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Bought a nice 2008 R7 with a butchered controls cavity. How best to replace.


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Dear all,

 

Bought a nice 2008 R7 but unfortunately someone felt the need to replace the pots etc. How to I best replace these? What components are recommended to preserve authenticity?

 

Appreciate any feedback you can give,

 

Nikolaj

 

SzSWsBD.jpg

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That's really a good question, because by "authentic", does that mean what Gibson used in 2008 for that particular guitar, or what Gibson used in '57?

 

If I had to guess, what's in the pic is likely the original components except maybe the one pot that had to be replaced cause it got to much solder on it, and the guy changed the wiring from "60's" to "50's", and maybe decided also to change one of the caps to a value he thought would sound better, OR like the pot, had to replace it because the original one had it's leads cut too short or something.

 

From what few Gibby innards I have seen from that era, I don't think Gibson was particular about what caps they used, but small ceramic disk type was common. Also, I think 2008 pre-dates the imitation bumblebee they used eventually in later ones.

 

In other words, I think it's a pretty good shot figuring what's in there to make a good guess at what it had.

 

Besides that though, what Gibson used for reissues, what they use now, and everything in between can be a subject in itself. A good one, too.

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Thanks Stein,

 

I guess I mean what was used on a 2008 R7. Can you explain what you mean by 60'S to 50's? From other shots of stock setups I have seen this soldering job is a lot more messy but the caps could be stock as you say.

 

Nikolaj

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Thanks Stein,

 

I guess I mean what was used on a 2008 R7. Can you explain what you mean by 60'S to 50's? From other shots of stock setups I have seen this soldering job is a lot more messy but the caps could be stock as you say.

 

Nikolaj

"50's" vs "60's" has to do with how the controls work, and the wiring schematic itself. It's easily changed by moving wires around and soldering them to different places on the pots.

 

A short version of the differences, is that when in the middle switch position using both pickups, each volume control affects the whole guitar in the "50'" configuration, while the "60's" configuration allows each pickup to have independent control while being used together. But there are differences in how the controls react and sound to being turned down or up as well.

 

"50's" type wiring is in vogue right now, and has been for a few years, some thinking it is more "authentic" sounding, or better sounding, But I personally don't think they ever used "50's" style in humbucker guitars. I don't actually know, but I think the transition in how they were wired had to do with when they started to equip guitars with humbuckers, rather than the decade we call the wiring. So I am not sure using "50's" type for a '57 reissue would be actually accurate. But still, it would be a good question.

 

Anyway, the extra solder on the pots and the messiness could easily be explained by someone moving wires around.

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500kOhm audio-taper pots for all controls; some repro 'Bumblebee' caps; connected-up in '50s style wiring layout.

 

Job. Done.msp_thumbup.gif

That may be a good way to do it, maybe even a "preferred" way, but I don't think it is neither original to the 2008 R7 OR the original LP in '57.

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Hello Nikolaj and welcome to the Forums!

 

This is the control cavity of a '58 Reissue Les Paul. The '57 will not be any different.

 

CR84018CCBefore.jpg

 

As said, the pots (all of them) are 500kOhm audio taper units. The capacitor is a Sprague Bumblebee replica with 0.022 micro-Farads capacitance.

 

Many companies offer drop-in harnesses. Just google: "Gibson Les Paul 50s style harness". You will get hundreds of hits.

 

Good luck! Bence

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