project Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I'm considering putting one on my les paul and I would like some opinions. Maybe something like this for example: http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/TonePros-Standard-TuneOMatic-Bridge-Small-Posts-with-Graph-Tech-Saddles?sku=300219 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzboy Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I have it on my 82 Les Paul Standard a long withe TP6 and it is an improvement over the stock one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 I have it on my 82 Les Paul Standard a long withe TP6 and it is an improvement over the stock one. Do you think it is wise to also go with a TonePros tailpiece? That is instead of mix and matching a TonePros bridge with the "standard" tailpiece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadhog96 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I'm considering putting one on my les paul and I would like some opinions. Maybe something like this for example: http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/TonePros-Standard-TuneOMatic-Bridge-Small-Posts-with-Graph-Tech-Saddles?sku=300219 I'm not to keen on set screws turning into the threads of the studs, I could see it possibly damaging them at some point. You asked for opinions and that's all it is. There are others on the market like these. http://cvguitars.com/Faber/faber.html http://www.cvguitars.com/Faber/CV-Faber%20Bridge%20Locking%20System.pdf http://www.callahamguitars.com/abr1.htm http://pigtailmusic.com/Products.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sok66 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I've been trying a set on my '72 LP Custom, which had a bowed bridge (not uncommon) and worn out tailpiece studs. The bridge is a major improvement over the ABR-1, more secure, a bit more adjustment range and secured saddles. No rattling wire either. Big increase in sustain. The tailpiece didn't seem to affect much of anything. I'll probably take it off at the next string change and put the original back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sok66 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 I've been trying a set on my '72 LP Custom, which had a bowed bridge (not uncommon) and worn out tailpiece studs. The bridge is a major improvement over the ABR-1, more secure, a bit more adjustment range and secured saddles. No rattling wire either. Big increase in sustain. The tailpiece didn't seem to affect much of anything. I'll probably take it off at the next string change and put the original back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 Thanks for your input guys. I'm not to keen on set screws turning into the threads of the studs, I could see it possibly damaging them at some point. You asked for opinions and that's all it is. There are others on the market like these. I agree about the screws going into the threads. It kinda seems like a bad design doesn't. Also, thanks for your suggestions. I've been trying a set on my '72 LP Custom, which had a bowed bridge (not uncommon) and worn out tailpiece studs. The bridge is a major improvement over the ABR-1, more secure, a bit more adjustment range and secured saddles. No rattling wire either. Big increase in sustain. The tailpiece didn't seem to affect much of anything. I'll probably take it off at the next string change and put the original back on. So the tailpiece didn't really make a difference huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 I have to admit that "Faber Locking Bridge" design makes more sense than the TonePros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzboy Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Do you think it is wise to also go with a TonePros tailpiece? That is instead of mix and matching a TonePros bridgewith the "standard" tailpiece? Yeah it was cause it made a huge improvement. Cause the original Tailpiece is not a real aluminum which is what I like to have on my Les Paul. I was told by the guys at WD that TP6 is the bridge works if you bridge piece screws into metal or the AVR-II if you bridge piece screw into the guitar wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sok66 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Thanks for your input guys. I agree about the screws going into the threads. It kinda seems like a bad design doesn't. Also' date=' thanks for your suggestions. So the tailpiece didn't really make a difference huh? [/quote'] I don't think you'll hear any difference. The studs are tighter in the bushings, so if it did anything at all that's where the gain is. The bridge, however, was a huge improvement over the old ABr-1 rattletrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uyasgali Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 I believe he has a nashville bridge thus no threads on the posts. The tonepros locking bridge works great if you have some slop between the post and the bridge. It makes everything tighter and more stable. The graphtech saddles are fragile so be carefull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sok66 Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Missed that, sorry. They make a Nashville replacement but I doubt even with the locking screws there'd be much improvement over the standard bridge. I may ahve mentioned before, the Tonepros ABR-1 replacements' biggest advantages are the slightly extended saddle travel and the locked in saddles themselves. No rattles, no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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