Stewmac saddles

[JuanCarlosVejar]

Folks,

 

I need a pair of saddles to de-electrify a pair of guitars that came with electronics.

 

https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Nuts_and_Saddles/Bleached_White_Bone_Saddles.html

 

Would the Stewmac “Gibson Shaped” option be the way to go?

 

It says radius is 10”

 

 

 

Thanks a bunch for any info/advice

 

 

 

 

JC

[sbpark]

I'd just go with saddles from Bob Colosi. He's super fast to respond to emails and inquiries and has great customer service.

[j45nick]

It depends on the depth, width, and length of the bridge slot that needs to be filled. The saddle top radius at 10" seems about right for a board radius of 12".

[JuanCarlosVejar]

It depends on the depth, width, and length of the bridge slot that needs to be filled. The saddle top radius at 10" seems about right for a board radius of 12".

 

Nick,

 

Both are Gibson acoustics ... is that enough or should I just get the rectangle saddle and have it shaped ?

 

 

 

 

JC

[drathbun]

Bob Colosi saddles are #1 IMO.

 

Custom Guitar Saddles

[j45nick]

Nick,

 

Both are Gibson acoustics ... is that enough or should I just get the rectangle saddle and have it shaped ?

 

JC

 

 

Chances are you could fine-tune the radiused saddle to suit more easily than starting from a rectangular blank. The saddle may well be too tall for your existing saddle slot, depending on the neck set of the guitars, in which case you would normally sand off the bottom.

 

The Gibson saddles at Stewmac are a bit longer than required, even for a slot-through saddle, which is typically just about 4" long. If you have slot-through bridges, you would cut the saddle to length, then scallop the ends to suit the saddle slot and match the bridge. For a drop-in saddle, you cut the saddle to length, then round the ends to fit the saddle slot.

 

 

In either case, you then sand the bottom to get the saddle to the right height for the action you want.

[sbpark]

Chances are you could fine-tune the radiused saddle to suit more easily than starting from a rectangular blank. The saddle may well be too tall for your existing saddle slot, depending on the neck set of the guitars, in which case you would normally sand off the bottom.

 

The Gibson saddles at Stewmac are a bit longer than required, even for a slot-through saddle, which is typically just about 4" long. If you have slot-through bridges, you would cut the saddle to length, then scallop the ends to suit the saddle slot and match the bridge. For a drop-in saddle, you cut the saddle to length, then round the ends to fit the saddle slot.

 

 

In either case, you then sand the bottom to get the saddle to the right height for the action you want.

 

With a slotted saddle you actually sand it from the top, not the bottom.

 

Also, I wouldn't worry much about the radius. Most likely the saddle is going to be bigger then you need, including the height, and if it's a slotted saddle that means you'll be sanding it from the top. People get too hung up on the fretboard radius. Instead, actually adjust the string height/action on each individual string, and if you do this it will naturally fall into place and follow whatever the fretboard radius is. When I made a slotted saddle for my Advanced jumbo I set the action something like this going from the low E to high E measured at the 12th fret: 6/64", 5.5/64", 5/64" 5/64" 4.5/64" & 4/64".

[dhanners623]

I'll second (or third) the Bob Colosi option. Had one of his saddles installed on my J-35 and it was a welcome improvement.

 

That said, I had a repairman fine-tune (no pun intended) the saddle. I think intonating a new saddle is a job for somebody who knows what he/she is doing, and I'm not that person.

[uncle fester]

Hey JC, with all this input - I'm really hoping you go with the Bob Colossi option just to hear you report out on your thoughts. From the input here and what I've read, sounds like it's a great option.

[Dave F]

Those Piezo strips are not that thick (they do vary).

If you like your setup just put a rosewood shim under the saddle.

http://guitarsaddles.com/SaddleShim.asp

 

 

[j45nick]

With a slotted saddle you actually sand it from the top, not the bottom.

 

 

I don't.

 

You don't finish off the ends of a slot-through saddle until you've got the height right by sanding the bottom of the saddle. Then you carve the ends of the saddle to suit the bridge profile. That's easier than sanding the top, at least for me..

[sbpark]

I don't.

 

You don't finish off the ends of a slot-through saddle until you've got the height right by sanding the bottom of the saddle. Then you carve the ends of the saddle to suit the bridge profile. That's easier than sanding the top, at least for me..

 

Whatever works for you, but sanding and finish the sides has nothing to do with whether you prefer to adjust your slotted saddle from the top of bottom. I think you're in the minority here though by adjusting your slotted saddle from the bottom.

 

If you just sand the bottom then finish the ends you sacrifice a consistent action across all strings and you're just stuck with whatever radius that saddle has.. I'll sand the bottom to ensure it's totally flat, then sand the top to PERFECTLY adjust each string to get the action exactly where I want it, then finish by sanding the sides to match the bridge profile, and finish with polishing the saddle. This yields a more playable guitar and you're not stuck with whatever radius the saddle is at, and dare I say this is how most would fit a slotted saddle. I've made several from blanks, but when I got lazy and went with a pre-made saddle, I still sanded from the top to dial in each individual string. It really does make a difference.

[Dave F]

I’m with Nick in this one.

[j45nick]

Whatever works for you, but sanding and finish the sides has nothing to do with whether you prefer to adjust your slotted saddle from the top of bottom. I think you're in the minority here though by adjusting your slotted saddle from the bottom.

 

If you just sand the bottom then finish the ends you sacrifice a consistent action across all strings and you're just stuck with whatever radius that saddle has.. I'll sand the bottom to ensure it's totally flat, then sand the top to PERFECTLY adjust each string to get the action exactly where I want it, then finish by sanding the sides to match the bridge profile, and finish with polishing the saddle. This yields a more playable guitar and you're not stuck with whatever radius the saddle is at, and dare I say this is how most would fit a slotted saddle. I've made several from blanks, but when I got lazy and went with a pre-made saddle, I still sanded from the top to dial in each individual string. It really does make a difference.

 

 

As you say, whatever works for you. "Perfect" isn't in my vocabulary with relation to guitars, or much else, for that matter. Leads to too much anxiety.

 

 

By the way, we may not be talking about exactly the same thing here. I don't slot my saddles. I'm talking about a bridge with a slot-through saddle, ie, where the saddle slot in the bridge goes completely through the bridge transversely, rather than holding the saddle captive at each end.

[sbpark]

As you say, whatever works for you. "Perfect" isn't in my vocabulary with relation to guitars, or much else, for that matter. Leads to too much anxiety.

 

 

By the way, we may not be talking about exactly the same thing here. I don't slot my saddles. I'm talking about a bridge with a slot-through saddle, ie, where the saddle slot in the bridge goes completely through the bridge transversely, rather than holding the saddle captive at each end.

 

I just can't imagine how you can get the action for each string correct by only sanding from the bottom. You can get close if it's a pre-made saddle, but would still need fine-tuning. If you're making it from a blank you absolutely will have to sand and shape the saddle from the top.

 

These are all slotted saddles I've made and what I am referring to. Much different than a drop-in style saddle.

 

 

 

 

[dhanners623]

Frank Ford sands from both the top AND bottom, depending on the situation....

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Guitar/Setup/LowerAction/loweraction01.html

[j45nick]

Those saddles look very nice.

 

I'm not saying I never sand the top at all. In many cases, it's a matter of sanding both top and bottom. As you say, the top radius is an approximation, and a starting point. After you get that to generally mirror the fretboard radius, I then sand the bottom to lower the height to the right level. I'm probably not as fussy as you about the precise clearance under each string.

 

Everyone has their own way of getting this right. There is no absolutely right or wrong way to approach it.

 

Peace, brother.

[sbpark]

Those saddles look very nice.

 

I'm not saying I never sand the top at all. In many cases, it's a matter of sanding both top and bottom. As you say, the top radius is an approximation, and a starting point. After you get that to generally mirror the fretboard radius, I then sand the bottom to lower the height to the right level. I'm probably not as fussy as you about the precise clearance under each string.

 

Everyone has their own way of getting this right. There is no absolutely right or wrong way to approach it.

 

Peace, brother.

 

I usually only make saddles for and work on my own guitars, with the once-in-a-while exception when I work on a friend's guitar. Saying I'm more "fussy" is an opinion/one way to look at it, but I'd call it doing the job right. If I did this for a living and was working on other people's guitars regularly you might call it being "fussy", but I'd say it's doing it the right way and going the extra mile to get it the way it should be and what the customer deserves. I know there are people that use radius gauges, etc. to match the fretboard radius, but if you actually adjust the action of each string correctly it will naturally follow the curve of the fretboard regardless of the radius and yield the most natural progression and consistent feel from string to string.

[JuanCarlosVejar]

I ended up going with stewmac “shaped” option

 

The Bob Colossi saddles are kind of pricey and I’m on a budget.

If I don’t like the end result I’ll get the Colossi saddles.

 

 

Will report back how the Stewmac saddles work.

I remember Ren Ferguson saying Jackson Browne had “ears like a fox” because he hears things that normal people don’t hear.

 

 

I’m kind of like that myself [probably not to Jackson’s degree though] ... If I hear something wrong with these stewmac or am unstatisfied with the end result ... I’ll change them.

 

 

Will report back in a few weeks once this has been done.

 

 

Thanks for everyone’s input

 

JC