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LOCKING STOP BAR


Wild Bill 212

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OK, Guys & Dolls, I just got the Guitar of a LIFE-TIME, this ES-335 is just AWESOME, ANTIQUE CHERRY, SWEEET !.....ICFBI, the TONES I am able to get out of this SWEETHEART of a Guitar , it is incredible.....

 

<br><br>Just one problem, I have never had a LOCKING STOP-TAIL and do not know how to adjust it....its sitting a li'l higher than it should be as the LOW 'E' string is missing the back of the ABR-1 by at least 1/32" and from what I have heard the STOP-TAIL on these ES-335's <br>should be FLUSH against the body.....this one is NOT....

 

*****NOTE****** I do think that it has an ALLEN/HEX Head screw that needs to be 'UN-LOCKED' FIRST, then the ALLEN/HEX KEY is used to adjust the height.<br><br>MY QESTION IS: DO THE STRINGS NEED TO BE DOWN-TUNED(tension taken off)  FIRST?<br>

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I will answer my own QUESTION:

 

I STILL DO NOT KNOW, LOL !!! To be on the safe side I loosened the strings then I Turned the SCREWDRIVER HEAD half-a-turn, inserted the ALLEN/HEX Key and adjusted the ALLEN/HEX Key to the desired height (Just about FLUSH with the body !) and re-tightened the SCREW-DRIVER HEAD/CAP.......it is very simple BUT I definitely prefer the regular STOP-TAIL BOLTs....and I still DO NOT know if it is necessary to loosen the strings first !

 

The ABR-1 is a nice surprise as the strings do not even come close to hitting the back of the Bridge Plate and that enables the STOP-TAIL to be lowered all the way down to the Body........

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It's personal preference. Some people deck (all the way down against the body of the guitar) their stop tails. I like mine so the angle of the strings doesn't touch the back of the bridge when going into the tail stop.

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It's personal preference. Some people deck (all the way down against the body of the guitar) their stop tails. I like mine so the angle of the strings doesn't touch the back of the bridge when going into the tail stop.

 

 

 

TNX and True Dat..... and that is exactly what a GIBSON 'MEMPHIS' Final Inspector I met a while back told me personally, and it is also what GIBSON USA recommends as well (They also recommend Over-Wrapping)....that the "strings clear the back of the Bridge-Plate".From GIBSON.com . SEE HERE: http://www.gibson.co...uning-Tips.aspx

 

My original question is about the "HP" Locking Stop-Tail (and string tension) on my ES-335, it was obviously not difficult to take the tension off of the strings, BUT try figuring out how to UN-LOCK and ADJUST that "HP" STOP-TAIL w/out someone telling you 'HOW TO'. I dug up an e-mail from early 2017 when GIBSON USA sent me instructions on 'HOW TO' UN-LOCK and ADJUST the "HP" STOP-TAIL (it sez nothing about String Tension removal) on an 'SG' "HP" Model that I sent back because of NECK DIVE-itis (and the Locking Stop-Bar). I would definitely prefer a good ol' regular Stop-Tail (and that's exactly what the replacement 2017 'SG' STANDARD 'Trad.' has) and for GIBSON to call that flimsy POS a 'High Performance' Stop-Tail is laughable....However, in GIBSON's defense, it is quite easy to 'UN-LOCK' and 'ADJUST' once I found out 'HOW TO'.....

 

The ABR-1 has such a small amount of surface area behind the saddles that the strings will not touch the back of the Bridge Plate no matter what the height of the Stop-Tail is set at, that is, on my particular ES-335 anyway.

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