bassetman Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Well, I have a good idea why the called them "F" holes...though I think "MF" holes fits better. Fourth try. Fake binding made from epoxy and micro balloons. Can't decide if I should do the rest of the sunburst or leave it yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Woah that is badass!!! How did you form the "arch"? I like the yellow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I blatantly cheated and had a friend CNC them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 That is some awesome stuff going on right there (CNC or not :)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 First shot of finish just out of the "booth" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badbluesplayer Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 According to him, the ground pins in the humX are just separated by an antiparallel pair of 6A 1000V diodes and a 1/2W 1K resistor parallel to the diodes. That's how they isolated the ground on the Fender '63 Reverb reissue units. The old units will hum unless you modify them with the two diodes and the ground isolation resistor. On the Reissues they use a 15 ohm resistor. Anyway, good solution! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtim Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Very pretty!! First shot of finish just out of the "booth" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Yo... Heres the latest... I spotted a design issue with my placement of the control knobs cos two of them are right on the hump of the carve <a href="http://s1173.photobucket.com/user/Rabs2010/media/2017%20work/DSC_2069_zpsypk6yvon.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r588/Rabs2010/2017%20work/DSC_2069_zpsypk6yvon.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_2069_zpsypk6yvon.jpg"/></a> Obviously like that neither the toggle or vol knob will sit correctly So I outlined the area I need to flatten and go at it with my sander And hey presto :) It means ive had to change the shape of the carve a bit in that area but I think it looks ok and once the hardware is on you wont see it as much anyway Then I gave the body a good sanding with 400 grit sandpaper to clean up any scratches More below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Looking pretty good and almost ready to go Then on to the neck. I got it as close as I thought by feel then used the callipers to check that the taper was consistent down the neck So there we are.. Pretty much ready for its oil.. Still some minor sanding to do (yes, sanding never ends) and we can get some oil on this sucker :) More soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 What final grit size do you use? I've been going to 1500 or so with hand rubbed finishes. Was wondering where you think the real benefit ends. Is it better to start with a very smooth surface and apply minimum finish or do more final sanding? Ebony peg head overlay arrived. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 What final grit size do you use? I've been going to 1500 or so with hand rubbed finishes. Was wondering where you think the real benefit ends. Is it better to start with a very smooth surface and apply minimum finish or do more final sanding? Well actually its pretty smooth just going up to 400... As you can see from the above pics.. I think mainly you just want the surface to be flat and have no scratches... Now all the scratches are out I will do the hand sanding with 600 grit... Id say that's smooth enough to start finishing.. Using anything above 1000 and you are talking polishing.... so to be honest im not sure how much benefit there is in going above 600 (and you could probably get away with 400). I do my fretboards to 1200... and at that grit they shine by the end.. But I do that cos they are usually Ebony or Rosewood so they wont get any further finishing after the frets go on (apart from a coat of lemon oil). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Disaster averted. Spilled black on it so had to do a fast sun burst. I haven't cleaned the binding yet. My first shot at shooting nitro lacquer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 While I was set up to spray I shot the burst on the Explorer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Good stuff.. Love the explorer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassetman Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Finally got the nerve to shoot it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 New African Walnut body blank on the way :) Hmmmmmmmmmm At this moment im thinking of doing a second carved top like the above one.. BUT I also have a lovely Spalted and a Flamed maple top to use too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Oppps... I did it again However this was too good to pass up.. Theres a tiny crack at the top which I will cut out anyway.. And cos of that crack its half price of what it should be :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Went and got the wood today... Hmmmmmmmmmmm Walllllnuuuuutttttt :) LOOK AT THAT!! :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Looks nice. The walnut that I get usually has a lot more variation in color Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Looks nice. The walnut that I get usually has a lot more variation in color Well according to the guy I bought it from, its very old growth and theres not much around that looks like that period... and indeed I haven't seen Walnut quite like it before.. Looks very much like a darker Sapele. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Well according to the guy I bought it from, its very old growth and theres not much around that looks like that period... and indeed I haven't seen Walnut quite like it before.. Looks very much like a darker Sapele. Sounds expensive! Are you planning on adding any color or just clear? Btw I FINALLY got the router bit for my cabs lol I'm hoping to build the Revibe cab on Saturday and if I'm lucky I can start finishing Saturday or Sunday. Still going with pine so nothing exotic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 Sounds expensive! Are you planning on adding any color or just clear? Btw I FINALLY got the router bit for my cabs lol I'm hoping to build the Revibe cab on Saturday and if I'm lucky I can start finishing Saturday or Sunday. Still going with pine so nothing exotic Cool.. Yeah, despite what people say, theres nothing wrong with a nice bit of pine... I have always liked the look of it... :) And actually the wood wasn't that expensive... Much the same as any nice looking body blank.. and actually the bigger bit was even cheaper.. If you look at the pic you will see that theres a small area that's circled on the top.. That's where theres a small split.. but its very small and I think it will get cut out anyway (hoping its not too deep).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Cool.. Yeah, despite what people say, theres nothing wrong with a nice bit of pine... I have always liked the look of it... :) And actually the wood wasn't that expensive... Much the same as any nice looking body blank.. and actually the bigger bit was even cheaper.. If you look at the pic you will see that theres a small area that's circled on the top.. That's where theres a small split.. but its very small and I think it will get cut out anyway (hoping its not too deep).. If you drill a hole through the end of the crack, it will stop it from spreading further down the piece while you work on it. The pine is a little knotty as usual I'm hoping it doesn't give me too many problems taking the stain lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 If you drill a hole through the end of the crack, it will stop it from spreading further down the piece while you work on it. Ahhh cool, cheers for that.. The thing is that I really don't think it will get in the way anyway.. The blank is like 19" long, I only need 16".. So im hoping it will just be part of the off cuts.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Ahhh cool, cheers for that.. The thing is that I really don't think it will get in the way anyway.. The blank is like 19" long, I only need 16".. So im hoping it will just be part of the off cuts.. Do you normally work with inches or are you just having mercy on me? Or has luthiery forced you to use inches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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