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Dub-T-123

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Cool! How did I not see this befor?

 

First time posting it over here.

 

 

I built it back in Dec. I fell in love with my jackson clone I built in July, I decided I should have another.

 

I have become a total Warmoth snob.

 

Jackson Clone

 

Sold my SG and Jr. to buy this set of parts.

I also need some better pics.

 

The Widows Son

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  • 4 weeks later...

Spent the rainy afternoon listening to UFO and building some turret boards for booster pedals.

The largest one will be a Big Toe, the medium one a Baby Fat, and the smallest a Big Shot.

Good music and good beer sure makes the work enjoyable. [biggrin]

 

 

IMG_3663.jpg

 

IMG_3666.jpg

 

IMG_3664.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I got a good sized lot of Texas Instruments 2N404 germanium transistors and boy they test out well. I've got about 40 top knotch germanium fuzz faces right here (not counting all of my other germs). They sound super good! Time to get building

 

EE1DB281-0CAC-4E7C-AA37-5AE71F7DA4BA_zpshzfw9fdd.jpg

68EE7F16-529F-4B28-8C1C-EE630041282D_zps0kitbsr9.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's the first pedal to use the 2N404 from this stash

 

7F8A4EC6-678D-4528-A682-BA472C4532B9_zpsglwg83yw.jpg

 

It's basically just a fuzz face with a different fuzz control. It can be used as a clean-ish boost or face melting fuzz. It's the best sounding fuzz face I've made yet!

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Hey Dub, you ever use any of those electrical components i gave you?

Yeah, there was some pretty cool stuff in there, but unfortunately my cat threw up right into the box so I just threw it away. It was gross. I had already pretty much picked all the good stuff out anyways at that point.

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Dude, your builds are so clean. That looks great, every time I solder in tight spaces it looks like a rats nest.

Thanks dude. It's a pain. I use as few wires as I can get away with

 

I bought 100 transistors to make a bunch of these. The transistors are so good, I'm buying 100 more. There not too noisy, pretty temp stable, and best of all their distortion is just harmonically rich and smooth (not fizzy)

 

And here's for you surfpup. Thanks bud!

C831A0EC-68CE-43B7-A5E7-96B3096E90F6_zps6le7djjw.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just built this overdrive which is a Tube Screamer with the input and output buffers removed and a charge pump. The charge pump takes a regular 9v power supply and internally doubles it to 18v, and you get some increased headroom with the higher voltage

 

B60157FA-06CB-43DC-B865-7CA4C6F32B9D_zpszqux0jcv.jpg

1FEF7D5F-E59D-4EA5-B905-6DBC570A87DD_zpsvnssejrb.jpg

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Thanks! The "Astro Fuzz Unit" is a Easy Face fuzz that my buddy Matt got cheap on eBay years ago. It's his favorite fuzz (and he's had all the good stuff like DAM etc) and he wanted me to clone it for him. I cloned it, then ended up going for an all germanium configuration instead of the Easy Face's hybrid design. It sounds great. Like seriously really great

 

The silver vein is a finish by pedalpartsplus.com

 

As soon as I got my first order of powdercoated enclosures from them, I gave up spraying my own finishes. Their finishes just rule

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I want to mod my Crybaby Wah again, I did the gain, vocal and midrange mods but I find it too gainy and the midrange boost furthers the perceived increase in volume.

 

Rather than reversing the mods I would like to make them switchable so I can have more options, I'll play with resistors values but what kind of switches do I need? I was about to order SPDT on/on switches but I see some pics of modded pedals that have mini switches up to 9 prongs, all I need is 3 prongs right?

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Essentially switching between 2 resistor values. I figured the SPDT toggle would save some space.

 

Isn't the center pin common? And then I would add a resistor on each side and toggle between them.

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Yep you've got it

 

Though personally I'd use a DPDT for that

 

Normally I'd use an SPDT but that's because I design my layout to accomodate it without the need for "flying leads" off the resistors. In this case if you use an SPDT, you'll have two resistors coming off the board going to your switch. With a DPDT you just have two wires coming from the board and the resistors are neatly soldered to the switch

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No, it would be like this (ignore the values listed)

 

photo-2450.jpg

 

The problem with the method that you described is that when one resistor is engaged, the other is shorted out so basically in either position the signal will follow the path of least resistance and have no resistance at all

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Ha, I don't know what I was thinking with the wiring I suggested. Then again I have been pounding beers at the beach all this week.

 

Thanks, your wiring makes sense. So with a DPDT you'd have each resistor at the end pins.

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It was a great try actually. I had to really ponder if it would work because it would be a neat way to use SPDT

 

Yeah with a DPDT if our pins are

 

1 2

3 4

5 6

 

The we would have a resistor between 1 and 2, a resistor between 5 and 6, and then wires from 3 and 4 going to the board

 

If you're switching a cap, I'd use DPDT on-off-on that way you can have 3 settings. The middle (off) position can be stock, and the outer positions can add a cap in parallel (which adds the capacitance of two caps together).

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My son made me a gorgeous guitar stand for Christmas 2012. He's decided to build more, but he's not sure how to market them. I think he should start a website, but with only 2 stands to display, he doesn't think he's ready for one. We'd appreciate any marketing advice and your opinions of the design - constructive criticism is welcome too. The laminating, bending, and construction process would be the same, but each stand will be custom made and no two would be identical.

 

Here's the cherry prototype: th_DBWoodsStand002.jpg This is the new oak stand (click for Photobucket link):th_2a5ece5f-bf2b-435d-8174-eced0db5634d.jpg

 

The oak was steam bent, then laminated and glued; this technique provides a very stable structure by staggering the grain during the bending process. The main connections on the neck and base are doweled and glued so no screws can be seen from the front or back. Both glue and screws were used to attach the rails from the bottom. Five coats of shellac give it a beautiful finish.

 

 

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