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Dave F

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A little rough.

I doubt that by the time you reset the neck and put a new back on it that it would be worth the investment.

 

 

 

 

MarketplaceMusical Instruments

1967 Gibson Hummingbird guitar

Owenton, KY · 55 minutes ago · $1,400

Beautiful vintage Gibson Hummingbird guitar. Damage to the back does not effect sound quality. Plays wonderfully! Asking $1400. Comes with gig bag. Less

 

 

 

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Cool old guitar. At least the seller states that the added soundport on the back doesn't affect the sound quality. Could be a little pickguard crack in the top by the fretboard extension.

 

What are those four drill marks in the back of the headstock/ headstock break repair area?

 

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With the headstock break, busted back, and in need of a neck re-set, it's not worth more than a few hundred dollars.

 

Agree - a candidate for a wall hanger in a Hard Rock Cafe in NYC. Already has tapped places for screwing it to the wall by the headstock.

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At what point does it stop being a classic guitar and start being firewood?

 

That’s way too rough for the money. Needs some major work to the back obviously, plus it’s in dire need of a neck reset and the fact that the neck block has moved and cracked the top (the neck angle is so far off that I don’t think it’s just a pickguard crack) is worrying too.

 

Even with all the work done, it’s worth shy of $2000 in my book, so $1400 plus a potential $800-1000 of work (neck reset, back repair, neck block repair, top repair, refret, bridge replacement with fixed saddle, cosmetic work) is in no way a deal that I’d do.

 

$750 tops, IMHO

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It does look like there is a distortion of the rosette under the fingerboard near the pickguard.

 

The serial number does indicate 1964, by which time a natural top version was available, so I am not sure where the 1967 date comes from.

 

I am not buying the gaping holes do not alter the sound. I have owned guitars with several open back cracks and some with tops starting to separate from the body and there was a noticeable loss in volume compared to what they sounded like after being repaired.

 

Price - as we are looking at a $5500 or so guitar in good condition, I would think $1400 not an unreasonable price if the neck is stable.

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Just curious - what does a neck reset run for this guitar?

 

$500-$600 for a neck set where I live.

 

Note also that the bridge appears to be tilted way forward, and it's split across the pins. It may be that the guitar suffered major trauma when the headstock broke, like whatever impact punched the hole in the back. Chances are there is internal damage as well, could be loose or broken braces.

 

 

It could be a nice project guitar--that's actually a classically-faded early cherryburst, not a natural top, if you look at the photo taken from the side.

 

 

Where I live, and what I can see, which doesn't include condition of frets and fretboard:

 

 

remove back and patch or replace, probably brace re-glue----- $600-750

 

new bridge and bridgeplate--- $450

 

assume for now that the headstock break is stable, although the three holes in the back of the headstock and the one below the neck break suggest there was a screwed-on reinforcing piece there at some point in the past.

 

re-set neck (note that these are the low-profile fat frets, which do not have a lot of latitude for wear)----$550

 

additional brace glue and crack repair/reinforcement, say -----$200

 

minimal cosmetic touch-up as required---- $200

 

Say your luthier gives you a break because of the size of the job, you're looking at about $2000 in repairs that you can see now.

 

Value? As ZW says, in good condition, with no broken headstock $4-5000, on the best day.

Good condition, with properly repaired busted headstock, maybe $3000.

 

Less $2k in obvious repairs, plus 20% repair contingency: max value $600-$750

 

 

I personally might pay $500 after inspection, if nothing else shows up, since it's a '64 with a nice top.

 

 

At best, it will be a decent player, but probably not as good a player as a new vintage-style 'bird.

 

There are too many decent 'birds out there to pay a lot for this one, with its obvious issues.

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I am glad I do not live were you guys do. I just had two neck resets done and they ran me $350 a pop here. My former repair guy used to hit me up for $300. One of the two guitars had a severely cupped neck (no truss rod) which ran me an additional $140 to have compression frets installed. I have repaired busted headstocks myself but only if the break is clean. If this one has had a previous break it might be wise to add splines if that has not already been done.

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lol

 

You could probably hold the guitar against your body and then move it away and if you do it quick enough get a wah wah effect though. I used to have fun with that pushing a separating top down with my arm while playing and then quickly letting it pop back up.

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There is a reborn guitar ahead ▸▸▸ ( o}==#

 

Without the headstock break, I would consider it. But there's no way to know how well that fix was done, and a bad fix is a lot worse than no fix. At least with a clean break you know where you're starting.

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Not the greatest pictures but I don't see evidence of the headstock crack on the front. It may be stable? Neck reset, again hard to say without it in hand. Bridge? Braces? Who knows? A good winter project for the capable person. The pickguard alone would probably fetch $4-500, ceramic saddle $75, hey we're on our way!

 

Edit:

P.S. my references show '61 for 22583. Can anyone point me to the dater that has a 5 digit serial as '64?

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Not the greatest pictures but I don't see evidence of the headstock crack on the front. It may be stable? Neck reset, again hard to say without it in hand. Bridge? Braces? Who knows? A good winter project for the capable person. The pickguard alone would probably fetch $4-500, ceramic saddle $75, hey we're on our way!

 

Edit:

P.S. my references show '61 for 22583. Can anyone point me to the dater that has a 5 digit serial as '64?

 

Cannot be a '61. Unless it is a custom shop guitar, the natural top finish was not available as an option in that year.

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Cannot be a '61. Unless it is a custom shop guitar, the natural top finish was not available as an option in that year.

As Nick mentions in post #13 this is a severely faded trad. cherryburst.

There probably are tiny evidence of that here and there, fx under the saddle.

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Thanks for that Nick! I should have said "5 digit 25*** indicates '64". My J50 #235** I have always thought a '61 (1 11/16" nut w/ slim profile neck, tall thin back braces, thinner, early '60s pickguard) without question.

I don't know zw, looks like the reluctant cherry 'burst, serial indicates '61, orange label inside, non-faded, "panzer" paint pickquard. I'm leaning '61 while not claiming anyone is wrong.

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