Fixed J45 pickguard placement

[Mikey19]

Greetings everyone,

 

This is my first post here on the forums but thought I would share

this with you as I have seen many other posts about this subject

 

I own 4 Gibson's in total and 2 of them are sporting the questionable

pickguard placement (the pickguard fitted covering the rosette) one is

a 2011 J45 TV and the other a 2012 L-00 TV limited edition.

 

Both of these guitars sound great, but as time passed the pickguard

placement has really started to bother me and I cant help but wonder why

Gibson lets this happen. I would have thought something as simple as this

would have been easy to get right, especially as they are not exactly cheap

guitars.

 

Anyhow, I took the leap and decided I was going to fix the problem myself,

starting with my J45. First thing I did was contact Gibson asking them how

I would go about getting a Firestripe guard, like the one that's fitted on

the J45 legend as I much prefer the stripe over what was on there already.

The response was less than helpful to say the least with just a "Unfortunately,

the pickguard model you're interested in is not available as a spare part"

without any help in guiding me to get anything else for it i.e. a guard from

any of the other models of J45's.

 

In the end, I managed to find a good shop online that sold Tortoloide pickguard

as sheets or premade, so I purchased a sheet of amber Firestripe and set about

making my own pickguard. Please see below the before and after images and I'm sure

you will agree the results speak for themselves.

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

The process was pretty simple really, including the removing of the old pickguard.

Just picked up the edge closest to the neck and dribbled some white spirit

underneath to loosen the glue and it was plain sailing. I just made sure I was

taking it slow and steady and not trying to rush, but it was pretty fast to come off.

 

After that it was a case of making a template for the new guard. I couldn't

really use the old guard as a guide because the radius that was cut did not line up

with the outside of the rosette.

 

To get the radius I just measured from the edge of the sound hole to the outer edge

of the rosette and added it on to the 4 inche radius I know Gibson use, and drew a

semi circle onto a piece of card with a compass. Next I just lined the old pickguard

up with the semi circle and drew around it to get the rest of the shape, cut it out

and checked against the guitar to make sure it was a perfect fit.

 

The Tortoloid was very easy to work with, after sticking the card template to one

side with double sided tape. you just have to make sure you warm the Tortoloid first,

otherwise it can chip or crack when you cut it cold. For this I just used a hair dryer

and a pair of scissors, heating along the path as I was cutting and making sure I didn't

get to close to the card template. This left enough space for final sanding and shaping

until the pickguard perfectly matched the template.

 

The next part was fitting the 3M pickguard adhesive. You just have to make sure you

don't have any air bubbles after you apply it. After that I just lined up the pickguard

and used a piece of masking tape along the bottom edge (between guard and guitar) to hold

it in place and act like a little hinge. This ensures the pickguard falls into the same

position each time you let it "flop" into place and allows you to have some practice runs

before the other adhesive side of the 3M is exposed.

 

A few "flops" later I was ready to go, spraying a little soapy water where the guard

would sit, I removed the other side of the 3M adhesive and stuck it in place.

I used the soapy water to ensure that no air bubbles got under the pickguard after it

was down and pressed out the water, taking all the air bubbles with it.

 

This is something I wish I had done ages ago and think it looks so much better!

Very, very happy with the results and now all that's left to do is my L-00 \:D/

 

I hope this post inspires some of you other folks unhappy with their pickguard placements

and agonizing if they should get it fixed, professionally or by themselves.

 

All I say to you is... JUST DO IT :) the results speak for themselves

 

Thanks for reading.

[j45nick]

Nicely done, and it looks much better.

 

I have a couple of modern Gibson acoustics with firestripe pickguards (L-OO Legend, Fuller's 1943 SJ re-issue), and the material you used looks much closer to the original than the material Gibson uses.

 

I've modified several celluloid and mock-celluloid pickguards to the proper radius when re-positioning, so you don't necessarily need to replace the original pickguard if you like it. One thing I'd suggest to people doing this is that they take the opportunity to bevel the edges of the pickguard for a more "integrated" feel, if it hasn't already been done.

[Mikey19]

Nicely done, and it looks much better.

 

I have a couple of modern Gibson acoustics with firestripe pickguards (L-OO Legend, Fuller's 1943 SJ re-issue), and the material you used looks much closer to the original than the material Gibson uses.

 

I've modified several celluloid and mock-celluloid pickguards to the proper radius when re-positioning, so you don't necessarily need to replace the original pickguard if you like it. One thing I'd suggest to people doing this is that they take the opportunity to bevel the edges of the pickguard for a more "integrated" feel, if it hasn't already been done.

 

Thanks Nick, I agree that the Tortoloid looks much closer to the original pickguards they used back in the 30's 40's.

I think the ones they use now are printed but I could be wrong. BTW, I'm jealous of your L-00 legend. I had the opportunity to

play one a few years ago and it was a killer guitar.

[Mafy31]

Outstanding result you got there, great job.

And this pickguard fits your gibby very nicely.

 

I sent my hummingbird a few days ago to get a pickguard replacement cause it had some faulty bubbles and was geting unglued, this started a few weeks after i got it.

Took long to decide wether i asked for a replacement or not... i'll update when i get the guitar back.

 

It is nice to see that it can be done by yourself easily (in appearance!). Nick how do you bevel ? Sand down slightly?

And also, white spirit doesnt damage nitro finish ?

[Mikey19]

And also, white spirit doesnt damage nitro finish?

 

Hi Mafy and thanks, I did research on this and it seem white spirit is just the UK name for Naphtha, essentially its just

lighter fluid and evaporates quickly. It didn't leave any marks

[MorrisrownSal]

What a massive improvement. It makes me wonder how the original guard could have gone out where the radius is off. Go figure.

Oh... and kudos to a tremendous informative first post. I hope you have hundreds more. Welcome.

[j45nick]

Nick how do you bevel ? Sand down slightly?

And also, white spirit doesnt damage nitro finish ?

 

With the pickguard removed from the guitar, sand the edges at an angle (maybe about 45 degrees, but varying slightly to get a somewhat rounded edge effect) with increasingly finer grades of wet/dry sandpaper. Celluloid and similar materials are very soft, so you may want to mask off most or all of the pickguard. You can actually mask it all and sand through the masking tape at the edges as part of the process.

 

You might start with 220 grit and go as high as 1500 or so before going to a fine cutting polish, if you really want to get into it. Of course, it's going to get scratched the instant you play the guitar, so you can't afford to obsess about it.

 

Naphtha is the solvent to use when working with nitrocellulose lacquer surfaces. Called "white spirits" in the UK and other countries, but check the chemical content to be sure what you're getting. Typically called VM&P Naphtha in the US (varnish maker's and painter's naphtha). Real celluloid used in traditional pickguards is a close chemical relative to nitrocellulose lacquer.

[OldCowboy]

Good original post and responses as well! The pickguard issues may seem small to some folks. To me, it's the sort of detail that can - without a great deal of effort - add integrity to a good reissue. ☺

[Proclaimer888]

Nice, informative write-up.....Thanks for the post and Props for cutting you own pickguard. Looks great!

[mking]

"In the end, I managed to find a good shop online that sold Tortoloide pickguard

as sheets or premade, so I purchased a sheet of amber Firestripe and set about

making my own pickguard. Please see below the before and after images and I'm sure

you will agree the results speak for themselves."

 

I have been trying to find a fire stripe pick guard for my 2015 L-00 red spruce. Please pass me the name name of the shop you got your material from.

 

Good job!

[mking]

Thanks Nick, I agree that the Tortoloid looks much closer to the original pickguards they used back in the 30's 40's.

I think the ones they use now are printed but I could be wrong. BTW, I'm jealous of your L-00 legend. I had the opportunity to

play one a few years ago and it was a killer guitar.

 

I have found two vendors and the fire stripe they sell is printed.

[Mikey19]

 

I have been trying to find a fire stripe pick guard for my 2015 L-00 red spruce. Please pass me the name name of the shop you got your material from.

 

Good job!

 

Hi mking and thanks, I sent you some links where you can find the Tortoloid but for anyone else interested, try jp guitars and for the US, Stewmac.

[rustystrings]

Just for fun, this is the stock pickguard on 2005 J-45 Historic Collection, similarly removed and replaced. The factory positioning of these 'guards still makes no sense to me.

[Trans]

2014 was the year I think Gibson corrected the placement of the pick guards for them J45's.

I have a friend who has the same issue with crooked round off curve that places the p/g in a very awkward way and not lining up.

That didn't really bother him as those were being pushed out of Gibson QA for the longest time.

 

Now maybe the /g was shrinking in a way or it's just one of those anomaly that we all soon have something to be picking apart.

Personally? I think it's a kool factor having that.

There was enough reason rant and rave for Gibson to give notice as of late to fix the issue.

Nothing is perfect in this world but I guess when you can do something about it why not.

 

I have a Larrivee acoustic that had the see through clear matte finish p/g originally before it got switch to Delmar material tortoise shell p/g.

I had visited Matthew over at the guitar shop ( Jean's son btw! ) and had asked why the change?

He said that since then on the first issue mode? they had decided to have it clear so that the whole guitar body shows the rightful shape and w/o any hindrances to look and appreciate the whole top of the guitar, specially the bear claw that I have on mine just gives it that extra beauty to look and nod your head up and down with a smile. But then again I guess they must've heard it as well as why not put the real traditional p/g black and or tortoise shell appeal, and so they did.

Before I left the plant he gave me a replacement traditional tortoise shell just in case I got too finicky and anal. Till this day I still haven't replaced it. Over 10 years now.

 

Just my .02 cents!

 

Trans

[62burst]

Looks much better, Mike. Just a question: I take it you used the 3M 468MP adhesive sheets? Where you mention spraying soapy water on the top before lowering the pickguard to help guard against air bubbles forming; wouldn’t the water remaining under the ‘guard give concern for long term adhesion of the pickguard to the top?

[mking]

Looks much better, Mike. Just a question: I take it you used the 3M 468MP adhesive sheets? Where you mention spraying soapy water on the top before lowering the pickguard to help guard against air bubbles forming; wouldn’t the water remaining under the ‘guard give concern for long term adhesion of the pickguard to the top?

 

That's what I was wondering about also.

[Mikey19]

Looks much better, Mike. Just a question: I take it you used the 3M 468MP adhesive sheets? Where you mention spraying soapy water on the top before lowering the pickguard to help guard against air bubbles forming; wouldn’t the water remaining under the ‘guard give concern for long term adhesion of the pickguard to the top?

 

The tape I used was 3m 467mp. I'm not sure what the difference is between that and the 468. Perhaps the thickness but the 467mp sheets are what most of the luthier shops sell. Regards to the soapy water, I only put a very small amount of soap in, there wasn't even any bubbles. The water comes out very easily and I had non trapped under the guard once I pressed it out, so I cant imagine there would be any problems down the road with it staying in place.

 

Check this guy out, this is pretty much identical to the way I fitted mine.

 

 

I hope it helps

[62burst]

. . . it surely does help. Thanks for putting that up. If Frank Ford is using that method, than it must be a good way to do the job.

[j45nick]

Looks much better, Mike. Just a question: I take it you used the 3M 468MP adhesive sheets? Where you mention spraying soapy water on the top before lowering the pickguard to help guard against air bubbles forming; wouldnt the water remaining under the guard give concern for long term adhesion of the pickguard to the top?

 

The soapy water trick works well with most self-adhesive items on almost any water-repellent surface. I used exactly the same technique to put the self-adhesive vinyl and goldleaf name on the stern of my boat a couple of years ago. Alignment was pretty tricky, even with all the letters assembled on backing paper. That's about $600 worth of vinyl and real goldleaf on the stern, so it was a tedious process. I actually got a small crease in one of the big letters which developed while I squeegeed out the water, but it's so small I haven't bothered to put on the replacement letter they sent me.

 

The wet surface interface also gives you a very tiny window in time to re-position things slightly, as long as you haven't pressed the item down too tightly to the non-adhesive surface. You just have to work the item very carefully on the surface with some type of non-damaging squeegee device (I use a flexible poly spreader like you use in auto body work to spread body filler) to make sure you haven't left an air bubble or water bubble underneath whatever you're adhering to the surface, whether it's the top of a guitar or the transom of your boat.

 

[mking]

Mike, Sent you a PM.

Michael