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Changing out the pickguard


Cla

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Ok, I'd like to get a new pick guard. My guitar was roughly $2k. How should I approach this. Gibson certified tech or some such? I'd like to do it myself if possible. What glue is used, and how do you pry the old one off. I could use a crowbar (tehehe, joke).

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If you've never done anything like this before, and your guitar is not a junker, better let a luthier do it. Any reputable luthier, it is not a Gibson-specific task. The type of glue depends on when it was made. You did not tell us anything about the guitar! In order to remove an old pickguard, you need the right kind of tool, like the one Stewart-MacDonald sells that looks like a butter knife with an offset handle so the handle clears the top. You must first score the lacquer around the edges with an Xacto blade, then very slowly and methodically work it loose without digging up any wood! (Hint: always work with the grain, never against. Get Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide", a must-have book, which has a discussion of grain orientation.) I have worked for days getting a P/G off. After it is off, the old glue needs to be removed, another slow process. (Water-soluble hide glue can be worked on with a wet sponge, paper towels,, and scapers.) Once the wood is clean and flat, it needs to be sealed with lacquer or shellac before a new guard is applied. Double-stick (carpet) tape is the modern method, or new guards can be purchased with double stick tape already applied, just peel and stick. (Position carefully!) You can also use 3M spray adhesive. I would practice on a junker guitar before attempting this on your baby. Brian

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This is a task that can be a bit tricky' date=' if you've never done it before. But you can do it, if you are careful. You might want to read through the information on this link to see if it's something you want to try.

 

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Pickguards/PeelGuard/peelguard.html[/quote']

 

Good recommednation. About all of the info from frets.com is sound advice for the do-it-yourselfer.

 

Just be glad though that the Pickguard wasn't the kind when it was put on first and THEN lacquered over...

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Just be glad though that the Pickguard wasn't the kind when it was put on first and THEN lacquered over...

 

No kidding. I've changed out a couple and have never had a problem. But then again, the old ones were starting to come off anyway, so it was pretty easy. The hardest part is sometimes finding a replacement that will match up around the rosette and getting it on straight.

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No kidding. I've changed out a couple and have never had a problem. But then again' date=' the old ones were starting to come off anyway, so it was pretty easy. The hardest part is sometimes finding a replacement that will match up around the rosette and getting it on straight.[/quote']

 

I've seen a few that went through the shrinkage and expansion phases and played havoc on the finish and the top wood underneath the guard. The one's that break though the lacquer have been the most interesting to see. It looks as if the guard exploded off of the guitar...

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I have seen some like that. I've just been fortunate that they weren't mine.

 

Somewhere over on the UMGF, there was a link to a repair that showed the process from start to end. It was very enlightling. More steps (and time) than I would have thought of. The customer was given the choice to put it back to spec (p/g under the finsih), or p/g over the finish. It was recommended over and thant is how it was completed. I'm sure I wouldnt want it back under either..

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Somewhere over on the UMGF' date=' there was a link to a repair that showed the process from start to end. It was very enlightling. More steps (and time) than I would have thought of. The customer was given the choice to put it back to spec (p/g under the finsih), or p/g over the finish. It was recommended over and thant is how it was completed. I'm sure I wouldnt want it back under either..[/quote']

 

When the prototypes of the Legend J-45 were first produced, the lacquer was applied over the pickguard so they could more closely represent the originals. Then they started having problems with the pickguards lifting on the prototypes so they then started installing the pickguards on top.

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When the prototypes of the Legend J-45 were first produced' date=' the lacquer was applied over the pickguard so they could more closely represent the originals. Then they started having problems with the pickguards lifting on the prototypes so they then started installing the pickguards on top. [/quote']

 

Goes to show sometimes contemporary methods are sometime better than historically correct, no matter how appealing the old stuff is...

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Goes to show sometimes contemporary methods are sometime better than historically correct' date=' no matter how appealing the old stuff is...[/quote']

 

Not only better, but it just seems to make common sense to do it that way. It's much easier to replace it, if needed. And if the lacquer on top method is done correctly, it's hard to really notice anyway.

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I successfully changed the pickguard on my J-45 for a tortoise batwing. I used a hair dryer and just kept slowly heating the point of the teardrop that ws on there. Once I could get a fingernail underneath, I just kept holding the guard up and moving the hairdryer around that spot. Eventually, it started to come up fairly quickly. Don't really pull on the guard too much, just slight pressure away from the wood and let the heat do the work. Came right off. Then I took Naptha and some old cotten sweat socks and cleaned all the old glue off. The top of the guitar was as clean as a whistle, shiny, looked like new finish and only a very slight tan line. The new pickguard had the sticky tape already on the back. I placed it down without taking the paper off and made a little "hinge" with a couple pieces of paper tape. This way you can lift the guard up, pull off the backing tape and then it will go right back down where you have the tape hinging it to the guitar top. I've never done it before and it worked out just fine. If I can do it, a labrador retriever can do it! I also got the batwing at Terrapin. Any good guitar tech can do it for you if you're not comfortable with the idea. Shouldn't cost you an arm and a leg either. Good luck!!

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Just be very careful if you use a hair dryer. It doesn't take long before it can get too hot and really cause problems.

 

Mike is correct. Don't put it on the highest setting and keep your hand moving so the heat isn't concentrated on one specific area too long.

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Just be very careful if you use a hair dryer. It doesn't take long before it can get too hot and really cause problems.

 

Good point. Wood can only take so much rapid heat before it reacts without too much notice.

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A luthier I know showed me the results of some kid trying to remove his sitckes off of his guitar with of all things' date=' one of these:

 

[img']http://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/medium/06/060810108.jpg?[/img]

 

 

It wasn't pretty!

 

I bet it did take the stickers off, though. It probably burned them right off. That was his goal, wasn't it? LOL Nevermind the guitar. ;)

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