Run Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Everyone knows that a saddle that is not 100% flat at its base can produce variations in volume especially using an acoustic electric. Here's a trick: When you have sanded the new one to the right height and width, just put a light source behind the saddle, this one placed on a flat surface, and if you see some light passing throught its base it's time to gently level it until no light passes throught. That's what I did and it worked. Hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Good tip. I would add to that suggestion that "flat" is a relative term. When I need to make something like this flat, I secure a peice of sandpaper of the appropriate grit to a machined steel surface, such as a table saw, and very carefully work the item over the flat surface, checking constantly that I am maintaining the "flat". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigKahune Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 . SOP . B) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogeye Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 If you really want to do a simple fix just do what the savy luthiers do. Rub the botton of the saddle with a magic marker. Put a piece of sandpaper on a known flat surface and lightly sand the bottom of the saddle. Stop every few seconds and look at the bottom of the saddle. The high and low spots are easy to spot. When you get all of the magic marker sanded off recoat the saddle and lightly sand and the magic marker will come off even. Repeat until you have the saddle at the proper height and you are done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 If you really want to do a simple fix just do what the savy luthiers do. Rub the botton of the saddle with a magic marker. Put a piece of sandpaper on a known flat surface and lightly sand the bottom of the saddle. Stop every few seconds and look at the bottom of the saddle. The high and low spots are easy to spot. When you get all of the magic marker sanded off recoat the saddle and lightly sand and the magic marker will come off even. Repeat until you have the saddle at the proper height and you are done. Great advice. In boatbuilding (the old way, with wood), we used blue chalk for the same purpose when fitting joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarrr Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 +1 on this topic The other thing is the width. I bought an inexpensive digital calipher at Harbor Freight which meansures down to .001 inch for the inside of the bridge slot and the outside of the saddle. Having a snug fit is just as important and the level bottom. Not a salesman just happen to know about this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 +1 on this topic The other thing is the width. I bought an inexpensive digital calipher at Harbor Freight which meansures down to .001 inch for the inside of the bridge slot and the outside of the saddle. Having a snug fit is just as important and the level bottom. Not a salesman just happen to know about this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html A digital caliper is a remarkably useful tool. Great for measuring bridge pins, depth of guitar necks, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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