ES-335 Tune-o-matic Bridge
Posted 16 April 2010 - 06:48 AM
Posted 16 April 2010 - 07:16 AM
Posted 16 April 2010 - 07:57 AM
Posted 16 April 2010 - 08:45 AM
As for your saddle problem, which I don't think is a big problem, just get another saddle if the one you have looks too messy. Another option would be to try Graph-tech's composite saddles. They're called string savers and I have them on my FB VII. That stopped all the string breakage I was suffering. And they seem to sound no different.
Posted 16 April 2010 - 04:44 PM
Don't do that. Properly installing a Nashville on your ABR-1 guitar involves drilling large holes for the adjusting post anchors and if you don't like the way it sounds, or looks, reversing the process is a major endeavor. Just order a set of replacement ABR-1 saddles and make a new one for your 6th string. The Nashville is a great bridge design, but very intrusive for a conversion.
The problem you have is a common one with ABR-1s, which have a host of other issues, too. Getting one set up right can drive you nuts, but it can be done. They impart a unique tone that is worth striving for. A few things I always do with ABR-1s:
1) replace the stock adjustment studs with longer stainless steel screws of the same thread pitch. I use 1 1/2" lengths, either cut from rod or from screws which I cut the heads off of. Double nut them and run the screws firmly to the bottom of the holes. This increases vibration transfer and the stronger screws won't bend towards the nut like the stock ones.
2) As needed, turn the saddles around until they can be intonated properly, without jamming them into the end of the slots. If you do the latter the screw will try to walk up towards the string. You'll likely have to cut new slots to get the strings spaced evenly.
3) Tighten up the retaining spring as much as possible. If necessary, make a new one out of an unwound thord string (.017" or heavier).
4) If the neck angle allows enough clearance under the bridge, use a second set of thumb wheels on the bridge studs, screwed tightly against the top of the guitar. These add more strength to the stud and increase vibration transfer to the top.
Lastly, if the bridge studs are improperly located (a common issue since the first ABR-1 was released in the '50s) and you can't get the bridge properly intonated, replace it with a Tonepros AVRII. Thes look virtually identical to an ABR-1, but use a NAshville-style clip to hold the saddle in place, and are just a bit wider, allowing more saddle travel.
Posted 17 April 2010 - 03:53 AM
I did a little research into the Tonepros AVRII. According to their description of that specific bridge, it still uses the spring like the ABR-1 and not the clip like the Nashville. I like the idea of the Nashville clip. I'm going to call them Monday to see if I the AVRII is available with a Nashville clip.
Posted 17 April 2010 - 05:09 AM
Posted 17 April 2010 - 06:19 AM
Posted 17 April 2010 - 07:01 AM
Thx, let's just say have a lot of experience w/ABR-1s!
BTW, the double thumbscrew idea is an old one, tried & true. You'll see this occasionally in photos of the old rockers' Gibsons. Dan Erlwine did an article years ago about the bridge posts. I must have stumbled on the idea back in the 60s when we had so many vintage Les Pauls, 335s, etc. with bridges that were tipping over towards the nut from string pressure. The stock posts are some kind of soft brass. They're not long enough to completely seat in the holes, which can vary in depth. When you do this mod, run the new stainless steel posts in until they seat (don't strip the threads in the wood). Then put the thumbwheels and bridge on, restring, set the action and mark the top of the postsat the top edge of the bridge. Disassemble, then trim off the excess post & polish off the ends.
Posted 17 April 2010 - 07:03 AM
The AVRII has "e" clips that hold the screws in place, very similar to the Nashville. The retaining wire on an AVRII is purely cosmetic, has no real function. It has the same post spacing as an ABR-1, too, but a bit more saddle travel, and, without the risk of the saddle adj screws walking up towards the strings.
I also forgot to mention, the ARVII offers the ability to lock the bridge to the post with a tiny allen screw. Some guys feel this is a major benefit, although I can't say I've noticed any difference one way or the other on the AVRIIs I have installed. The big benefit to me is the AVRIIs more solid design, freedom from the retainer wire slop & rattle, the locked down saddle screws and increased intonation travel. That last item has saved me from having to plug & re-drill bridge posts on a number of Gibsons.
Posted 19 April 2010 - 08:11 AM
I ordered the Tonepros AVRII from Sam Ash; it'll be here in two weeks. I'll let you know how it turns out. BTW, when the guy at Sam Ash called Tonepros, the person on the other end recommended TP6 or T3BT. When I went to their website and read what it said about them, I got a little nervous, so I insisted on the AVRII based on the website, but also, based on the recommendations on this thread.
Thanks again everyone.
Posted 23 May 2010 - 04:30 AM