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Synapse Guitar roll call

#1 User is offline   Mincercat 

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 05:54 PM

I have a red SS-2F Custom that I use daily for teaching and performing. I recently changed out the pickups from the EMGs to Duncans (a Custom Custom & Alnico Pro II with 5-way super switch). It is a lot more open and touch sensitive now, and while I lived with EMGs since I got this guitar (over a year ago), I am happy I switched.
Who else out there has a Synapse?
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#2 User is offline   trinity 

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Posted 29 May 2008 - 02:27 AM

I have a blue TranScale. I'm not going to swap out the pickups, however, as I think they are well-matched to the piezo that is on the TS. The piezo does allow me, however, to open up and brighten up the tone, so I like it a lot.
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#3 User is offline   baatkarlo 

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Posted 31 March 2010 - 02:16 PM

I have a red Synapse SS-2FPA which is about a year old. I use D'Addario nickel flatwound 10's on it after trying out the medium baritone double headers from Steinberger and finding that the 6th didn't fit in the groove on upper end of the neck. I am very happy with the EMG/Piezo blendable sound - just have to watch the batteries don't fade and drop the output on these, that's all. The sound opens up dramatically with the acoustic piezo on the bridge. I adjusted the action on the guitar by tweaking the three screws on the bridge and it plays like butter now. There were some buzzing issues which I resolved by adjusting the tension on the roller capo/nut as well. It is my favorite guitar out of seven I own, including a Gibson Robot first run limited edition.

When I want to get gnarly, I just use my Roland GT-8 with amp sim to get the sound dirtied up.
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#4 User is offline   Eagle 

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Posted 06 April 2010 - 08:35 PM

I have a SS2F that is usfull as a travel guitar but the frets had to go (too small and over beveled on the ends ,standard crapiphone work.)The neck is as fat as hell too even thicker than a R7 Goldtop. I referetted it with SS 6100 and it feels like a guitar now instead of a toy.

Posted Image

I think I just might have to shave the neck down a bit if I can work out how big the graphite U section is .Not too much just down to a lamp post.[biggrin]
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#5 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 06 April 2010 - 10:29 PM

Hi!
Looks like that you've got a nice fret work done here, congrats!
However, shaving the neck, even a little a bit, may prove too risky, considering how critical are the neck adjustments on Synapses, so I guess that the tensions balance could be messed when doing this...
Some of the the four different materials involved (neck and fingerboard woods, truss rod and carbon) may have been kept near to their limits regarding that balance, I hope that you'll see what I mean...

Cheers, JPB
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#6 User is offline   Eagle 

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 02:46 AM

I do it for a living, I hate working with stainless steel fret wire but it is worth it ,and while I did it I took the opportunity to re radius the board to 20". I'm not at all phased by any of it except the depth I can go. The graphite U section and a rod at rest (no tension,)would keep this thing straight if it where a one way rod . I know Synapse rods break easily and this is probably down to a combination of poor parts and increased tension due to the graphite U section. I also rewired it with a CRL switch and CTS pots (finally available in 25KA.) This guitar could be so good but the final few details let it down badly and the QC is highly suspect. If this had a neck that was similar to a Am Std Strat it would not always receive the" F%$£ Me that neck is huge comment ,"I always get now then maybe it would get off the ground. Mine now plays flawlessly and sounds good as well but the neck really dose put EVERY person who ever saw it off immediately.
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#7 User is offline   Eagle 

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 02:58 AM

Posted Image

Here is CA Blade I just re fretted SS6100 and re radius-ed to 20" as well.

Posted Image
The Other Bergers I have at the moment .
GM7TA from 98 last real ones.
and GL2 Hardtail mint (Rotosound had it in there office for 20 years before I got it.)
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#8 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 05:56 AM

Yes, stainless steel is a though material to deal with on any part and frets are no exception, however the good side of the same thoughness it's the extremely low wear and obviously no tarnish, so it's well worth the effort to finish all those frets, they'll last almost forever and they look fantastic too. Do you use regular fret files for working on the stainless steel, or diamond ones?

Regarding the SS-2F neck, even thought I cannot do any comparison with the SS-2FPA Transcale baritone neck, I would dare to suppose that, aside from the roller capo slots in the latest, both necks may have equal cross-sections at the same given distances from the bridge.
So a wider C neck (and accordingly fat) as preferred for the baritone considerably longer scale (Warmoth took this into consideration for their baritone conversion necks), would become too fat for the shorter 25 1/2" scale, and useless...
This is only a supposition as I said, based not only on what you've described, but also several other owners have complained about this, across the time.

Last but not least, congratulations for your array of Steinbergers, that GL-2 hardtail must be quite rare, also because much probably it's a hardtail specific body, same as those made for the TracTuner 12-string hardtail bridge.
Cheers, JPB
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#9 User is offline   Eagle 

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 06:17 AM

I use Files I converted myself ,old school airy of triangular needle files with "safe"edges .I find the ones that are purpose made go blunt very quick and the diamond dust comes off too easily . I smooth the edges of the best needle files with a ceramic knife sharpening "steel". Yes the GL body is unique ,even the top plate has a different footprint for the milled steel bridge.
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#10 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 06:55 AM

Hi!
I also do have such a converted triangular file, a bit bigger than a needle file so it has a handle, but had already thought about converting a needle file, only didn't because I'm not a professional and don't use this very often, then a slightly bigger file with a handle also provides more control, I think.

By the way, there's a factory in my country that makes among the best needle files available on the World, in fact two brands from the same family, with a traditional high quality often compared to the famous Swiss-made Vallorbe files, first factory now closed was Tomé Feteira (shirt collar logo) and now it's Duarte Feteira (DF in star logo). They export about 90% of their production, so their files aren't too easy to find (mostly needle types) in their own country, anyway I've got my source :-)

Yet about both Synapse guitar necks, I guess that sooneer or later you'll be able to compare their cross sections...
Cheers, JPB
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#11 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 04:55 AM

Hi again, Eagle!

Yet about that Synapse guitar, neck width subject, could you please measure this at the zero and 22nd frets on your SS-2F?
I supose that you'll have calipers for getting accurate measures, to the tenth of a millimeter is more than enough.

Tomorrow I'll be able to compare these with the measures on the Transcale neck (although it seems it's a pre-production unit) and will report.
Thanks, cheers, JPB
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#12 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 04 June 2010 - 12:02 AM

Hi!

Well, here are the measures for Transcale neck:

Fret Width (mm) Depth (mm)
0 42.3 21.9
2 44.4 22.4
12 51.8 25.5
22 56.2 -
24 56.7 -

This is a pre-production guitar so I cannot be sure about these measures being the same on later production units.
In the case of the SS-2F, only the measures for the 0, 12 and 22 frets will be needed for comparison.

Cheers, JPB
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#13 User is offline   Eagle 

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Posted 04 June 2010 - 05:11 AM

I couldn't stand it any longer so I shaved it to a more reasonable size (still chunky but not stupid.) It was quite easy I made a set of templates and launched in . It worked out nice and you can't tell because I got a near perfect match on the paint. Now it is about the same size as the wide fat neck on my PRS CU22. This is now a really nice guitar but I might as well have built the thing from scratch with all the alterations I've had to do to get it right. I think this guitar could be so much better than they are stock .I 'm used to playing my GL so this felt like S$%T hen I got it .I would have sent it straight back if not for the fact that I got it from the old distributer at 30% off trade. I will take some pics and post them.
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#14 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 04 June 2010 - 05:29 AM

Hi!

Oh I see, and also recall how you were willing to shave the neck of your SS-2F, so these data came too late for a comparison... :-)
Unless you'll take the measures as it is now, just to see the differences...

Could you please tell me about the matt black finish you've used for the neck?
I need to touch up this Transcale at some places and have no cue about the paint/varnish to use, except that it's a rather slightly brownish matt black, if we can say so, and it must be PU for sure...
I'll keep waiting for seeing those new photos, thanks, cheers,
JPB
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#15 User is offline   Eagle 

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Posted 04 June 2010 - 11:04 PM

Car plan satin off the gun poly ,but mine was masked in to the edge of the neck joint to hide any difference.
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#16 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 09:25 AM

Hi!

Thanks for your response, but I have no exact idea on what is "car plan satin off the gun", do you mean it was a sprayable black poly satin finish (no matt varnish needed)?
Could you please tell the brand and reference? Is it of the two components kind?
Thanks, cheers,

JPB
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#17 User is offline   Eagle 

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Posted 06 June 2010 - 10:36 PM

Car plan is the brand ,I got a small amount from a friend so I don't have the reference . It is one bottle satin drying (no matt overspray needed.)You can get at in spray cans as well,it drys hard in the same time as a nitro guitar lacquer would.
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#18 User is offline   headlost 

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 05:35 AM

Hi Eagle!

Thanks, I went to search that brand and all paints seem to be acrylic, which usually do end peeling off when applied on the PU undercoat (already happened to me with another guitar)...
Cheers,
JPB
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#19 User is offline   wrayzor 

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 07:12 PM

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