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Fast String Change


drathbun

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Fun watch Drath...

 

Same process here, well about 98% of it..

 

I push the balls up to the bridge block as I secure the pin. Not sure if it matters, but I am thinking less wear on the bottom of the bridge and holes, since the string doesn't move (much) when getting it to pitch.

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Geez you’ve a tool for everything

 

Same mug as me !

 

The measurement to the next tuning post is one of the best things I learned years ago ..

But I’m an over first wind and under the rest kinda guy

 

I used to do the same thing BBG, but I like the look of the strings all neatly wound. I know the Martin guy uses the lock technique but when my two guitar tech gurus Jim Mozell and Frank Ford say the lock and the under/over wind isn't necessary, I listen.

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This dude can change some strings.

 

 

Now there's a man who has done this a few times! Don't try this at home folks.

 

Did you catch how he cuts each string progressively longer as the gauges get smaller?

 

He also pries the pins out with a side-cutter (dykes) by leveraging the cutter against the saddle. This takes a lot of skill to do this quickly without damaging either the bridge or the pins.

 

And pulling all the old strings out together at both the bridge and the headstock, if you don't know what you're doing, can scratch either or both.

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Fun watch Drath...

 

Same process here, well about 98% of it..

 

I push the balls up to the bridge block as I secure the pin. Not sure if it matters, but I am thinking less wear on the bottom of the bridge and holes, since the string doesn't move (much) when getting it to pitch.

 

So you reach inside the soundhole and push the pins up rather than pull them up via the string?

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Sting Lock -- Never mind the increased opportunity to impale your finger tips on the unwound strings, trying to defeat that "lock" thing. No longer do that!

 

also I've top wound the first winding, as well as just neatly wound them down. I can't really say whether or not it makes any appreciable difference once the strings have stretched and settled down.

 

I use a rechargeable screw driver, much less torque and RPMs on that vs a wireless drill. Less chance for me to do something dumb!!!

 

the only thing I can say with absolute certainty, is the first few days on my SJ200 with a fresh set of Nano Web PB12s, is like "AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAhhhhhhhhh!!!!! That's the stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!" It's the little things...

 

So you reach inside the soundhole and push the pins up rather than pull them up via the string?

 

yea,, so reach inside and push the ball ends up as I secure the pin, by gently pressing the pin down from the top. The ball end will not move (if it does, just a very small amount) as it sets in place when first tuned pitch. again, just with the idea being less movement, hopefully, less wear on the holes and bridge plate. (I've seen some pretty f'ed up bridge plates and pinholes, if you look inside a well played/used guitar.)

 

Also notable with Elixrs your doing LESS string changes a year too, which also saves the wear and tear.. I dunno,, is this being OCD????? perhaps.. just a little.

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Sting Lock -- Never mind the increased opportunity to impale your finger tips on the unwound strings, trying to defeat that "lock" thing. No longer do that!

 

also I've top wound the first winding, as well as just neatly wound them down. I can't really say whether or not it makes any appreciable difference once the strings have stretched and settled down.

 

I use a rechargeable screw driver, much less torque and RPMs on that vs a wireless drill. Less chance for me to do something dumb!!!

 

the only thing I can say with absolute certainty, is the first few days on my SJ200 with a fresh set of Nano Web PB12s, is like "AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAhhhhhhhhh!!!!! That's the stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!" It's the little things...

 

 

 

yea,, so reach inside and push the ball ends up as I secure the pin, by gently pressing the pin down from the top. The ball end will not move (if it does, just a very small amount) as it sets in place when first tuned pitch. again, just with the idea being less movement, hopefully, less wear on the holes and bridge plate. (I've seen some pretty f'ed up bridge plates and pinholes, if you look inside a well played/used guitar.)

 

Also notable with Elixrs your doing LESS string changes a year too, which also saves the wear and tear.. I dunno,, is this being OCD????? perhaps.. just a little.

 

I use my cordless drill but have the torque set to minimum. I have an electric screwdriver as well but the drill has this fancy light on it making it easier to see. Yes, the second day after a new set of Nano PB's is ahhhhh. And that "ahhh" lasts so much longer than a set of Martin SP's (awesome strings for an hour).

 

You aren't being OCD about bridge plates. Once that ball end starts travelling up through the bridge plate there isn't much for it but getting it replaced. I can't say I've tried a "Bridge Doctor" but the thought of a brass plate there makes me shudder to think what the sound would be like.

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My screwdriver has a light as well... but need reading glasses for any close up work.. With out those is like throwing hand grenades at my grill and hoping I cook a burger!!!

 

You aren't being OCD about bridge plates. Once that ball end starts travelling up through the bridge plate there isn't much for it but getting it replaced.

 

yep that's kind of it...

 

btw.. I wanted to before mention, the music track you used for the background music was beautiful.. I liked that a lot.. nice job there! As usual!

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When string winders first came out - they were cheap, wobbly little plastic gizmos that didn't fit all that well on the guitar's tuning knob/button.

So I didn't bother with them at all. A couple of years ago I got a really great one (Music Nomad?). In love with it.

What's an 'electric' screwdriver?

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