enough, take it to your "guy" (I reckon you have one, being as you mentioned having a set-up done). The nut could use a little filing to eliminate the binding.

 

 

Okay. Just for kicks I swapped the G tuning machine with the high E tuning machine. The G is still pops out of tune. I am not sure about filing the nut. I don't feel comfortable doing that as of yet. I will take it to the luthier that set it up and let him deal with it.

 

Thanks for your help and suggestions. I really like this guitar. But this is driving me crazy! This is why I love playing my bass. I could knock a hole in the wall with it and it will still be in tune.

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I believe the nuts are cut for a 10 gauge set and I've heard recently that newer ones are cut for 9's. If you're using strings heavier than tens, there could be a serious binding problem and the nut would have to be cut to accommodate. Even with a proper matching nut, I find lighter gauge strings to be less binding. I bend whole notes and binding is a deal breaker. Try a lighter gauge set just for a test to see if that's the problem.

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I believe the nuts are cut for a 10 gauge set and I've heard recently that newer ones are cut for 9's. If you're using strings heavier than tens, there could be a serious binding problem and the nut would have to be cut to accommodate. Even with a proper matching nut, I find lighter gauge strings to be less binding. I bend whole notes and binding is a deal breaker. Try a lighter gauge set just for a test to see if that's the problem.

 

I have 10's on it right now. I may try your suggestion.

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Hello!

 

If the nut sticking is the issue, then changing string gauges will not make any difference.

 

The string is sticking in the nut slot, because - past beyond the nut - it changes angle twice. Once to follow the headstock's plane, twice: as it turns towards the tuning posts.

 

It needs to be cut properly and lubed.

 

Cheers... Bence

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I took a picture of the nut and the G slot. I am including it along with an image of the B.

Digital pics play tricks (that kinda rhymes, happens sometimes), but it sure looks to me like there is some funk going on there with the G string slot.

 

It just LOOKS like it is binding. Again, can't say for sure if what is seen in the pics is what is happening.

 

Might also add, if this is the way the strings are going across the nut, it isn't what I would call a "properly" cut nut.

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Digital pics play tricks (that kinda rhymes, happens sometimes), but it sure looks to me like there is some funk going on there with the G string slot.

 

It just LOOKS like it is binding. Again, can't say for sure if what is seen in the pics is what is happening.

 

Might also add, if this is the way the strings are going across the nut, it isn't what I would call a "properly" cut nut.

 

I agree with you on both. It appears there is what almost looks like a sliver right in the middle that may be causing it. It's one of the prices of buying their bottom of the line products. I am going to have a new nut professionally created for it next week to see if that will help.

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I agree with you on both. It appears there is what almost looks like a sliver right in the middle that may be causing it. It's one of the prices of buying their bottom of the line products. I am going to have a new nut professionally created for it next week to see if that will help.

Yeah that nut doesn't look too healthy.. But hard to tell from pictures sometimes...

 

A good nut should be cut straight at on the fretboard side and then a small slope down the back towards the headstock.. And the strings ideally should be like half sat in the slot and half above (ish) and obviously be thick enough to seat the string properly with a rounded seat so the string sits flat on the nut. Really in a way you almost want the least amount of full contact possible with the nut but enough to keep it from pinging out if you want to bend a string (or you strum REALLY hard) :)

 

Like so

DSC_1349_zpsn1u5aro8.jpg

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