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First attempt at making my own nut for my Advanced Jumbo


sbpark

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Last two acoustics I took to my local tech left me disappointed with less and less attention to detail. If you charge $95 for a basic set up, you should be able to dial it in the first or second time. I got a bit suspicious of this guy's abilities when he said if he went too low on the nut slots or the saddle that to replace it would be a "special order" (shouldn't any competent tech be able to make these items from a bone blank?!) After the third attempt I just took the guitar and got my money back and decided to do it myself. Ordered a few bone blanks. It didnt come out perfect, but I think it came out pretty good, nut slots are perfect, and it's 100% functional. I went back and ordered some unbleached, pre-slotted bone nuts and unbleached saddle blanks and think I'll make a new saddle as well. I think the un-bleached nut and saddle will look great on an AJ with some buffalo horn pins I have.

 

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Bravo - very gratifying to carve ones own nut and get full control over slots and spacing.

 

It takes a good focus and is the perrrrfect zen exercise.

 

You really don't wanna mess up when bein' 85 % finished.

 

Healthy in every way. The result looks fine too.

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Awesome indeed!

When can you do mine next? [thumbup]

You would think all the nut on the Gibson acoustics are standard specs? [confused]

Then you could just make new pre-cut ones for other gits you have if you opt to bone her [scared]

 

Trans

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Awesome indeed!

When can you do mine next? [thumbup]

You would think all the nut on the Gibson acoustics are standard specs? [confused]

Then you could just make new pre-cut ones for other gits you have if you opt to bone her [scared]

 

Trans

 

Yep, StewMac sells pre-slotted bone nuts for Gibson specs. I just wanted to try y hand at shaping a few from blanks just to see if I could do it. I have a new guy who isn't just a tech, but a luthier that makes custom acoustics and bouzoukis and he did a warranty repair on a Martin of mine and also works at a very reputable shop out my way. He's going to be my new go-to guy for anything I can do myself. He said whenever they are looking to hire a new person the bench test is to have them make a nut. He said you'd be surprised at how many guys who go through programs for guitar repair and building can't make a proper nut.

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Nice. Luther promises to show me a few things when I'm ready to move away. I've had the same guy since forever, so I will learn to replace a nut myself, stuff like that. Yours looks as good as it is supposed to!

 

rct

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... think I'll make a new saddle as well. ...

 

Man, that had to be a frustrating with the shop. Glad it worked out for you - it's nice to expand your capabilities.

 

Good luck with the saddle. I've done a few drop in saddles, but shy away from the long slot saddles.

 

 

.

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Looks good. On my first nut it came out looking very good but I had the slots at the wrong angle. If they are too low the stings will choke and not ring perfectly. If the angle is too high the string will sit on too much of a point which can also cause the string to do funny things , not to mention the bone can wear out faster. What I have been doing is making the angle between the angle of the head stock and the fret board. I can do this by eye. The strings will usually sound great every time.

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Looks good. On my first nut it came out looking very good but I had the slots at the wrong angle. If they are too low the stings will choke and not ring perfectly. If the angle is too high the string will sit on too much of a point which can also cause the string to do funny things , not to mention the bone can wear out faster. What I have been doing is making the angle between the angle of the head stock and the fret board. I can do this by eye. The strings will usually sound great every time.

 

You're supposed to file the slot the same angle as the angle of the headstock.

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No no no

 

Yes, yes, yes, at least with a Gibson that has an angled headstock as opposed to say a Fender. You don't file the slot flat. You file it at the same angle as the headstock and want your string to sit on the front edge of the nut. Here are a few examples of what I am describing. After you file the slots correctly I rounded the back of the nut (just like a the stock nut). My guitar actually intonates better that it did with the stock nut. Guess I did it wrong though per your reply!

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Looks good. On my first nut it came out looking very good but I had the slots at the wrong angle. If they are too low the stings will choke and not ring perfectly. If the angle is too high the string will sit on too much of a point which can also cause the string to do funny things , not to mention the bone can wear out faster. What I have been doing is making the angle between the angle of the head stock and the fret board. I can do this by eye. The strings will usually sound great every time.

 

 

^

😐

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You're supposed to file the slot the same angle as the angle of the headstock.

 

If you do the take off point will be too sharp and the string will tend to arc over potentially affecting intonation. Also this point can wear faster. I split the difference between the angle of the headstock and fret board, works every time.

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Yes, yes, yes, at least with a Gibson that has an angled headstock as opposed to say a Fender. You don't file the slot flat. You file it at the same angle as the headstock and want your string to sit on the front edge of the nut. Here are a few examples of what I am describing. After you file the slots correctly I rounded the back of the nut (just like a the stock nut). My guitar actually intonates better that it did with the stock nut. Guess I did it wrong though per your reply!

 

My method is similar to your C example, which is in between the A and B examples, except I do not round over the ends. In your C example the string is not sitting on the edge of the nut at the take off point, that cant be good for intonation and can cause the string to choke and not vibrate freely.

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VP, it makes perfect sense, as you say, that the angle of the headstock dictates the angle of the nut slots. But... In addition to the angle of the headstock, don't you also have to consider the angle at which the string will come off the winding peg, which may be more steep or more shallow? in other words, it the string comes off the winding peg very high, (ex. the 6th string with 4 or 5 windings) the angle of the nut slot may be too shallow. And if the string comes off the winding peg very low, (ex. the 1st string with only 2 or 3 windings) the nut slot angle will be too steep? So, does the nut have to be cut based on where it is expected the string will leave the winding peg? Might that angle be different for the 6th string than for the 1st string? Or, am I counting how many angels can dance on the head of a pin again?

I've never fashioned a nut. Above my pay grade. I've don't a couple of banjo bridges and that was as complicated as I want life to be. FWIW - most banjos have an adjustable tailpiece that can raise or lower by 1/4" or so the height of the strings coming out from where they're anchored. This, then, changes the angle at which they hit they hit the bridge/saddle. And significantly affects 'tone'.

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VP, it makes perfect sense, as you say, that the angle of the headstock dictates the angle of the nut slots. But... In addition to the angle of the headstock, don't you also have to consider the angle at which the string will come off the winding peg, which may be more steep or more shallow? in other words, it the string comes off the winding peg very high, (ex. the 6th string with 4 or 5 windings) the angle of the nut slot may be too shallow. And if the string comes off the winding peg very low, (ex. the 1st string with only 2 or 3 windings) the nut slot angle will be too steep? So, does the nut have to be cut based on where it is expected the string will leave the winding peg? Might that angle be different for the 6th string than for the 1st string? Or, am I counting how many angels can dance on the head of a pin again?

I've never fashioned a nut. Above my pay grade. I've don't a couple of banjo bridges and that was as complicated as I want life to be. FWIW - most banjos have an adjustable tailpiece that can raise or lower by 1/4" or so the height of the strings coming out from where they're anchored. This, then, changes the angle at which they hit they hit the bridge/saddle. And significantly affects 'tone'.

 

Yes each string has a different angle, but I think that would be splitting hairs. I just make an angle that is between the headstock and fretboard. If it is a Fender I make an angle between the fretboard and the greatest angle of the strings. With the banjo you are talking about break angle over the saddle, I used to think a high break angle would increase volume on a guitar but it doesn't, it does change the picking attack effect though, the higher the angle the more treble you get as you first hit the string. On a banjo it must be a different situation, as you increases the break angle you get more force down onto the head, which is flexible, so I imagine you do get an increase in volume.

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