Lennon Revolution Casino questions

[JJT]

Hey all, jus recently bought a Lennon revolution casino number 1271. It is in good condition. When I reviewed it in its entirety I found a few things that I need advice on.

First the headatock logo. It has a ghost outline that has a spin off on the second P.

Second the number in the inside on the white Lemmon label is written in blue ink.

My cert is signed by Scott Aisenbrey. I see a lot of other certs signed by someone else.

Other then that the guitar checks out, fret binding, truss rod, neck, serial number, finish, etc.

the guita is in very good but used condition. The guy must have sweat a lot too cuz by the part where you would rest you arm it's starting to have small cracks. Has anyone had this happen? Is it a huge deal?

 

 

[LPS1976]

can you post a pic of the label? I wouldn't worry too much about the cracks...they're likely finish cracks that will happen with age. these are great guitars but beware as they are pretty delicate around the splice joint on the neck and can't really handle a fall too well. Scott Aisenbrey is the director of operations at Epiphone so it's legit.

[JJT]

 

Thanks for the reply.

Anything I can do about the cracks?

[JJT]

Any opinions about the headstock logo?

[charlie brown]

I suspect, that Gibson/Epiphone would classify that, basically, as a "finish" problem, which is not covered by warranty.

But, you can't worry about that, anyway, because you're not the original owner. That "Ghosting" around the logo is

pretty common. Especially, after a few years, in anything but pristine, perfect climate/humidity/temperature conditions.

Your's seems in Good condition, but well used, by your description, and what few photos you've offered.

 

As to the Certificate signature...that would be common, to have whatever inspector was on that duty, at the time.

You could check with Gibson, about the serial number, if you're concerned about it not being "genuine." And/or

send them detailed photos, of the entire guitar.

 

If you bought it, from Craig's List, or E-bay, then there's more a chance of it being "fake," than if you bought it

from an authorized Gibson/Epiphone dealer. But, most GOOD E-bay sellers, are honest, in my experience. I have NO

experience with Craig's list, at all. So...???

 

Cheers, and good luck!

 

CB

[JJT]

Thanks Charlie B! It checks out. It's genuine jus wanted to see if these differences were common. The amount of wear worn in feelin this guitar has is amazing. It's like a great pair of Levi's. It feels like an original 60s casino. I played an original in my local store in NYC and this is the closet i can't get to an original. The guitar also has a great story and I got it from a good eBay seller. Gonna be a save for life kinda guitar

[JJT]

I will post more pics soon

[LPS1976]

Thanks Charlie B! It checks out. It's genuine jus wanted to see if these differences were common. The amount of wear worn in feelin this guitar has is amazing. It's like a great pair of Levi's. It feels like an original 60s casino. I played an original in my local store in NYC and this is the closet i can't get to an original. The guitar also has a great story and I got it from a good eBay seller. Gonna be a save for life kinda guitar

 

well, now you have to tell the story!

[JJT]

Without giving away all the details this casino was owned by a great musician who passed away. He left the guitar to his daughter who sold it to me. It was hard to let it go for her and she has been great about it and in constant contact. This guitar has amazing vibes and resonates like no other. Like I said earlier on it truly feels like a 60's casino. I like be it. Jus wanted to get a second opinion about he small details. Thanks again to. Everyone for their inputs

[Zentar]

The screw heads on the tail piece have been Bubba'd and there are cracks near the tail piece so possibly the tail piece was replaced after the guitar being dropped. Just saying....

 

However, those look like cracks from finish drying or surface wood drying unevenly. They don't look like cracks from being dropped. I have a Fender with similar cracks that have remained the same for years.

Go play the heck out of it and ignore the character flaws.

 

Go look at Willie Nelson's guitar.

[charlie brown]

Agreed. "Character flaws," are just part of any great guitar's "mojo!" Enjoy it!!

 

CB

[JJT]

I do have a question about the bridge posts. They're slightly angled in as if the bridge is the incorrect size for the posts. Is this normal? I worry that the angle will cause it to break over time.

 

[Zentar]

Take the basic design of a guitar and work with that. Don't compare a Fender bridge to a Gibson for example. The guitar designs of the 20th century are what made the best music ever recorded. Look at a violin or a Cello: they are virtually unchanged from 250 years ago. You will notice they both have rather steep string angles. Those designs produce the best Classical music ever.

 

The Gibson Les Paul let's you determine the string angle over the bridge. Any angle within that adjustment range is proper. The Casino uses a different tailpiece. It uses a floating tailpiece. Notice how easily it moves when you touch it.

It is very possible that is the best design ever used on a guitar yet if you look at a hundred Casinos there is a range of neck angles. Some greater than others but all are within a certain range. Thus you see different string angles over the bridge.

[JJT]

My apologies for the misinformation. I was talking about the adjustable posts that go through the ABR bridge. they have two wheels on it.. sorry if I am not using the correct terms. usually they sit up straight and the bridge holes line up and the pegs go right in. on mine its slightly angled. make sense?

[stein]

I do have a question about the bridge posts. They're slightly angled in as if the bridge is the incorrect size for the posts. Is this normal? I worry that the angle will cause it to break over time.

 

Overall, you seem very anal about this guitar. NOTHING wrong with that, and I will oblige with an anal answer.

 

Technically, this is considered a hollow-body guitar, and thus, the top could possibly move or change over time. the neck joint could also possibly change as well.

 

Besides these realities, the guitar could also be built crooked, not perfectly straight. The top could be carved (in this case, 'pressed') higher on one side than the other. The neck could be slightly skewed.

 

These are NOT a problem, and part on the design. It's made to be adjustable, not only for imperfections in the building of it, but for imperfections caused over time. So, over time, you might make adjustments.

 

Eventually, you may need a neck reset, but chances are 99.9999987 you won't ever need that. And IF you ever did, it would be years down the road, and you would also have had at least 3 sets of frets replaced, the fingerboard maybe shaved a little, a new bridge, be on your 3rd or forth set of tuners. Not to mention, there might not be much finish left on some spots of the guitar.

[JJT]

Overall, you seem very anal about this guitar. NOTHING wrong with that, and I will oblige with an anal answer.

 

Technically, this is considered a hollow-body guitar, and thus, the top could possibly move or change over time. the neck joint could also possibly change as well.

 

Besides these realities, the guitar could also be built crooked, not perfectly straight. The top could be carved (in this case, 'pressed') higher on one side than the other. The neck could be slightly skewed.

 

These are NOT a problem, and part on the design. It's made to be adjustable, not only for imperfections in the building of it, but for imperfections caused over time. So, over time, you might make adjustments.

 

Eventually, you may need a neck reset, but chances are 99.9999987 you won't ever need that. And IF you ever did, it would be years down the road, and you would also have had at least 3 sets of frets replaced, the fingerboard maybe shaved a little, a new bridge, be on your 3rd or forth set of tuners. Not to mention, there might not be much finish left on some spots of the guitar.

 

I am definitely OCD about my guitars hahaha. I am crazy! if this were a strat I would have zero cares. strats are hard a$$ guitars because of their construction. Hollow bodies and acoustics jus make me eh! nervous.

thank you for the great reply!

[Zentar]

OK I think I see it now. Quite weird because if the poles were leaning outwars that would be a more common archtop problem.

It looks like the pole holes were drilled improperly. Both appear improperly drilled as if having been modded.

 

You could plug those drill holes and redril them correctly. Pull the bridge off and see what is wrong. Is there evidence of having been drilled twice previously?

 

That doesn't look like an expensive problem if you have a little wood work and gluing experience and a drill press.

A shade tree luthier could fix that if they aren't newbies..It wouldn't have to be a pretty plug because the pole wheel should cover up the plug evidence

 

Just make sure you think out the entire procedure beforehand. A dowel will be a good plug.

That may just need a 10mm dowel. Pine would work fine. Don't try to fill it up ith filler and drill the filler. Lord don't do that.

 

BTW those poles can be pulled out easily. They aren't glued or screwed in. They fit in like the barrels on tuners through the headstock.Sometimes you may need two screw drivers to pry out the poles but it doesnt take any muscle to do that.

 

Just make sure that isn't an optical illusion caused by the arching top. Maybe those two poles really are perfectly parallel and you're being fooled by the illusion.

[stein]

OK I think I see it now. Quite weird because if the poles were leaning outwars that would be a more common archtop problem.

It looks like the pole holes were drilled improperly. Both appear improperly drilled as if having been modded.

 

You could plug those drill holes and redril them correctly. Pull the bridge off and see what is wrong. Is there evidence of having been drilled twice previously?

 

That doesn't look like an expensive problem if you have a little wood work and gluing experience and a drill press.

A shade tree luthier could fix that if they aren't newbies..It wouldn't have to be a pretty plug because the pole wheel should cover up the plug evidence

 

Just make sure you think out the entire procedure beforehand. A dowel will be a good plug.

That may just need a 10mm dowel. Pine would work fine. Don't try to fill it up ith filler and drill the filler. Lord don't do that.

 

BTW those poles can be pulled out easily. They aren't glued or screwed in. They fit in like the barrels on tuners through the headstock.Sometimes you may need two screw drivers to pry out the poles but it doesnt take any muscle to do that.

 

Just make sure that isn't an optical illusion caused by the arching top. Maybe those two poles really are perfectly parallel and you're being fooled by the illusion.

No. Do NOT do any of this.

 

From what I can see, it looks fine. It does NOT look like the poles are drilled wrong in these photos.

 

IF YOU SUSPECT A PROBLEM, TAKE IT TO A LUTHIER who is QUALIFIED.

 

Do NOT do any of what is suggested here. please.

 

A good lesson for us all to take from this, is not to give or take advice from a few photos over the net that suggest "repairs" that would alter and possibly DAMAGE a perfectly fine guitar.

 

It IS a nice guitar, too.

[brad1]

 

It looks like the pole holes were drilled improperly. Both appear improperly drilled as if having been modded.

 

How could you possibly come to that conclusion looking at those pics??

 

No. Do NOT do any of this.

 

From what I can see, it looks fine. It does NOT look like the poles are drilled wrong in these photos.

 

IF YOU SUSPECT A PROBLEM, TAKE IT TO A LUTHIER who is QUALIFIED.

 

Do NOT do any of what is suggested here. please.

 

A

 

Yeah, listen to Stein. He knows what he's talking about.

[Zentar]

How could you possibly come to that conclusion looking at those pics??

 

 

 

Yeah, listen to Stein. He knows what he's talking about.

 

I'm not judging by the pics. I'm judging by the diagram he drew. The poles are leaning in the diagram.

 

I'm sure JJT is a smart guy and knows if he can fix the issue or take it to a Luthier. However I myself have used Luthiers twice in the last 35 years which is why I do all my work myself now. It would be good advice to use a Luthier if you knew a good one. There are a lot of very bad Luthiers out there. there is really not much on a guitar that a smart guy can't fix himself. Guitars are not that complicated. If you've had experience doing professional technical and mechanical work in other fields you should be able to fix anything that goes wrong with a guitar.

 

The main requirement needed to be able to fix a guitar is this: "do you care the guitar?".

Is that guitar important to you?

[stein]

OK I think I see it now. Quite weird because if the poles were leaning outwars that would be a more common archtop problem.

It looks like the pole holes were drilled improperly. Both appear improperly drilled as if having been modded.

 

You could plug those drill holes and redril them correctly. Pull the bridge off and see what is wrong. Is there evidence of having been drilled twice previously?

 

That doesn't look like an expensive problem if you have a little wood work and gluing experience and a drill press.

A shade tree luthier could fix that if they aren't newbies..It wouldn't have to be a pretty plug because the pole wheel should cover up the plug evidence

 

Just make sure you think out the entire procedure beforehand. A dowel will be a good plug.

That may just need a 10mm dowel. Pine would work fine. Don't try to fill it up ith filler and drill the filler. Lord don't do that.

 

BTW those poles can be pulled out easily. They aren't glued or screwed in. They fit in like the barrels on tuners through the headstock.Sometimes you may need two screw drivers to pry out the poles but it doesnt take any muscle to do that.

 

Just make sure that isn't an optical illusion caused by the arching top. Maybe those two poles really are perfectly parallel and you're being fooled by the illusion.

 

 

How could you possibly come to that conclusion looking at those pics??

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm not judging by the pics. I'm judging by the diagram he drew. The poles are leaning in the diagram.

 

I'm sure JJT is a smart guy and knows if he can fix the issue or take it to a Luthier. However I myself have used Luthiers twice in the last 35 years which is why I do all my work myself now. It would be good advice to use a Luthier if you knew a good one. There are a lot of very bad Luthiers out there. there is really not much on a guitar that a smart guy can't fix himself. Guitars are not that complicated. If you've had experience doing professional technical and mechanical work in other fields you should be able to fix anything that goes wrong with a guitar.

He may be smarter than all of us, but even so, you don't know if he might actually DO what you suggest or TRY to so what you suggest. That's the issue here.

 

There is a LOT wrong with your knowledge of how to "fix" this and your suggestion. You have missed a few VERY important steps, and if he had done what you suggest, chances are pretty good he would he would be to a competent luthier having his repair fixed, and with a de-valued guitar.

 

Truly, first two questions would be, "Does it intonate properly?" "Does it adjust properly?". If the answer is yes and yes, then it does NOT need anything.

 

IF a repair of what you suggest was to be done, the most important step would be WHERE DO YOU PLACE THE HOLES. If you have any experience with ABR bridges, you know the holes have to be EXACTLY in the right spot. There isn't a lot of variance in that for any TOM bridge, and less so for that particular bridge.

 

Without a gauge, or template, or KNOWLEDGE of where to place the holes, chances are very, very high you are going to get the bridge in the wrong place. If the poster here has not complained of intonation or not being able to get the height right, chances are close to 100% they are in the right place, and if he moves them, chances are 100% they will end up in the WRONG place. Then, he WILL be looking for a luthier.

 

Pine? really? A couple screwdrivers?

 

The methods and materiels you suggest in the post would likely cause damage, and the cost of fixing that damage would be more than what a luthier would charge to fix it in the first place, IF THE GUITAR NEEDED TO BE FIXED- WHICH IT DOESN'T!

 

And, THIS particular guitar is not for any "shadetree luthier" it's a desirable guitar, worth good money. Just the de-valuation of having dowels vs having none in a JL Casino would buy you a "standard" MIC Casino.

[Zentar]

You drink too much coffee.

[Zentar]

removing bridge pole pieces on Casinos

 

1 Most will come out by simply pulling on them with your fingers. If not then put tape beside the poles and use a lever to pry them out lightly.(a screw driver is a lever). You can probably use a credit card and stick it under the lip on the pole piece and pry it loose.

[stein]

You drink too much coffee.

Well, at least you are right about ONE thing.

[stein]

removing bridge pole pieces on Casinos

 

1 Most will come out by simply pulling on them with your fingers. If not then put tape beside the poles and use a lever to pry them out lightly.(a screw driver is a lever). You can probably use a credit card and stick it under the lip on the pole piece and pry it loose.

I think you are missing the point by a country mile.

 

WHY would you take them out in the first place?

 

WHY are you suggesting doing ANYTHING to a nice guitar?

 

WHY are you persistent in suggesting ideas from a place of inexperience, lack of knowledge, rather than maybe taking som of it in?

 

Not trying to burst your bubble here, and I admire your interest, (stay interested, it's cool), but please, draw the line when it comes to doing damage to one of your's, or another's guitar.