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Rewiring Epi Les Paul


JLHooker

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I installed a Gibson 57 classic and a classic plus humbucker in my Epiphone Les Paul a couple of years ago.I didn't change the wiring,pots or caps.It has a good tone but not as good as my Gibson LP.Can I improve the tone by changing the pots and caps?

Thanks for any advice on this

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I've replaced pots & caps(switches, jacks, wiring too) with good quality replacements and always had positive,noticable results. I just recently put an RS kit in a Epi SG Vintage G400 and left the Epi pups in - at this time I don't have any plans to swap them out.

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Welcome to the forum [biggrin]

 

yes, it is worth changing all the wiring and pots for good quality after market replacements if you want to get the best from your pick-ups.

 

keep us posted on how it all works out. I have to take this opportunity to say that we are very fond of pictures here. [thumbup]

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I've replaced pots & caps(switches, jacks, wiring too) with good quality replacements and always had positive,noticable results. I just recently put an RS kit in a Epi SG Vintage G400 and left the Epi pups in

RSguitarworks does have some nice stuff.

At their prices, many might consider them "snake oil" but every review I have read, from people that use them, say

that they love them and are well worth the few extra bucks.

 

You can order their parts in kits but you have to know what you want. For Epi Les Pauls they sell both short modern and short vintage.

Both kits also come in "Upgrade Kits" and "Complete Upgrade Kits".

I do not recommend the Complete Upgrade as it comes with a long switchcraft switch. Short is better in an Epi L.P.

You might be able to contact them and get them to swap them out.

 

RS are also CTS. That means you will need new knobs as yours are metric.

You will also have to open up your holes sightly as they are 3/8"

Most of the time that is it, although once in a while...(and this has happened to me)...

The short CTS (which you need for an Epi L.P.) are just slightly shorter than your stock metrics.

Most of the time this is not a problem. On occasion I have had too deepen the control cavity just slightly where a pot sits with a spade bit. (not for the faint of heart as you do not want to drill through your guitar) It's really no big deal if you take your time. We are talking less than 1/16".

Cutting the "nib" off the top of the pot also helps.

 

They also sell their stuff individually if you want to set up your own kit:

http://store.rsguitarworks.net/index.php

 

You can also buy the parts individually at:

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/

If you go with vintage wire they also sell you 5' instead of 4'.

 

Once you sort it all out it really isn't as complicated as it sounds.

An couple hours of changing parts and soldering is about all it takes.

If you just want to replace the pots with better quality metrics others here may be of more help than I.

 

Willy

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Here's the first of several videos on guitar pots, how they work, and why changing them can make a positive difference.

 

 

I also recommend checking out this guy's other videos on guitar electronics. Pickups, pots, caps, switches, jacks, wiring, and quality solder joints are all parts of the tone chain within the guitar.

 

I don't believe there is such a thing as a "perfect" recorded demonstration on these things. It's something you have to compare for yourself, with your own gear and your own playing. However, I do believe that Epiphone pots, switches, and jacks are substandard. The OEM caps may or may not be your favorites. They're really easy to check, though, with a pair of jumpers and an assortment of caps.

 

Also, here's johnplanetz' video series on capacitors:

 

 

He covers a lot of details here. Of course it's not easy comparing these things on a semi-hollow body guitar. It's much easier on a Les Paul, where you can easily access the electronics by removing the rear covers.

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