k_amnell Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 I have an Epi Les Paul Classic. Does anyone know how to lower the action? Thansk in advance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfrets Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 The best advice I could offer is to buy a guitar set up & maintenence book, but in a nutshell... The proceedure involves lowering your bridge via the height screws or thumb wheels for the unit. However, you don't want to go at it all willy-nilly. The treble side will generally be lower than the bass side, but you want to avoid fret buzz at the same time. Once the action is set, I'd recheck the intonation (string length), which will also affect string tension and proper tuning. Depending on how far you drop the action, yor intonation will probably still be spot on (or very close), but I'm anal about tuning so I feel it's always best to check. Lastly, you may have to lower your pups a little (proper height above the polepieces is covered in the aforemetioned maintenence manual) to prevent unwanted distortion, nasty semi-tones and/or the string hitting the polepieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 I have an Epi Les Paul Classic. Does anyone know how to lower the action? Thansk in advance... Gibson has a website that tells how in detail. And I'd suggest you read through it.. it's pretty quick, nicely detailed and should get you what you want. What I always look at first is the nut slots.. if you depress any string at the 3rd fret, the distance between the bottom of that string and the 1st fret should be no more than a hair. If it's more, you aren't going to get your best adjustment. That is tech territory, for most, because the slots also have to be the correct width after you deepen them.. or the nut replaced if they are already too deep. * not likely * Gibson will give you spec on string height, both sides, and tell you how to adjust. I like to put a piece of masking tape over the screw heads so the screwdriver doesn't have a chance to scratch the chrome or chip it. Truss rod adjustment is a little trickier, but it's doable. The main thing is to not turn more than 1/8 turn at a time.. you can't use a metal rod to force wood to bend quickly, you have to sort of coax it along. But definately look for Gibsons instructions, I'm sure they'll cover everything. TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfrets Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 WOW!!! Twang, you say this info is available...FREE...on the INTERNET?!!? WHOA! And I'm still using BOOKS??? I feel so....old LOL!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-Type Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 All great advice above. Heres the link I use when doing my own setups. Im no tech or luthier but can setup and wire most my own instruments rather well. http://www.gibson.com/magazines/amplifier/1997/10/tipfile.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13yguitarman Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 You dont need no fancy books. im 13 and have set up my les paul classic trans-black perfectly along with my strat, tele, lp jr and many others all on own perserveirence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 You dont need no fancy books. im 13 and have set up my les paul classic trans-black perfectly along with my strat' date=' tele, lp jr and many others all on own perserveirence.[/quote'] LOL. You probably have the setup close, but it's just amazing how much difference a fret levelling/dressing job can make a guitar play. Turning a few screws can get you in the ball park, but there are going to be minute irregularities that prevent you from achieving a "perfect" setup without doing the entire job. Lots of players end up with a broken truss rod when they do their first setup. Reading and understanding the concepts involved are worth the time. There are more interdependencies in the adjustments than you at first realize. It's not rocket science, but needs to be understood fully before cranking the adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfrets Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 Dave, you hit the nail on the head. All kidding aside, that's why I refer to Dan Erlewine's maintenence manual instead of the 'net for specific set up info. It's because he covers all those interdepedencies. I can do a "ballpark" set up in about 20 minutes, but it's those fine details that will occupy a rainy afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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