If your SG was purchased as a new guitar, it may be worthwhile to have the dealer adjust the truss rod to lower the action.
If it's a new model, the truss rod may be a dual/double action style.. although Epiphone/Gibson and the dealer might not even know for sure.
For my Epiphone models that are more than 2 years old (which will most likely have single action truss rods), I've taken the TR nut out and put a bit of beeswax in the threads to have some lubrication on them, rather than having bare steel threads.
I've seen some owners mention that they've put a drop of oil on the threads, but it can wick away.
Almost any sort of wax will be suitable, candle wax or even a Crayon. Paraffin is commonly found in lubricants, so it's very effective.
Just enough to fill a few threads is all that's needed, it will be spread over the rest of the threads as it's screwed back on.
If the TR nut doesn't unscrew freely, it shouldn't be forced out, which could potentially cause the top of the fretboard to crack or separate from the neck.
If the SG TR is a single action, it should turn CCW very easily after it's relieved any tension. If the TR nut comes against a steady resistance turning CCW, the TR may be the dual action type, if it's not just encountering resistance from excess paint in the routed slot in the headstock.
Having a straightedge as long as the fretboard during TR adjustments can be very helpful. Placing a straightedge between the 3rd and 4th strings and resting on the 1st and last frets (not the nut) will clearly reveal the amount of relief in the neck.
The special guitar straightedges with notches in them (to clear the frets) also work well for checking the neck relief.
For guitars with single action TRs, the tension of the strings (and the size/gauge of the strings) will be a significant factor in the adjustment of the neck relief.
A single action truss rod can only apply tension to oppose the tension of the strings (CW turning direction) decreasing/taking out neck relief.
When turned CCW, the nut is releasing the tension which opposes the tension of the strings, which causes an increase in neck relief, as the tension of the strings pulls the neck forward.
For TR adjustments, the strings should be loosened, then the TR nut adjustment is made, and the strings would then be tightened again until in tune. Without string re-tightening/tuning after the adjustment, there won't be a proper balance of tension (strings against TR and neck wood).. so the neck may not look like the adjustment made a change.
If tightening the TR nut (turned CW) doesn't decrease the neck relief, there is likely something wrong with the TR or the neck (possibly the neck wasn't set properly at the factory, or other defect).
eelir, on 28 April 2012 - 06:52 AM, said:
Ok, so after reading a bunch of materials on the proposed thread and other places on the net, i tried to lower the action on my SG. Especially since setting up the guitar in shop will cost me 50-60 euros (need to save some money for decent amp and maybe a pedal). So i lowered the strings almost near to what is suggested int the booklet that came with guitar. I got a fret buzz. So, I hold the 1st and 22nd fret to see if there is a bend on the neck, and it looked a bit too small, so I decided to release the rod a bit, and i did that. First time i did around 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise and it went too easy, almost no resistance at all. Tried the spacing again, nothing changed. Released the rod a bit more, this time i felt a bit resistance. Checked for bend, again nothing.
Now i read somewhere that when doing changes on the truss rod adjustment if nothing changes i should stop trying anything. Does this mean something is wrong, or should i wait for 4-6 hours to actually see the effect?