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" REPAIR " Broken neck of Gibson SG how torepair ???? HELP


CrackLevent

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Enjoy it once it's done, I saw the same guitar model in Guitar Center a few months back. '70s era, walnut with the embossed pups and Bigsby. It played great, but only the neck pup worked so I didn't get to hear what it fully sounded like.

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I've seen what age does to hide glues. It hardens and shatters, then basically turns to dust.

 

Like I said, I'd use wood glue, and so would any good pro luthier. You use whatever you want, but be careful recommending anything you don't have personal experience using.

 

BTW, it takes steam heat to melt wood glue. I've never seen a case where dry heat would affect it.

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It played great' date=' but only the neck pup worked so I didn't get to hear what it fully sounded like.[/quote']

 

 

As soon its done ill load up some pictures and video so you can hear how awesome it sounds.

 

This is SG Deluxe, rare one. :-

:D/

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I've seen what age does to hide glues. It hardens and shatters' date=' then basically turns to dust.

 

Like I said, I'd use wood glue, and so would any good pro luthier. You use whatever you want, but be careful recommending anything you don't have personal experience using.

 

BTW, it takes steam heat to melt wood glue. I've never seen a case where dry heat would affect it.[/quote']

 

 

Hide glue is wood glue.....it was wood glue long before aliphatic was a twinkle in the chemist's eye.

 

Be careful what you say, lest it be factually incorrect...

 

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Data/Materials/GlueTest/gluetest.html

 

Notice how Titebond creeps under tension before it reaches it's melting point.

 

Notice how when the joints fail in ambient temperatures, the Titebond separates cleanly on the glue line. The hide glue bond continues to hold, and the wood breaks away in a different place. The definition of a high strength bond in headstock repair is when the wood breaks in a different place.

 

A clear victory for hide glue over aliphatic, or 'wood glue' as you call it.

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Hide glue is wood glue.....it was wood glue long before aliphatic was a twinkle in the chemist's eye.

 

Be careful what you say' date=' lest it be factually incorrect...

 

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Data/Materials/GlueTest/gluetest.html

 

Notice how Titebond creeps under tension before it reaches it's melting point.

 

Notice how when the joints fail in ambient temperatures, the Titebond separates cleanly on the glue line. The hide glue bond continues to hold, and the wood breaks away in a different place. The definition of a high strength bond in headstock repair is when the wood breaks in a different place.

 

A clear victory for hide glue over aliphatic, or 'wood glue' as you call it. [/quote']

 

Was the test performed on new joints, or old joints? 20 0r more years of temp and humidity changes will destroy most hide glues, while the wood glue will continue to have enough elasticity to hold for many times as long.

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Franklin (who make Titebond), tested various glues by bonding rock maple blocks together. The blocks were sheared apart by a test machine. Hide glue was the strongest, followed by their most recent (and more expensive) polyurethane glue. An item was found joined with hide glue in Egypt from 2,700 BC. The joints were still tight.

 

Different glues have different advantages. My point is that broken headstocks create the worst nightmare scenario for people who love Gibsons. It's like a kick in the stomache to see these pictures, let alone experience this from an owners point of view. I think on balance, hot hide glue just has that little extra leeway in strength and temperature resistance to make it the number one choice. I looked into this in some detail, and if I find what I think is some interesting information I like to share it.

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Franklin (who make Titebond)' date=' tested various glues by bonding rock maple blocks together. The blocks were sheared apart by a test machine. Hide glue was the strongest, followed by their most recent (and more expensive) polyurethane glue. An item was found joined with hide glue in Egypt from 2,700 BC. The joints were still tight.

 

Different glues have different advantages. My point is that broken headstocks create the worst nightmare scenario for people who love Gibsons. It's like a kick in the stomache to see these pictures, let alone experience this from an owners point of view. I think on balance, hot hide glue just has that little extra leeway in strength and temperature resistance to make it the number one choice. I looked into this in some detail, and if I find what I think is some interesting information I like to share it.[/quote']

 

That's cool. I appreciate the info.

 

I'm sure that there are stronger glues around these days, and my carpentry experience ended about 14 years ago. The newest thing for many of the standard uses could very well have gone to synthetics.

 

The only drawback I can point out, would be the cleanup aspect for some synthetics. A repair that would be an easy affair for an amateur could turn into a nightmare, if the overspill cannot be easily removed.

 

Peace? [-(

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Try to look on ebay for a tremolo, maybe you can get lucky there.

 

I am glad to hear you went to a pro on this fix. This is not a cheap guitar where you want to start learning carpentry on. If it was a cheap $100 guitar, then I would say, go ahead a do it yourself, but this is a vintage guitar and it might be worth more than you think. If this neck is not repaired right, you will be damaging its resale value tremendously. The pro will fix it right and will hide the repair as best he can.

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It's ****ing ready and it's incredible!!

 

Respect to the pro!! =D>

 

The sound is like wooooooooow!!!!

 

Everything works (Pickup's, Electric, etc.) even if it's old

 

Really amazing

 

 

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All I need now is a original Gibson tremolo for SG Deluxe

 

But I will get it sooner or later. O:)

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