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J-45 Vintage comes with compensated saddle?


Pete'67

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Sure, to do a saddle you may already have what you need. Calipers are nice to have but not always needed. You will need files and sanding blocks and some patience. If you are simply replicating a saddle you already have you are half way there. Thickness is important, StewMac does make preformed saddles for both Martin and Gibson. Then it is just a matter of tracing the old one and reshaping the new one. The top of the saddle needs to have a nice smooth round contour for proper string take off. I have some blanks here already if you want to send me your saddle.http://www.victorygu...itar/index.html

 

Thanks pete

 

Kind offer

 

The question was more about the need vs no need for compensating a saddle .

Do you reckon if I took the compensated saddle I have out of the guitar and carved myself a straight saddle then I'd notice no difference in intonation ?

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It would possibly be noticeable on some notes played far up the neck on the string that the saddle compensates for. Or on chords played up the neck. However, because most guitar's do not have a compensated saddle, you may have already gotten used to the intonation up the neck being slightly off without one and not notice, thinking it's normal.

 

If only chords are played in a first position, likely no one would ever notice.

 

But, the fretboard spacing with our s compensated saddle is always off on every guitar due to mathematics of intonation...and, a compensated saddle tries to adjust that.

 

Hope this makes sense.

 

QM aka Jazzman Jeff

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Thanks pete

 

Kind offer

 

The question was more about the need vs no need for compensating a saddle .

Do you reckon if I took the compensated saddle I have out of the guitar and carved myself a straight saddle then I'd notice no difference in intonation ?

 

I have noticed no discernible difference. I have yet to check intonation with my Peterson tuner and see that the compensated saddle was intonating correctly, they are usually off just like the good ole straight variety. If they were adjustable like on a electric then it would be a different story.

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BTW, just for giggles, here is my understanding of what intonation is all about. If you look at a classical saddle it is usually straight across with no angle. This is because all the classical strings have relatively the same tension and flexibility. Metal strings on the other hand have a varying amount of stiffness to its string that is proportional to its diameter and whether it is plain or wrapped. If you notice the saddle on a properly intonated electric each string's saddle is stepped up shortening its length, this stepping is fairly consistent as you go to each next smaller string, except when you get to the plain strings, then it steps back down a bit but the next small plain string will step back up. This is because plain strings and wound strings have different elasticity. The small E string is the only one that is at the actual correct length. The length from nut to 12th fret should be exactly the length from 12th fret to the high E's saddle, maybe a bit longer. All other strings have to have this length extended because as the strings get bigger their elasticity becomes less. Essentially there is a dead spot where the string passes over the saddle that doesn't actually vibrate right at the contact point. it actually vibrates up the length of the string a bit. This all occurred to me when I was working at a transmission tower and I was "playing" the huge string that is one of the guy wires. I noticed about 10 feet of the string at its attachment point was absolutely rigid and would not vibrate. Further up the wire I could see and feel the string actually vibrating. BTW, the sound of the laser guns in Star Wars is these wires being struck with something. I swear they sound exactly like this.

 

PS String height is also a factor in this compensation, the more you have to push a string down the sharper it wants to be.

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  • 1 month later...

If you mark the point of contact for each string are they all in the middle of saddle (looking at the saddle from the top) or is the low E point of contact more far away from the sound hole whereas the high E is closest?

Sorry, I cannot describe it more clear. Even in German it would not be so easy. :-)

 

I'm talking about the red line.

 

saddle.compensation1_zpsqodtooni.jpg

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If you mark the point of contact for each string are they all in the middle of saddle (looking at the saddle from the top) or is the low E point of contact more far away from the sound hole whereas the high E is closest?

Sorry, I cannot describe it more clear. Even in German it would not be so easy. :-)

 

I'm talking about the red line.

 

saddle.compensation1_zpsqodtooni.jpg

 

Mine are all straight now with no angles (compensation).

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  • 9 months later...

My first selfmade bone saddle

 

I ordered a blank unbleached bone saddle from Thomann in Germany.

I sanded it down with P120 sandpaper so that it fits snuggly into the slot on the bridge.

With the old one as a template I sanded the curve and angled the top. Polishing was done with P400 sandpaper.

 

Looks good and sounds fine to me.

Although H-string is not compensated guitar sound fine across the fretboard.

 

 

31560787oc.jpg

 

31560786gb.jpg

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The J-45 Vintage (and the True Vintage before it) is an excellent guitar, but despite that Gibson's current website says "true to the original in every way," it is not and was never meant to be a reissue or reproduction of any J-45 from any particular year. It's a mix of features that spans decades. For instance, the Banner decal on the headstock appeared on models between 1942 and 1945, yet the belly bridge didn't appear until 1948. The True Vintage and Vintage models have no side stays, which were present on J-45s up to 1950 or so. The Vintage and True Vintage J-45's have 20 frets, which the J-45 didn't get until 1955. That's just a few of what would be numerous examples. All are features "true to the original," but from different time periods. They all add up to a wonderful guitar. A greatest hits of the J-45, if you will.

 

If you want a period-accurate reissue of a vintage J-45, you have to look at a model like the 1942 Legend.

 

Red 333

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