Tuning instability issues...
Posted 13 December 2011 - 08:34 PM
I don't know what else it could be? I am a little bit less than satisfied at the moment. My inexpensive $200 ibanez does not have this issue, or any issues for that matter. I can bend the strings until they all but break and the strings always go back in tune.
What can be done about this?
Posted 13 December 2011 - 08:46 PM
I could try it, but that sounds to me like only a temporary fix. The fact that this even happens commonly baffles me. How can an American made guitar have these kinds of issues frequently when outsourced guitars made in India or China don't? Is it a design flaw or what?
Now I am not saying over-seas made guitars dont have their share of issues, they do. But those also do not cost over 2 grand... AND I have heard of this tuning instability before, and quality control issues regarding Gibson. But I didn't believe it before I bought mine.
Posted 13 December 2011 - 08:49 PM
There are a few things you can do to maintain tuning stability.
1 clean the nut slots. There's no need for lubricants or graphite on a well cut nut. Just keep the slots clean. All lube does is attract dust and grime. It's great for a week or a month, then the grime builds up and you get a sticky nut. Far better off to never put the stuff in the nut slots in the first place.
A great way to clean a nut slot is by using dental floss.
2 keep your string winds round the tuning posts to a minimum. I go an inch past the post that I'm going to wind on to and cut my string off at that point. It gives a couple of winds round the post. Not too many that the string binds on itself. Not too few that the string slips on the post.
3 Adjust your tail piece/stop bar to the correct height. The stop bar is adjustable. Create too great a break angle over the bridge saddles and you're going to incur tuning problems. The stop bar should be down enough to provide enough tension that the strings don't sitar on the saddles. But not so much that the strings will bind on the saddles either. Also it will help extend the life of the bridge.
Hope some of that helps.
Posted 13 December 2011 - 08:59 PM
Hope some of that helps.
How do I know if the tail piece is at the correct height?
Also, are there any Les Pauls that come off the assembly line that do not experience these issues? If so, am I better off getting mine fixed or looking into selling what I have and buying another guitar? (not necessarily a Gibson, unless I can find one that has NO issues)
If I do get the nut fixed, would this be the last of my issues? I have to be honest, I didn't spend too much time with the guitar before I bought it. I had a couple people look it over and they told me its a good guitar, I just don't want to bother getting the nut fixed if there are other underlying issues.
Posted 14 December 2011 - 12:04 AM
IMO once properly setup with correctly cut nut and saddle slots - there should be no binding problems at the nut or saddles.
As R9 has already mentioned, Gibson's factory cut nuts are frequently too narrow in the slots causing binding. A properly cut/setup nut will correct binding in the nut slots. And regarding the string angle from the nut to the tuners being an issue, that corner of the nut slot can be eased. Lubricant may allow you to avoid filing the nut slots.
If you find the lubricant is not working, has Guitarest commented - find an established shop/luthier to do the work for you.
For the problem you're describing at the nut, the stop height makes no difference.
11 Martin 000-15M Elderly LE....................O10 Gibson ES-359......................o10 Rickenbacker 360/12
09 Jackson PC-1.....................................O09 Fender 52 Telecaster AVS..ooO08 Gibson SJ-200 (Colosi S/P)
08 Gibson Robot SG LTD........................oO08 Fender Am/Dlx Stratocaster.....08 Gibson Les Paul Push Tone
07 Epiphone Les Paul Ultra II.....................o07 Guild F412...........................O07 Taylor NS74ce
98 Martin D-45VR.....................................097 Guild X-700 Stuart.................O73 Yamaha G-55A
65 Gibson Melody Maker.............................Amps: Bogner Alchemist (Head/212Cab);. Line6 Spider Jam & Micro Spider
..............................................................oKeyboard: 06 Yamaha DGX220
Posted 14 December 2011 - 12:09 AM
These things work great. And the lead is small enough to get into the slots. Next best thing to having the nut filed out. Even after having a luthier have at mine, I still have to use a pencil on the D. Then again, I don't have tuning issue with mine. Only when the temps change. Which is happening a lot right now, and will happen with any guitar.
Posted 14 December 2011 - 08:49 AM
Posted 14 December 2011 - 05:46 PM
issues, on my Classic LP, by (finally) breaking down, and getting a
new (bone) nut! Best decision, I've ever made, in that regard! No
more pinging, or tuning instability, any more...at least, not on
THAT guitar! (Smile) Other's need the same treatment, but I'll have
to do that, in cycles, as I can.
Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:45 PM
Posted 15 December 2011 - 03:02 PM
use some abrasive cord to smooth out the nut slot, you can buy some at stewmac
dont be heavy handed though just smooth it out along the string path.
graphite and nut sauce only reduce the symptoms, they do not cure it. once smooth then use graphite for les friction.
my SG was a wreck of a Gibson, didnt ever realize it until I got my les paul. I slowly worked on her fixing all the sloppy slots and saddles and fret and tuners...................
Not all Gibsons are created equal, the price of a handmade instrument maybe in the traditional of Les im still tinkering with the thing exploring all the different options
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