btoth76 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hello. Linseed oil is an ingredient of some finishes, but doesn't have the properties of a finish in it's natural form. It's - kind of a - thinner of paints, a carrier material. Raw, unbleached, cold-pressed linseed oil is not permanent - just like lemon oil vanishes/outgasses from the fretboard by heat and abrassion. Unless physics and chemistry works differently on my guitars. Yes, these are different chemical forms of the same oil for different usage. For example, mixing raw linseed oil with different stains (leather dye) and boiling them together makes a good darkening compound that lasts long. Bence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt23 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Some good info here,thanks! but my head is spinning on which way to go. A few days ago I bought a new Taylor acoustic with an Ebony fretboard, and in the case candy info, Taylor recommends applying boiled linseed oil at every string change after a 0000 Steelwool fret rubdown. I didn't know about linseed oil so I thought I'd look into it. For decades, I've used the Kyser Dr. Stringfellow lemon oil on my Martin and Epi Sheraton, both Rosewood boards and I like how it makes the fretboards darker. But now I'm thinking about using the linseed on the Taylor (and maybe on my new Les Paul also). I think it may come down to am I willing to be fastidious in applying it regularly to keep the fretboard darker. Bence, may I ask why do you use umboiled linseed oil versus boiled? And do you get at a hardware store? Thanks! Adding to the discussion, I found this at the TaylorGuitars website: Fretboard Oil Ask Bob Friday, March 29, 2013 By: Bob Taylor Question: On guitar chat forums people rave about the merits of using lemon oil to clean their guitar fretboards. Other people respond by saying that lemon oil is actually bad for the guitar. Can you shed some light on this? -- Claudio R. Montreal, Canada Answer: Claudio, I’d have no worries about using lemon oil on my fretboard. It’s safe. Use it only on the unfinished wood like the fretboard and bridge. The wood can dry out over time, and an oil like this, or linseed oil, or even mineral oil, can protect the wood and beautify it as well. Don’t overdo it. Once a fretboard has been oiled a few times, you can slow down the frequency. The nice thing about lemon oil is that it cleans while it oils, so it won’t build up as easily, but be sparing. I don’t think your fretboard will need oiling more than twice a year, and eventually, once a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hello Matt. Master luthier Dan Erlewine often seen using linseed oil in His books and demo videos. I totally trust Him - He is a very experienced craftsman. One thing surprises me in Bob Taylor's reply. The cleaning properties of lemon oil. The products sold in guitar stores as "lemon oil" are mineral oils with lemon scent. Not real lemon oil - which is pressed from lemon peel. How mineral oil could clean wooden surfaces? Bence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hello again! I just noticed, I forgot to answer Your question. "Bence, may I ask why do you use umboiled linseed oil versus boiled? And do you get at a hardware store?" Again, I read it in Dan Erlewine's book. He uses raw, cold-pressed linseed oil. Here, in Hungary (Europe) it's sold in household care stores. Bence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt23 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hello Matt. Master luthier Dan Erlewine often seen using linseed oil in His books and demo videos. I totally trust Him - He is a very experienced craftsman. One thing surprises me in Bob Taylor's reply. The cleaning properties of lemon oil. The products sold in guitar stores as "lemon oil" are mineral oils with lemon scent. Not real lemon oil - which is pressed from lemon peel. How mineral oil could clean wooden surfaces? Bence. Thanks, Bence, and good question - I don't know either. I just checked Gibson's website, and it says to use either lemon oil or linseed oil - lol. http://www.gibson.com/Support/Tech-Tips/Smooth-Frettin.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 The instructions in that link say: "6. Clean the fretboard with steel wool, rubbing across the board parallel to the frets.". That is done before the application of the lemon oil. As far as I am concerned, that means lemon oil is used for hydrating the previously cleaned fretboard. Bence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Hm. I forgot to shake the lemon oil bottle before I oiled the neck. Though I usually give it a shake every month or so, 'cos I read somewhere it could congeal in time. Do I need to oil the fretboard again? What sayeth the expertise? I usually oil anually. Edit: given that mineral oil is insoluble in water, it should be fine, shouldn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capmaster Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 The instructions in that link say: "6. Clean the fretboard with steel wool, rubbing across the board parallel to the frets.". That is done before the application of the lemon oil. As far as I am concerned, that means lemon oil is used for hydrating the previously cleaned fretboard. Bence. There are several things I never understood. Why use steel wool? I never did that to any fretboard although I heard and read this recommendation multiple times over the years. Cleaning the fretboard with a damp cloth, rubbing dry and waiting a few minutes will do everything it takes. To remove skin care products, vegetable oil that won't cure like e. g. Ballistol is the way to go and recommended by experts. No oil will ever "hydrate" a fingerboard - water would do this, but no fingerboard really calls for that. Any oil will grease the board, make it hydrophobic and prevent water from penetrating. This helps to protect the fingerboard from sweat. In my opinion and to my experience this is the very benefit of oiling fingerboards. Hm. I forgot to shake the lemon oil bottle before I oiled the neck. Though I usually give it a shake every month or so, 'cos I read somewhere it could congeal in time. Do I need to oil the fretboard again? What sayeth the expertise? I usually oil anually. Edit: given that mineral oil is insoluble in water, it should be fine, shouldn't it? You answered your question with your edit! I think it's all fine. Shaking bottles containing what is misleadingly called "lemon oil" will rather promote congealing. Some unsaturated hydrocarbons can be oxidized to viscous or solid epoxides. Usually all the ingredients are consolute and thus won't separate into aqueous and oily phases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Thanks, capmaster! Thought so, but no harm in asking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 There are several things I never understood. Why use steel wool? I never did that to any fretboard although I heard and read this recommendation multiple times over the years. Cleaning the fretboard with a damp cloth, rubbing dry and waiting a few minutes will do everything it takes. To remove skin care products, vegetable oil that won't cure like e. g. Ballistol is the way to go and recommended by experts. No oil will ever "hydrate" a fingerboard - water would do this, but no fingerboard really calls for that. Any oil will grease the board, make it hydrophobic and prevent water from penetrating. This helps to protect the fingerboard from sweat. In my opinion and to my experience this is the very benefit of oiling fingerboards. ... Steel wool or sanding paper on fretboard? I wouldn't use them either. Even in the thoughest cases, an old-fashioned diaper will do the job. As far as hydrating the fretboard is concerned: You are right, of course. You are the man of science, being very accurate using the proper terms. Shall I say "lubricating the fretboard surface", instead? Is it correct? Bence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 I'm assuming Granadillo and Grenadillo (2017 V specs spelling on gibson.com) is the exact same thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zentar Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 I'm assuming Granadillo and Grenadillo (2017 V specs spelling on gibson.com) is the exact same thing? OMG! Let's don't get into spelling and grammar. Or is it grammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capmaster Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Steel wool or sanding paper on fretboard? I wouldn't use them either. Even in the thoughest cases, an old-fashioned diaper will do the job. As far as hydrating the fretboard is concerned: You are right, of course. You are the man of science, being very accurate using the proper terms. Shall I say "lubricating the fretboard surface", instead? Is it correct? Bence. Sorry, I must have overlooked this topic for over seven months... To my guess it's just protection through hydrophobic and therefore water-repellent substances. I'm assuming Granadillo and Grenadillo (2017 V specs spelling on gibson.com) is the exact same thing? Through research I found out that they are timbers from different species. Granadillo is Dalbergia retusa, grenadillo is Dalbergia melanoxylon. Into the bargain there is also granadilla, timber from Dalbergia granadilla. Looks like the root of some Babylonian confusion. Anyway, I meanwhile switched to use of almond oil and jojoba wax, often incorrectly called jojoba oil since it's a liquid wax. Either can be used for lubrication and care of metal parts, too. Makers of woodwind instruments use almond oil for the entire instrument including leather parts. Jojoba wax won't change its odour for decades since it is 100% stable against oxygen up to over 150°C respectively 302°F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Oils that work for rosewood should work for grenadillo with an "e" as well, right? Zentar: hey, that was gonna be my next question! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capmaster Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Oils that work for rosewood should work for grenadillo with an "e" as well, right? ... I think so. Almond oil is widely used for the care of all components of clarinets, oboes and bassoons since a long time. Their bodies are commonly made of grenadillo with an "e", besides boxwood and ebony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Still use my Dunlop 65, but that should probably be all right then. Thanks, capmaster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimt Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I admit I saw an opportunity for mischief here. :) But... look at the logo embossed at the base. Strange! so what year would that container be with the dot above the I ? the gibson logo is a patented logo.. how they get away with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.