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SCS.1D LCD STRIPS MISSING PIXELS IN THE LCD SCREENS OF MY SCS.1D WHICH I RECEIVED TODAY

#1 User is offline   xaros84 

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 10:18 AM

Hello,
A couple of days ago I ordered the scs.1D and i was very happy with the idea despite all of the problems with the support of this product.
Today the scs.1d arrived and i couldn't wait to get back home to plug it.
So when i plugged the device with the power cord( i haven't connected it to my mbp cause i don't have a firewire cable from 800 to 400-) I noticed that my lcd's have
missing lines/pixels and some of them are impossible to be read.
The question that I have is the following :
Should i try to make a firmware upgrade just in case ???
OR my hardware(scs.1d) is defective and have to return it???
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#2 User is offline   xaros84 

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 04:31 PM

Ok so I made a firmware upgrade and still no improvement in the lcd section...
So I guess the lcd's are broken...
So damn lucky from the first day???
Anyone had same experience?If so please share so I ll know what to expect...repair or replace?
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#3 User is offline   t-boy 

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 12:12 AM

View Postxaros84, on 01 August 2012 - 04:31 PM, said:

Ok so I made a firmware upgrade and still no improvement in the lcd section...
So I guess the lcd's are broken...
So damn lucky from the first day???
Anyone had same experience?If so please share so I ll know what to expect...repair or replace?


My LCD strips get the lines after 1 month of non useage. Before they were perfect, and when I switch them on again, they got the lines.
Luckily the re-seller repairs them (in this moment) for free (I'm out of the 1 year warranty what they give).

You must send them for repair or change them for a new one.

But if these pretty common problems aren't shows up, than these are the best controllers on the planet.
(unfortunately the LCD problems are use to show up after some time.... I just hope mine will get fixed for free even the next time as well)
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#4 User is offline   xaros84 

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 04:14 AM

View Postt-boy, on 02 August 2012 - 12:12 AM, said:


You must send them for repair or change them for a new one.

But if these pretty common problems aren't shows up, than these are the best controllers on the planet.



I think that Stanton doesn't share the same opinion about the awesomeness of this product.

The auhorised dealer Just called me and they said that this was the last unit here in Greece and that Stanton has stopped producing it so there is no case of a replacement.
I hope they can repair it...
So why is this problem happening?
And if they repair it will it happen again?
Do I need to be careful about something in the use of the scs.1d or it will happen again anyway?
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#5 User is offline   xaros84 

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 02:32 AM

View Postt-boy, on 02 August 2012 - 12:02 PM, said:

Stanton is re-launching these products and my authorised dealer told me this should happen in August-September. (this re-launch was anounced at NAMM 2012.)



After the re-lauch every SCS (1 and 3 for shure, I don't know the others) will be bundled with Virtual DJ (LE version) and there should be a special skin for your controller.




From what I've noticed you prefer using vdj.
But what about those who want to use the scs with Traktor(like me for example)?
Can't they find a way to make it work?
They should find a way as they did with virtual dj that has native support for the scs.
Or at least keep upgrading the darouter/presets/firmware.
Today I sent the unit for repair
Now we ll just have to wait and see...
I also read that you ve used the scs.1 with traktor 2.5...
Did it really work?
did u try scratching with the platter and how it sounded?



***and one big question ; about those 4 "velocity sensitive" pads where exactly the velocity is being used?
only in programms for music production this feature is being used (I think so, I don't want o be absolute about this)
But even in traktor pro 2.5, native instruments released the f1 and they say that the 16 pads that the f1 has for triggering are
NOT velocity sensitive. So what's the point in this feature for the scs.1d in the first place?
Has anybody managed to take advantage of the velocity feature and how???
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#6 User is offline   t-boy 

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 01:45 AM



I like VDJ more than Traktor. It is a much smarter program with many-many more features.

It can handle 99 players if you want, 99 cue points per song, a really full skinable UI (Did you tried the T2 with 2 or 3 dispays? How does it worked, and what could you re-place on the second/third extended display? I wish I could use 1 display per SCS.1d, and one for the mixer witch I would use in browser mode only) and pretty easy mapping which will be even beter in the VDJ 8.

NI is not interested to give native support for a product which was made in 2008. They don't give a s**t!
If you use DaRouter than everything works great with Traktor (except the v. 2.11 for me) The resolution looks (and sounds) just like a real vinyl.

Besides these VDJ can give you video mixing, DMX light control, native support for the SCS system (the only think strange, the platter spins on a constant speed regardless of the pitch adjustments)
And VDJ is ReWire compatible also, and there (Reason, Ableton, any VSTi) you can use the velocity sensitive pads.

And their forum is ALIVE, all the programmers are there and they answers your post(s).
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#7 User is offline   xaros84 

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 01:46 AM

View Postt-boy, on 05 August 2012 - 01:45 AM, said:



I like VDJ more than Traktor. It is a much smarter program with many-many more features.




Have you tried using virtual dj as timecode for traktor? i think it can be done right? you rip the timecode cd for traktor, you ran it as a track on a virtual dj deck and then you route the outputs and inputs in traktor...i guess...
When you say rewire what exactly do u mean?
Have you managed to use the velocity pads and what did u really do and with what program?
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#8 User is offline   t-boy 

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 06:22 AM

View Postxaros84, on 07 August 2012 - 01:46 AM, said:

Have you tried using virtual dj as timecode for traktor? i think it can be done right? you rip the timecode cd for traktor, you ran it as a track on a virtual dj deck and then you route the outputs and inputs in traktor...i guess...
When you say rewire what exactly do u mean?
Have you managed to use the velocity pads and what did u really do and with what program?


You can rip timecode CD or vinyl.
I think any timecode is supported by VDJ, but I'm not interested since I have the SCS.1 system (pure MIDI).
If you have the ripped stuff, you can use any CD player to control the software, or if you cut a dub-plate (I guess it's way more cheaper to get an original vinyl) you can use a turntable to control the program.

ReWire is a protocol to virtually connect different programs (google it). That means you can run ANY program in the background and you can give commands to them (simultanously, for ex. from your SCS.1 you can map one of the 'preset layer'{on the right side} to control the VST/VSTi and another layer for another program and the third is for the VDJ)
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#9 User is offline   JohnXVI 

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 06:02 PM

The only fix is to reseat those connections from the LCDs to the board. It may be well above some users level of comfort, and may even be worthless. You may damage something that other than the screens is functional.
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#10 User is offline   t-boy 

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 10:26 PM

I have pretty a few SCS.1 units (8 in total), and most of them are in and out from the 'authorized dealer's repairing center'.

Once they are fixed, after a few start-up, the LCD's get broken again, and I send them back to the repairing facility.
more than 90% of their time they spend it in the service and not in my home!

Is this normal, or they don't know the way to repair these, and the main problem sits on the PCB, and not the LCD units are faulty, so they can't fix the case, only they fix the effect.

Please reply in private if you moderate this message and it never came visible on this message board (as my messages use to be deleted)
thx
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#11 User is offline   pARtybOy 

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Posted 03 January 2014 - 05:27 AM

View PostJohnXVI, on 24 May 2013 - 06:02 PM, said:

The only fix is to reseat those connections from the LCDs to the board. It may be well above some users level of comfort, and may even be worthless. You may damage something that other than the screens is functional.


what do you mean? I can work with soldering iron,change a LED if I have to, is this easy to do?
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#12 User is offline   Dj Shawn 

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Posted 26 June 2015 - 05:06 PM

View PostpARtybOy, on 03 January 2014 - 05:27 AM, said:

what do you mean? I can work with soldering iron,change a LED if I have to, is this easy to do?

I have the same situate. What was the outcome?
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#13 User is offline   xaros84 

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Posted 27 November 2015 - 11:12 AM

View PostDj Shawn, on 26 June 2015 - 05:06 PM, said:

I have the same situate. What was the outcome?


The outcome is this : (first I 'll tell you my story) I bought the first unit of SCS.1d with faulty lcd screens (july 2012)and I sent it back to the dealer.
After almost 2 months of waiting they managed to send me a new unit with working lcd screens BUT with the 0000 problem(I believe you are aware of this problem).
I decided to keep it cause I didn't intend to buy another SCS.1d unit. The lcd screens started to fail again some time ago...
So as you can see the only logical outcome is : sell/throw/destroy/burn them and buy a proper controller from a serious company who will support you/their product.
Stanton from my point of view didn't really ever care about supporting their customers and evovle the scs systems.
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#14 User is offline   pARtybOy 

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 07:42 PM

xaros84: I will buy you the deck, how much would you sell it? where are you from?

the 000000issue is a easy fix, if you have a macbook bootcamped running windows or a pc with firewire ports,just have to use a stanton software to reset the deck id to another number other than 00000.
http://forum.gibson....-with-id-00000/


I would like to know what the stanton support do to fix the LCD missing lines, I also had a deck for about 3 months on technical support...
I read that reseting the connections fixes the LCDs, but I tried opening the units,resetted the flat cables, but nothing hapenned...
thank you
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#15 User is offline   JP Belanger 

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 07:09 PM

Okay here you go guys. I happen to have two SCS.1D, and only use one for scratching. Both have the LCD strips problem, so after waiting maybe a little too long, I decided today to tear one apart and see what's going on in there. I didn't take pictures of how to get to the LCD strips: you just have to unscrew every screw on the bottom, plus the two holding the Firewire and power ports. Then, you have to unscrew every screw that are on the board you want to fix (top or bottom). Be careful when removing those ribbon cables: there are two pins on each side of the connector. Pull them off and you'll be able to disconnect the cable without breaking or bending it.

Then you'll get to see the LCD strips. WARNING: one side of the LCD is popping off easily from the PCB, the other side is STUCK IN GLUE. I managed to pull them off by bending gently the end tit finally pulled off, but BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL: while pulling off the last one that was stuck in glue, I accidently broke a solder point between the two LEDS connection point; will have to fix this.

So how does it look on the inside? There it is. I disconnected a ribbon cable from the LCD module so you can see what's underneath. The cable has just an adhesive that connects it to the LCD strips, and I think this may be a major part of the problem. If not, and I don't know much about electronics and soldering, but I believe it could be possible to swap the LCD modules altogether, provided you find an LCD module that small.
Anyone knows of that "M" company with the logo on the LCD module?
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Anyone has an idea? I think I'll bring it to my tech and he may be able to fix this. Stay tuned for more pictures as I will get to the top LCD strips, and maybe be able to fix my top blue LED for the round display that has not been working since I bought it!

Oh yeah and if you want an LCD LED mod, I guess it's possible:) You can see the glue residue I haven't been able to pull off yet from these tiny pins. Sorry for the potato quality, my t3i with stock 18-55 lens ain't the best for macro photography!

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#16 User is offline   JP Belanger 

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 08:53 PM

Ok so I kept on tearing this apart.

I removed the Firewire/power ports board first. It's pretty easy, just pull it off gently since it will get stuck in the power cable. Now if anybody knows if it's possible to bypass a Firewire chipset with a USB one....:P
The chipset is a standard Oxford Communications 971, which is used by many companies who have and still make Firewire products for maximum OSX compatibility (thanks Google).
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Then, I unscrewed the top PCB. This one is trickier. Start by removing the 4 rubber top knobs. Unlock every connector with a small screwdriver and unplug every cable. Then THERE ARE TWO PUSH PINS AT THE TOP RIGHT that must be pushed to release the PCB once everything is unscrewed. Once pulled off, it looks like this:
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But wait, what is that? Are those....MIDI ports? They are just aside the Firewire ports. Could also be diag ports though, as those connectors are also used for that purpose. I once had a Numark CDX, and its coolest feature was almost a secret one: you could connect a MIDI controller via its MIDI input port, and precisely control the pitch. So you could play a very long horn note, scratch it and changing its pitch notes all in real time. DJ Dexter and Kid Koala's signature in a MIDI package. I wonder what I would get from trying to solder MIDI ports to those and listen to incoming MIDI signals in Bome's...
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Here is the other side of the top PCB board, with LCD strips and big top left LCD
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The strips
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Oh noes! More glue like on the bottom PCB! Won't take a chance this time and find a proper way to heat the glue to release the LCDs.
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The big LCD. It has the same push-pins as the smaller ones, but those solder points seems to make it unreleasable. Too bad for my dead blue LCD:(
Update: The white piece under the big LCD is just an adhesive. I could lift the big LCD by unsticking it, but it makes the solder points bend too much I'm afraid to break one.
So don't bother opening yours if you got this problem like me (dead big LCD color LED) , it's just not worth it.
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Once again, those damn solder points.
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And finally, the casing without PCB. You can see the motorized fader on the top left with its motor at its left, and also you can see my buttons will need a good cleanup:)
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Getting there takes about 40 minutes. Lots of screws, cables, connector locks, bending gently... But if you care just a little, it's an easy job, really. I won't get into pulling off the motor just for the sake of taking pictures, sorry about that, but I don't know enough about direct drive motors to risk ruining it forever.
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#17 User is offline   JP Belanger 

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Posted 05 January 2016 - 11:04 PM

I measured the LCD module "caddy": 4 x 1.5 x 1.2 cm. If someone would think about swapping the LCDs you must know this: the SCS.1D's faceplate is molded with a fit right the size of their "LCD caddies", the little pieces of plastic stuck in glue that hold the LCD module. So you can't pick up any size of LCDs. I don't know much about electronics, is there even a way to connect this ribbon cable to a 4-pin LCD module through a converter of some sort? Anyway, just to show you what I mean when I say it has to be "<" 4 x 1.5 x 1.2 cm.

So if anyone knows about a custom LCD modules company...

Top Row: case molded snug fit. You can even see the gap better on the picture right above, the casing with pcbs removed.
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Bottom Row: just enough space between cue and select pads. One could cut a little extra rubber on both sides for a little more real estate, but why would you just change the bottom row only anyway...
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We really need to find that "M" company who made the LCDs for Stanton. It's one of the only things that is not Stanton branded in this thing.
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#18 User is offline   xaros84 

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Posted 09 January 2016 - 04:21 AM

View PostpARtybOy, on 12 December 2015 - 07:42 PM, said:

xaros84: I will buy you the deck, how much would you sell it? where are you from?

the 000000issue is a easy fix, if you have a macbook bootcamped running windows or a pc with firewire ports,just have to use a stanton software to reset the deck id to another number other than 00000.
http://forum.gibson....-with-id-00000/


I would like to know what the stanton support do to fix the LCD missing lines, I also had a deck for about 3 months on technical support...
I read that reseting the connections fixes the LCDs, but I tried opening the units,resetted the flat cables, but nothing hapenned...
thank you


I 'm from Greece. I don't know how much I would ask if I was to sell it. Where are you from? All in all I bought it 450 euros in 2012 new from official retailer of greece's stanton.
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#19 User is offline   JohnXVI 

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Posted 28 May 2016 - 12:31 PM

Anyone still following this thread? I have updates but only if I'm posting for someone to see!
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#20 User is offline   sal 

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Posted 02 August 2016 - 06:55 PM

View PostJohnXVI, on 28 May 2016 - 12:31 PM, said:

Anyone still following this thread? I have updates but only if I'm posting for someone to see!

hi,
i'm still using the scs system, vdj 8.2 is very good with them and only problem is some of the lcd's not working.

Do you know how to fix/find the spare parts?

Thank you very much :)

Sal
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