hu3436 Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 I've just purchased a set of D'Addario custom lights (EJ26 Phosphor Bronze) to go on my DR100, any input on these strings is appreciated as there not fitted yet, but, i was just wondering, what model D'Addario's come standard on the DR100? i know the size but not the model of string. Also i'm only changing from light (M140) 12-54 martin strings so I'm assuming ill get away with not adjusting the truss rod or anything more specialist :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestionMark Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 Although my favorites are Martin SP strings, I have tried D'Addario strings and found them to be basically be on par with the Martin SPs. As they are both in the Lights category you shouldn't need to do any neck adjustment. One piece of advice, though, is change and replace only one string at a time, to keep the neck totally where it is at. Problems only potentially occur with the neck slightly moving when you would take all of the strings off at once and then put all new strings on. One at a time replacement keeps the neck and adequate tension in place. Hope this helps. QM aka Jazzman Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hu3436 Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Although my favorites are Martin SP strings, I have tried D'Addario strings and found them to be basically be on par with the Martin SPs. As they are both in the Lights category you shouldn't need to do any neck adjustment. One piece of advice, though, is change and replace only one string at a time, to keep the neck totally where it is at. Problems only potentially occur with the neck slightly moving when you would take all of the strings off at once and then put all new strings on. One at a time replacement keeps the neck and adequate tension in place. Hope this helps. QM aka Jazzman Jeff Thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis G Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 A couple of things here. I have a DR100 (as well as other acoustics, including a Masterbilt). I believe (but could be wrong) that Epi uses D'Addario strings on all of their acoustics. I have used D'Addario EXP's phosphour bronze/12-53 on all of my acoustics for years. No issues, and I like 'em. I read (somewhere) that D'Addario makes about 80% of all strings on the market, although made to each mfgr's specs. Take that FWIW. Also, and it's IMHO only with no offense inteded to QM or anyone else, taking all of your strings off at the same time is NOT going to affect your truss rod in any way, shape or form. For the few minutes that there is no tension on the neck, it isn't going to matter. Others may disagree but I have almost 2 dozen guitars, acoustic, electric, 6 string and 12, and have been playing/changing strings for over five decades, and I always take off all the strings at once. I've never had any issues. Gives me a good chance to do maintenance, oil the fretboard (if necessary) as well as other things if needed. If you're going to leave all of the strings off for an extended period of time, well, that's another story. As always, YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestionMark Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 Dennis, it is not that I would take offense, but rather HU3436 is obviously a beginner guitar owner and asked for expertise on changing strings and if he'd experience any resulting neck adjustments. As a result, I carefully stated, PROBLEMS ONLY POTENTIALLY occur with the neck when you would take all of the strings off at once....etc. Because, it is only common sense that since tightened guitar strings result in tons and tons and tons of tension on the neck that if all of that string tension is en masse gone, the neck, having adjusted to all of that string tension to being in its position, could POTENTIALLY cause the neck to slightly move if all that tension is gone. Changing only one string at a time, only removes that one string's tension while the rest of the remaining tightened strings leave the remainder of the tension on the neck in place. Keeping the significant tension on the neck, reduces the possible chance of the neck slightly moving than if all of the strings are removed at once which causes all tension on the neck to be gone. With HU3436 being new, it made total sense to tell him of this possibility. It doesn't mean it will cause a neck position truss rod movement, but it certainly potentially could. Think about it. If you were to put heavier gauge strings on a guitar, it would put more tension on a neck and potentially cause it to need a truss rod readjustment. Likewise, if one used medium gauge strings and switched to light gauge, the neck would have less tension and POTENTIALLY need a truss rod adjustment. Likewise if there is tons of tension on a neck from 6 tightened strings and they are all suddenly removed and then re-tensioned, there is now no tension on an otherwise highly tensioned truss rod, which could also POTENTIALLY cause it to move. Again, the word is POTENTiALLY and if someone asks for expertise, they should be given all the possibilities and risks. I have played guitar for 55 years and own numerous instruments. Anything to keep a guitar stable helps avoid the need for truss rod adjustments. Don't get me wrong, sometimes it is appropriate to de-stress all neck tension on a neck, such as when storing an instrument for a long period of time or during airplane flights or to let a neck re-settle back to a no tension position when correcting a neck that needs major readjustment before it occurs. Just my two cents. QM aka Jazzman Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldCowboy Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 I've advocated changing one string at a time for nearly as long as I've owned a guitar (58 years - that's how old I'd prefer to be again😨), but my consideration has less to do with necks than with the potential for top braces to flex overmuch with all tension suddenly removed. Doubt it makes much difference with new or lam top guitars, but I've usually played older instruments, first because I couldn't afford new and now because I just tend to like 'em better. Not an expert luthier-substantiated scientifically proven fact, by any means. Just 5 cents worth from an obscure guitar guy😃 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestionMark Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Those are all good possible considerations to consider, too! 58 years of playing! Whew...you might hold the record here on this forum for playing as its more so than my 55 years of playing! Many more years of playing to both of us, and all players God willing! QM aka Jazzman Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis G Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 I'm thinking this falls into the "personal preference and no right or wrong answer" category. All points well taken, and thx to OC and QM for chiming in. In answer to one specific question the OP had, I did look up the DR100 on the Epi site and it does in fact come with D'Addario 12-53's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hu3436 Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 Hi guys i watched a fender tutorial video on changing strings then went for it, everything went great, guitar is holding tune well, after slightly stretching the strings before tuning i also did my friends lorenzo guitar with same model strings, and that went good as well, think i been putting it off all this time in case i was heavy handed but its fine, fyi i took all the strings off at once and changed the strings in 10 min per guitar everything ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuidoL Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 Hi all Old post, but I read some answers and appreciate the competence of many people. Question: when I bought my Epiphone DR100 it was a loud strummer and no more, because the action up the 10th fret was so high you could only use chords. I've changed 3 bridges and lowered the action, plus I ever used .010 gauge for easy bending. The guitar is fine for what is worth but buzzing begins to appear at the 12th fret, 1st string. I'm thinking to go back to 12-53 and put some strain on the neck, without tampering on the truss rod but simply wait for the strings to pull and raise the action. I always feared to touch a truss rod! What do you think of this approach? Thanks & best regards Guido Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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