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Explorer Tuner Upgrade


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Explorers come with Grovers. Grovers are 10mm posts. I'm not sure why you would want to put locking tuners on there but good luck with it.

 

rct

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Explorers come with Grovers. Grovers are 10mm posts. I'm not sure why you would want to put locking tuners on there but good luck with it.

 

rct

 

Are you saying its a bad idea? The reason I want them is the same reason anybody wants locking tuners I guess. easier string changes and tuning stability. It goes slightly out of tune every 2 or 3 songs. when I say slightly it is very slightly but it is still noticeable.

Nut is cut right and I use nut sauce. I like playing this one so much it has become my main guitar so just wanted to dial it in a little more.

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Are you saying its a bad idea?

No, more like unnecessary.

The reason I want them is the same reason anybody wants locking tuners I guess. easier string changes...

If you use the knot all tuners become locking tuners, all tuners are that easy to change strings on.

and tuning stability.

If you knot your strings you will have no slack in windings, no place for the string to move at the machine, and all tuning issues become stretch and shrink problems assuming you have a decent nut and bridge.

It goes slightly out of tune every 2 or 3 songs. when I say slightly it is very slightly but it is still noticeable.

Learn how to knot them and stop winding. I've knotted strings on every guitar I've ever owned since 1975ish, I don't have tuning problems like most guitar players complain about. Sure, I tune my guitar because I push it and pull it out of tune, not because of the machines or the nut or the bridge.

 

The guy that works on my guitars pokes at me constantly about knotting them, I am the only guy he has ever known to do that, and we've known each other and he's been working on guitars since the 70's. I don't know why nobody does, but there it is.

 

rct

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How do i learn to do that? I dont think I have ever heard of knotting. Maybe there is a youtube video or something

 

If I get time, I'll change strings on the weekend and take some pictures.

 

rct

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If I get time, I'll change strings on the weekend and take some pictures.

 

rct

 

Hey that's awesome man thanks for your help. If you get around to it this weekend or next or whenever let me know I would appreciate it. I will definitely give it a shot. I do a sort of loop that I have seen on youtube but it still needs a tuning touch up every couple songs.

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Hey that's awesome man thanks for your help. If you get around to it this weekend or next or whenever let me know I would appreciate it. I will definitely give it a shot. I do a sort of loop that I have seen on youtube but it still needs a tuning touch up every couple songs.

 

All guitars need a touch up every couple few songs or so. No guitar makes it a set without needing tuning. Ok, I've been lucky I guess and haven't had to tune through a whole set maybe once or twice maybe. I think you need to lose that expectation, having to tune your guitar does not mean something is wrong.

 

rct

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I agree with RCT on not needing the locking tuners. I have a Gibson M4 Sherman Explorer with stock locking Grovers and a 2008 Gibson Faded Explorer with Grovers and there really isn't a noticable difference in either going out of tune. If you play out with it, it will go out of tune a bit over a couple of songs. I am interested in seeing how RCT ties off the strings.

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If I get time, I'll change strings on the weekend and take some pictures.

 

So I did! I woulda used my Explorer but I took it out last weekend so it was strung up. I'm running outta strings so I couldn't just throw a set on there, so I picked one that needed strings...

 

I change strings like this on all guitars, electric, acoustic, bass, six on a side, three on a side. I've done this since the mid 70's.

 

I used my Esquire because it has slotted machines and the first thing the smartest guy in the room will say is YOU CAN'T DO THAT WITH SLOTTED MACHINES MAN!!!

 

1. Get yer machine slot or two holes at 6 o'clock, one hole on top and one bottom. Get the string on the bridge right and in the nut right, pull on it slightly:

 

Knot1.jpg

 

2. Turn the machine, counter clockwise(thumb away from you), until it is like 10 of 4, like \, only a tad further, you can see the offset in the picture. I'm holding with my right while turning with my left, notice my wrist against the end of the stock. That will be important again:

 

Knot2.jpg

 

3. Pull the end of the string to the right so it is pointing at three o'clock, then put your left index finger on it to hold it there:

 

Knot3.jpg

 

4. Holding it there with your left index, pull the end to the machine. I show it with the loop in it, when you have a bunch of strings on there you have to push it to the right under the other strings, and loop it so you can pull it back under the other strings:

 

Knot4.jpg

 

5. Pull the string tight, let go with your left index, I'm holding it with my right hand tight against the post, under the slot(or hole):

 

Knot5.jpg

 

6. TRICKY PART. Pull the string up, toward the slot(hole), over, and to the headstock, holding it tight:

 

Knot6.jpg

 

7. My wrist is against the stock allowing my hand to pull away, keeping the string tight. My left hand pushes the top crossing piece down while holding it tight with right hand:

 

Knot7.jpg

 

8. My left hand turns the machine a turn, plus a tad, and it is locked. In this case it is actually already a sharp C#, usually already a D when I put the tuner on:

 

Knot8.jpg

 

9. Cut it off:

 

Knot9.jpg

 

Including Mrs moving around to take the pictures this whole ordeal took about 4 minutes. Twenty minutes after the last picture the guitar was strung, stretched, tuned, intonated. I hope the method is understandable. It was in Guitar Player magazine, summer of 75 or so, and I haven't seen it mentioned since. To this day I don't know anyone else that puts them on like this, and neither does my fix it guy, he knows every guitar player in three states.

 

rct

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