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ABR-1 Vs Epi Bridge


Zentar

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I installed an ABR1 bridge on a Casino today and I am curious if anyone thinks there is more arch on the Epi bridge than the ABR1 bridge? The saddles should align the strings with the same arch(radius-curve?) as the fret board. I am debating if the Epi bridge actually let's me achieve a lower action than the ABR1 on the middle strings. I've got to find a way to measure if the arch is the same between these two bridges.

I may even put the Epi bridge back on the Casino.

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I'll answer my own question.

 

The ABR-1 does not match with the Casino fret board arch. My guess or assumption is that the Chinese made Casinos have a slightly more rounded top radius fret board than any of the Gibsons or the Jap made Elitist.

 

Do not put an ABR-1 bridge on your Casino.

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I thought that the Casino came stock with an ABR-1 bridge no?

Yes, they generally do, unless something has recently changed.

 

I currently own a 2009 Elitist & a 2011 50th Anniversay '61, and used to own a 2004 Korean Peerless. They all came stock with an ABR-1 style bridge > but of course they're all metric copies of a Gibson ABR-1.

 

Aside from original Kalamazoo Casinos, only the AIUSA version, with body by Terada-Japan & hardware by Gibson-Nashville, would come stock with a Gibson ABR-1.

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The Chinese Casinos have a "Tone-o-matic" bridge. Gibson makes the "Tune-o-matic" bridge.

The only advantage the Gibby bridge has is it has more width for the saddles to move when intonating. If

your Epi has no issues when intonating you don't need an ABR1 Tune-o-matic bridge. The Epi is just as good.

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Tune-O-Matic is a generic term for the Gibson ABR-1 and its descendants.

 

You are describing the difference between an ABR-1 and a BR-030 "Nashville." Epis generally come with a metric version of the ABR-1, with some exceptions. Gibsons generally come with Nashville bridges post-1975, but some models still use the ABR-1.

 

Gibson and Epiphone guitars generally have 12" fretboard radii. Some Epis will have a 14" radius. Use gauges to be sure. The saddle slots should be cut accordingly, but the most extreme difference between a 12" radius and a 14" radius is only about .005". ABR-1 bridges, Epi or Gibson, and Gibson Nashville bridges will all have 12" radius by default. Some aftermarket bridges will have a 14" radius.

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Eric go buy an ABR1 for your Casino, notch the saddles and install it on the guitar. Then set the action and tell us what happens.

 

The issue is not the bridge itself because the Epi bridge and ABR1 bridge are both perfectly flat. The issue is the saddle radius.

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Well, since, in that situation, I'd have been smart enough to do what a competent luthier does and compensated the depth of the saddle slots to match the fretboard radius, which I'd have previously measured with a gauge, absolutely nothing but smooth playing would happen. Please feel free to reread my post, but this time with your eyes open - and also feel free to spell my name right, to make it easy, it's written right on each of my posts.

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What are you, 14? These things don't magically change because you're doing work on a specific submodel of guitar. But whatever - you still know absolutely nothing, and you're still a tool. Or, more likely, a troll.

 

Eric this is the third thread I've seen you trying to present yourself as having experience with a specific repair when in fact you had no prior experience at all. You are making things up.

And yes I am 14 back in 1971.

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Uff da. People like you are why I end up with these "how the hell did this happen?" wrecks in the first place.

 

It's pretty clear you have no concept of how guitars function, mechanically. That would be no problem if you didn't have zero willingness to learn because you're caught up on general repairs being completely different on different guitars - they're not. Have fun trying to sort your problem out.

 

By the by, I've done plenty of work on a Riviera P93, if you absolutely have to have experience with a specific guitar family - but, of course, in your mind, the extra pickup makes the bridge function completely differently, and the different name and trim make the same fretboard radius a difference of night and day!

 

"Wait, folks, you can't tell me how to tune a guitar unless you've tuned this specific type of guitar - the same Rotomatics works differently on it than they do on your SG!"

 

I'll go out to FlightSafety and get myself an "Epiphone Casino Type Rating" next week, will that be good enough for the likes of you?

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Uff da. People like you are why I end up with these "how the hell did this happen?" wrecks in the first place.

 

It's pretty clear you have no concept of how guitars function, mechanically. That would be no problem if you didn't have zero willingness to learn because you're caught up on general repairs being completely different on different guitars - they're not. Have fun trying to sort your problem out.

 

By the by, I've done plenty of work on a Riviera P93, if you absolutely have to have experience with a specific guitar family - but, of course, in your mind, the extra pickup makes the bridge function completely differently, and the different name and trim make the same fretboard radius a difference of night and day!

 

"Wait, folks, you can't tell me how to tune a guitar unless you've tuned this specific type of guitar - the same Rotomatics works differently on it than they do on your SG!"

 

I'll go out to FlightSafety and get myself an "Epiphone Casino Type Rating" next week, will that be good enough for the likes of you?

 

Het Eric, what size reemer do you think I need to buy to change a lightbulb?

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Oh, for the love of feck, mate, stop trying to be witty.

 

Look, it's clear that I'm not articulating the way to attack this problem in a way that resonates with you. When I have time, later on today, I'll try to come up with a pictoral to show you what I'm talking about and why the exact model of guitar doesn't matter, and then we can get you on your way to setting up the guitar as you like. Sound fair?

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