Zippydog Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 Hello, I need some acoustic maintenance instructions. I just got an older D-500M Masterbilt. I have been playing it and noticed that the action is high. To a point where it is hard to play if you can imagine it. I went to.my local Guitar Center and played a new Masterbilt where the action was set much lower and it played very nicely. So obviously I need to lower. Is there a "suggested" string height reccommendation to use as a guide only? Also, I haven't removed the TR cover yet. Will I need an allen key that goes in the truss rod nut or a hex head wrench that will go over the nut? What size wrench or key is needed? Lastly, will I need to lower the saddle by trimming off some material or will just the truss rod adjustment take care of business? Thanks and look forward to your advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Hello, I need some acoustic maintenance instructions. I just got an older D-500M Masterbilt. I have been playing it and noticed that the action is high. To a point where it is hard to play if you can imagine it. I went to.my local Guitar Center and played a new Masterbilt where the action was set much lower and it played very nicely. So obviously I need to lower. Is there a "suggested" string height reccommendation to use as a guide only? Also, I haven't removed the TR cover yet. Will I need an allen key that goes in the truss rod nut or a hex head wrench that will go over the nut? What size wrench or key is needed? Lastly, will I need to lower the saddle by trimming off some material or will just the truss rod adjustment take care of business? Thanks and look forward to your advice. Well, this is just me, but I'd take it to a pro. Setup is a whole-guitar process. Tweaking one thing affects the others. Is the neck straight or ? How's the top geometry? Your intonation OK? It might cost a few 20s, but it's worth having a sweet-playing guitar! Or you could try it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippydog Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Well, this is just me, but I'd take it to a pro. Setup is a whole-guitar process. Tweaking one thing affects the others. Is the neck straight or ? How's the top geometry? Your intonation OK? It might cost a few 20s, but it's worth having a sweet-playing guitar! Or you could try it yourself. The neck is realitively straight with just a slight bit of relief. I'm not too worried about attempting the adjustment. Do you happen to know the correct size of the tool as I have to purchase one. Thanks Zip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPS1976 Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 The neck is realitively straight with just a slight bit of relief. I'm not too worried about attempting the adjustment. Do you happen to know the correct size of the tool as I have to purchase one. Thanks Zip should be 4mm but if the neck is straight with a little bit of relief; that's where you want it. if the action is too high, you may want to try removing the saddle and sanding the bottom to a desirable height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippydog Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Yes that makes sense. My question is how to calculate how much to remove. I'm trying to imagine taking a little off, re-stringing testing, removing a little more re-string test etc., etc. If I wanted to lower let's say a 16th. of an inch, do you remove a 16th of an inch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fromnabulax Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Yes that makes sense. My question is how to calculate how much to remove. I'm trying to imagine taking a little off, re-stringing testing, removing a little more re-string test etc., etc. If I wanted to lower let's say a 16th. of an inch, do you remove a 16th of an inch? First things first, is your used? If so, pull your saddle and see if it may have been shimmed. Simply removing any possible shims could solve your problem. For allen wrenches, head to your local hardware store and pick up a set. I have a set of 10 different sizes I bought for well under ten dollars and they work for Epiphones, Fenders Bridges and saddles as well as truss rods) and who knows what else. And yeah, I've done the sand a little, replace strings, sand a little more, replace strings etc. technique. It takes time, but it's not impossible. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPS1976 Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Yes that makes sense. My question is how to calculate how much to remove. I'm trying to imagine taking a little off, re-stringing testing, removing a little more re-string test etc., etc. If I wanted to lower let's say a 16th. of an inch, do you remove a 16th of an inch? capo the strings about half way down the neck then loosen them enough to pull the saddle out without removing the strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Isaac Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 You need to get the neck roughly where it needs to be first. It depends what and how you play. Hard strumming may benefit from a slight bend to prevent buzzing. I usually start like that and gradually straighten it to my liking. When I sand a saddle I put a strip of masking tape across it just about where I want to sand down to. I do a small amount(about 1mm) then replace it and try it. Make sure the bottom of the saddle is perfectly flat and not on a slant as that will cause the saddle to lean forward or back. It needs to be upright. I start with 600 grade then finish off with 800 or finer. Don't go too low as the break angle will be too shallow and that will affect the tone and you could get some buzzing. As I said earlier it will often depend on what and how you play. If you are a gentle player then you can get away with a lower action than a heavier player. Take a good look at the original saddle first as it may be of poor quality. I found this on my EJ-200 and got a decent one made and then sanded that down. At least that way if I screwed it up I still have the original. I love the smell of burning bone!!! Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippydog Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Thank you for the tips. Good stuff here. It's used. I will definately check for shims. Never looked when I replaced the strings. How in the heck do you adjust intonation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 How in the heck do you adjust intonation? Here's a good tutorial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippydog Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Here's a good tutorial. Didn't see a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPS1976 Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Didn't see a link? click the word "here" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippydog Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Here's a good tutorial. Thanks. For some strange reason, the hyperlink was not active on my phone but was on my iPad. I will read up. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPS1976 Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Thanks. For some strange reason, the hyperlink was not active on my phone but was on my iPad. I will read up. Cheers. stupid phones! let us know how it works out...good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.