bassetman Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 First shot at multi colour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Neck is set. Everything lined up perfect no shimming or sanding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Neck is set. Everything lined up perfect no shimming or sanding That looks pretty darn awesome man... Good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Did you ever notice that watching glue dry is less interesting than watching paint dry? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 All together but have to wait till Monday to see how it sounds. I like to let the neck set go two days before full tension. Strings are just tight enough to mount the pickups . Feels great to hold, very stable against you. My bridge is very close to the body with the strings at play height. Only about a 1/16th from the bottom. Should get some more relief as I tune it up. Very slight back bow at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Ahh man... Not cool.. My neck went wrong Not happy about it but s**t happens.. Was a router issue (funny we were talking about that) and I ended up basically trimming too far.. We are talking a mm or so (cos I realised what was happening quick) but it was too late.. Not recoverable... Soooooo New neck got done today And now instead of looking something like this It will now look more like this So while im not happy (and its a waste of money I don't really have) this new neck actually has much nicer grain... The old one once I cut it to size you couldn't see any of the black streaks it just looked like white korina... this new one will look more like the body.. And im not going to make a guitar that isn't right so.. had to be done. Hey ho... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 The difference between good and awful is not very much. Hope the new neck is a good one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 The difference between good and awful is not very much. Hope the new neck is a good one. Yeah its not the first time its happened.. And while im using these sort of hand tools it probably wont be the last... So I just have to take it as part of what im trying to do... These things only tend to happen when I have a tool that's on the way out.... But check the patterning on this new neck.. I wasn't lying :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Send it to me for a look. I promise to return it. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Haha lol.. if you lived over here youd be more than welcome to come and try it :) So back to the build. New neck done Check the radius which needs a bit more (this board came pre slotted and radiused or it was meant to :)) Sorted Then I oil (lemon) and fret it Then I tidy up the ends with a special file tool thingy.. First you do it this way to get the ends flush with the board Then you use it this way to get a nice angle on the ends (I will fret level and round off the ends later in the build) Then I do the tenon and neck and body become one :D NICE :) so this is really taking shape now.. Tomorrow I will drill and route the rest of the holes and shape the neck.. Then theres lots and lots of sanding to do to get the body ready for its finish .. Cant wait for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Can't wait to see that neck when it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 That 45° file is sweet Rabs! I think I'll make one to take care of the fret ends on my Squier bass. Great idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 That 45° file is sweet Rabs! I think I'll make one to take care of the fret ends on my Squier bass. Great idea Yeah it does the job really well.. Ive been using it since day one and it still works ok. Even though I think I could probably do with new one... Not expensive either https://www.amazon.co.uk/Degree-Fret-Bevel-Tool-Guitar-x/dp/B00E21JFZO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1487212007&sr=8-6&keywords=fret+file But if you can make one all the better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 So heres the latest.. I am updating this build on that other thread.. Didn't mean for it to turn into a full build thread but it just kind of happened cos I wanted feedback on my first carve top and I know not everyone reads this thread.. But this is the more detailed version for anyone who wants to know a bit more detail. Body is glued to the neck.. All is well :) Then its time for the pickup cavities... I mark the position out using pickup rings ( I mark the inside line) and I had the bridge on there too so I know exactly how much room I have Then I get some double sided tape on my template and stick it down (I did also clamp the edges just in case.. Double sided tape can be a bit temperamental And line it up with my markers Sorted Bridge holes Also started on the neck profile More in the next post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Then I mark the headstock out And what I do is drill from the top so the bit is just poking through That then gives me the exact position to drill from the back.. Doing it this way you avoid splintering the wood as you go through to the back... This gives you nice clean holes Then I did the same for the controls Sorted :) And on a side note for anyone who cares.. The guitar weighs 7lbs exactly at the moment.. Still a fair chunck of wood to come off the neck yet though.. I reckon (hope :)) it comes it at about 9/10lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 lots of progress Rabs!! That's cool man About drilling the tuner holes, I hate that when the wood splinters out the back. At work I have to drill like a million holes through our doors and drawers when I'm installing the hardware, and so I've tried a few different solutions. The most common solution is to clamp a piece of scrap wood to the underside/back side of whatever you're drilling, and that will keep it from splintering. What I do now though is a lot faster because I found a bit that just drills through without splintering. If you can find a "boring" bit in the diameter you need, get it!! The ones I use are from our boring machine (love that name) and they're 5mm. That's probably too small but if it's the right size let me know and I'll send you one. Anyway, they have a pointed tip which drills cleanly through the back side. I freakin love those bits! Such a time saver! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 lots of progress Rabs!! That's cool man About drilling the tuner holes, I hate that when the wood splinters out the back. At work I have to drill like a million holes through our doors and drawers when I'm installing the hardware, and so I've tried a few different solutions. The most common solution is to clamp a piece of scrap wood to the underside/back side of whatever you're drilling, and that will keep it from splintering. What I do now though is a lot faster because I found a bit that just drills through without splintering. If you can find a "boring" bit in the diameter you need, get it!! The ones I use are from our boring machine (love that name) and they're 5mm. That's probably too small but if it's the right size let me know and I'll send you one. Anyway, they have a pointed tip which drills cleanly through the back side. I freakin love those bits! Such a time saver! Ohh cool man, didn't know about that so thanks for the info, I will look in to it Usual tuner holes are 10mm... But hey I don't mind my method it works and is easy.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Rabs if I see one I'll get it for you as a belated Christmas present :) In other news, my Revibe build is super ultra low noise which I'm really happy about but I was getting a really annoying ground loop buzz when I connected it to my 5e3 build. I tried disconnecting the shield from one lug of the cable I was using to connect them together, but that just made the noise worse. So I was researching solutions, but I didn't want to do something that would compromise the safety of my Revibe or 5e3. The best solution I could find was the ebtech humX, which would set me back about $80. I thought surely I could make that myself, but the information was really hard to find on what the humX actually is doing. After some persistent googling, I found the gold nugget of info I was looking for from a guy that broke open his humX. According to him, the ground pins in the humX are just separated by an antiparallel pair of 6A 1000V diodes and a 1/2W 1K resistor parallel to the diodes. So I went to Home Depot, got this enclosure, receptacle, and nice heavy duty power cable for $15. I used a grommet and terminal strip that I had on hand, resistor that I had on hand, and ordered 10 of the diodes for $3 off eBay. So all in all this cost me $18 vs $80 which I love The result is perfect! My ground loop is gone, and all that annoying noise is gone! Here are a couple obligatory pics, except they kinda suck because it's pouring rain right now and I didn't want this getting soaked. Not the prettiest thing, but it works great. If you do this, don't solder the ground wire from the cord to the grounded tab on the terminal strip or you will defeat the purpose of the unit by shorting the grounds together (unless you use an isolated receptacle) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Rabs if I see one I'll get it for you as a belated Christmas present :) In other news, my Revibe build is super ultra low noise which I'm really happy about but I was getting a really annoying ground loop buzz when I connected it to my 5e3 build. I tried disconnecting the shield from one lug of the cable I was using to connect them together, but that just made the noise worse. Really.. Wow that would be amazing :) And I would comment on your gizmo but im really not sure what it even is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Just a quickie today... Did the wiring holes... Cos this is a solid body with no cap I have to use a long drill bit... The other way to do it is to drill through the tenon hole.. Straight through to each pickup cavity and then from the bridge pickup cavity to the control cavity (which is usually easy to do from the bridge cavity cos its its only a small distance to the control cavity) So I draw lines on the body which I will line up with a long drill bit But first I need an output jack hole :) Which I drill with a 22mm spade or flat head bit. And I test the cover fits over it ok (which I know it will but you always check anyway) So there we are, pretty much done. I still need to do the back plate, finish the neck profile and then the full final sanding. And heres the neck so far.. Not too far off More tomorrow (hopefully :)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 And todays update. Made a back plate.. Don't need to explain the pics I think.. All fairly obvious :) And then more on the neck profile Almost there.. Just the final neck shaping and final body sanding to go.. Then I can add the oil :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Cannot wait to see some oil on it . Should be gorgeous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Is there any reason that the bobbins in a humbucker could not be made of wood? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Is there any reason that the bobbins in a humbucker could not be made of wood? Nope.. Check this vid at 4:23 in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Perfect video, thank you. Waiting on the wood to retry the 335 top. Using pics of the split one for tuner and pot knobs. Wanted to try a set of black Limba bobbins and pickup holders. Give me a chance to play with the new router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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