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Truss rod adjustment


Zippydog

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Hello, I need some acoustic maintenance instructions.

I just got an older D-500M Masterbilt.

I have been playing it and noticed that the action is high.

To a point where it is hard to play if you can imagine it.

I went to.my local Guitar Center and played a new Masterbilt where the action was set much lower and it played very nicely.

So obviously I need to lower.

Is there a "suggested" string height reccommendation to use as a guide only?

Also, I haven't removed the TR cover yet. Will I need an allen key that goes in the truss rod nut or a hex head wrench that will go over the nut?

What size wrench or key is needed?

Lastly, will I need to lower the saddle by trimming off some material or will just the truss rod adjustment take care of business?

Thanks and look forward to your advice.

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Hello, I need some acoustic maintenance instructions.

I just got an older D-500M Masterbilt.

I have been playing it and noticed that the action is high.

To a point where it is hard to play if you can imagine it.

I went to.my local Guitar Center and played a new Masterbilt where the action was set much lower and it played very nicely.

So obviously I need to lower.

Is there a "suggested" string height reccommendation to use as a guide only?

Also, I haven't removed the TR cover yet. Will I need an allen key that goes in the truss rod nut or a hex head wrench that will go over the nut?

What size wrench or key is needed?

Lastly, will I need to lower the saddle by trimming off some material or will just the truss rod adjustment take care of business?

Thanks and look forward to your advice.

 

Well, this is just me, but I'd take it to a pro. Setup is a whole-guitar process. Tweaking one thing affects the others. Is the neck straight or ? How's the top geometry? Your intonation OK? It might cost a few 20s, but it's worth having a sweet-playing guitar!

 

Or you could try it yourself. [scared]

 

[biggrin]

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Well, this is just me, but I'd take it to a pro. Setup is a whole-guitar process. Tweaking one thing affects the others. Is the neck straight or ? How's the top geometry? Your intonation OK? It might cost a few 20s, but it's worth having a sweet-playing guitar!

 

Or you could try it yourself. [scared]

 

[biggrin]

 

The neck is realitively straight with just a slight bit of relief.

I'm not too worried about attempting the adjustment.

Do you happen to know the correct size of the tool as I have to purchase one.

Thanks

Zip

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The neck is realitively straight with just a slight bit of relief.

I'm not too worried about attempting the adjustment.

Do you happen to know the correct size of the tool as I have to purchase one.

Thanks

Zip

 

should be 4mm but if the neck is straight with a little bit of relief; that's where you want it. if the action is too high, you may want to try removing the saddle and sanding the bottom to a desirable height.

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Yes that makes sense.

My question is how to calculate how much to remove.

I'm trying to imagine taking a little off, re-stringing testing, removing a little more re-string test etc., etc.

If I wanted to lower let's say a 16th. of an inch, do you remove a 16th of an inch?

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Yes that makes sense.

My question is how to calculate how much to remove.

I'm trying to imagine taking a little off, re-stringing testing, removing a little more re-string test etc., etc.

If I wanted to lower let's say a 16th. of an inch, do you remove a 16th of an inch?

 

First things first, is your used? If so, pull your saddle and see if it may have been shimmed. Simply removing any possible shims could solve your problem.

 

For allen wrenches, head to your local hardware store and pick up a set. I have a set of 10 different sizes I bought for well under ten dollars and they work for Epiphones, Fenders Bridges and saddles as well as truss rods) and who knows what else.

 

And yeah, I've done the sand a little, replace strings, sand a little more, replace strings etc. technique. It takes time, but it's not impossible.

 

Good luck.

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Yes that makes sense.

My question is how to calculate how much to remove.

I'm trying to imagine taking a little off, re-stringing testing, removing a little more re-string test etc., etc.

If I wanted to lower let's say a 16th. of an inch, do you remove a 16th of an inch?

 

capo the strings about half way down the neck then loosen them enough to pull the saddle out without removing the strings.

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You need to get the neck roughly where it needs to be first. It depends what and how you play. Hard strumming may benefit from a slight bend to prevent buzzing. I usually start like that and gradually straighten it to my liking.

 

When I sand a saddle I put a strip of masking tape across it just about where I want to sand down to. I do a small amount(about 1mm) then replace it and try it. Make sure the bottom of the saddle is perfectly flat and not on a slant as that will cause the saddle to lean forward or back. It needs to be upright. I start with 600 grade then finish off with 800 or finer. Don't go too low as the break angle will be too shallow and that will affect the tone and you could get some buzzing. As I said earlier it will often depend on what and how you play. If you are a gentle player then you can get away with a lower action than a heavier player.

 

Take a good look at the original saddle first as it may be of poor quality. I found this on my EJ-200 and got a decent one made and then sanded that down. At least that way if I screwed it up I still have the original.

 

I love the smell of burning bone!!!

 

Bob

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