[JPetrucelli]

Hi Guys,

Long time browser, first time poster. I recently purchased a new Les Paul Classic Plus from my local Guitar Center. After a few weeks, I noticed a slight buzz from the 3rd, 4th and 5th strings in the lower fret range (1-7). As I’ve had this type of issue with some of the imports I’ve purchased, I knew the neck relief was insufficient and I adjusted the truss rod accordingly to add relief and eliminate the buzz. Now I don’t know if it’s just me being overly sensitive, but it seems that the intonation is now slightly off. Does anyone know if after adjusting the truss rod I have to adjust intonation as well or should I wait and let the neck settle for a few days and check it again? Any advice would be appreciated!

[BigKahune]

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Yes. The intonation should be checked after a truss adjustment and after a string change. The neck should settle in a an hour or two, but you could wait until the next day if you like. Seasonal weather changes can also have an effect on intonation.


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[lpplayer]

Yes. Once adjusted, anytime you move something (neck relief, bridge height) the intonation can be affected- the precise point at which you had it has changed. And I agree- this time of year wreaks havoc on the setups on my guitar.

[kidblast]

Definitely agree with the replies re: intonation and neck tension. just adding one other thought, if you are going to set intonation, always best to do this with new strings.

[JPetrucelli]

Thanks for the info guys. I did not think about new strings, that’s for sure. Just to make sure I got this right, I tune it up, play the harmonic on the 12th fret and make note of the tuner reading. Next, I depress the appropriate string at the 12th fret and compare the reading on the tuner and it should match the harmonic. If the depressed note is flat compared to the harmonic, then I adjust the saddle forward towards the headstock and if sharp, back towards the bridge, right? One question – when (and if) the saddle needs to be adjusted, do you remove some of the tension on the string, make the adjustment then retune and do the procedure over again or do you do this adjustment on the fly?

[mojjett]

JPetrucelli, on 10 April 2012 - 09:41 AM, said:

Thanks for the info guys. I did not think about new strings, that’s for sure. Just to make sure I got this right, I tune it up, play the harmonic on the 12th fret and make note of the tuner reading. Next, I depress the appropriate string at the 12th fret and compare the reading on the tuner and it should match the harmonic. If the depressed note is flat compared to the harmonic, then I adjust the saddle forward towards the headstock and if sharp, back towards the bridge, right? One question – when (and if) the saddle needs to be adjusted, do you remove some of the tension on the string, make the adjustment then retune and do the procedure over again or do you do this adjustment on the fly?

That's pretty much how I do it. I generally don't worry too much about releasing tension on the unwound strings, but it's probably not a bad idea to do it. Less stress on the saddle screws that way.

[BigKahune]

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Yep.

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[kidblast]

"I generally don't worry too much about releasing tension on the unwound strings, but it's probably not a bad idea to do it. Less stress on the saddle screws that way"

Actually, I would definitely release the tension while moving the string saddles. Among other things, over time, possible the strings will cut into the saddle, which can effect the depth of the slot, as well as put undo stress on the screw threads for the saddle.

[JPetrucelli]

Thanks again for the info, it is greatly appreciated!