irv123 Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Hi, I'm new to the forum and have learnt alot from the various posts, but I'm still having problems with my setting up of the Trans Trem on my ZT3. It might be a quick fix, I hope so, as I've spent quite a few days trying to sort it out. Here's the problem. When transposing to to D or Fsharp all is well. But when releasing the trem to return to E, from these positions, I get a nasty clunk from the trem. Like it has released too quickly and jumped back into place. Transpositions to F and Eb are fine. I've taken the trem out and put it all back, nothing appears broken etc. I had a good look at the way the mechanism works and particularly the role of the two screws on the bridge - how they affect the rolling/release of the trem. I also have a great knowledge of the R trem, but this isn't really helping me here... Certainly the transposing smoothness gained by Ned on the set-up vid is not present in my setup :( Any advice? Cheers! John (UK) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r2bflash Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 If you messed with or adjusted the two screws you mention on the top of the trem that is where your problem is. If that is out of adjustment you will get some unwanted movement when engaging and disengaging the trem arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irv123 Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have adjusted them - in my efforts to 'take something apart to understand it' - fatal decision. Any ideas how to reset them? I understand how the smaller nurled screw works but have yet to see how the bigger allen key screw works... Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r2bflash Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Sorry, it has been so long since I set mine up that I don't remember what does what. You will have to do a trial and error approach. Adjust a little and see how the arm engages...then do a little more and test. You will notice once you go the wrong way it will get worse or if you go the right way it will get better. If that does not work I would contact Gibson and see if they have any advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irv123 Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Just to get some things straight from a mechanical point of view... I've attached a photo of the underside of the TT. Under the rod, to the left of the step, you can see the small nurled screw. When screwed in it seems to do 2 things: 1. It puts pressure on the underside of the rod and moves the position of the step/claw - closer or further away from the jaw on the right hand side of this photo. It also affects the torque of the release mechanism under the tremolo arm base. Would this be correct? Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r2bflash Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Like I said, I don't remember much about it. I did it years ago. All I remember is when I adjusted it the trem arm got real clunky and out of whack so I went back to where it got smooth. Sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irv123 Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Thanks Brent. I shall have another go at it ! Cheers, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irv123 Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Still looking for help with the above if anybody can? Tremolo still very clunky coming out of transposition... Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irv123 Posted September 15, 2012 Author Share Posted September 15, 2012 Just to update any followers of this thread... I seem to have made inroads into putting back the TT after taking it apart. Here's a brief guide to setting up having removed the TT: 1. By presetting the counter spring stop plate to where it is in the pic on p.17 of the manual, you get a good starting point for restringing. Then replace TT top plate. 2. Lock in middle position, restring, tune up to E. 3. Unlock to float. 4. Adjust rear wheel til tuning is the same locked and floating. 5. I then check all transposing positions to make sure I have tuned to E in the middle position. Important that! 6. Raise and lower string jaws to achieve good tuning in all 5 Transposing keys. Some points of interest. 1. When transposing BACK to E it helps to apply some v slight pressure to the trem arm to ensure a smooth operation. When returning from transposing down to Eb or D, I push the bar down v slightly as I return the bar to floating E position. The reverse for coming BACK from F /Fsharp. 2. The two screws behind the tuners seem to do the following: the smaller nurled screw adjusts the distance of the step/claw from the locking jaw on the baseplate (that holds the trem locked in the 5 positions... see photo 2 above). The hex screw seems to hold the step/claw in place. 3. The two hex screws beside the trem base, at the side of the top plate, tighten or loosen the 'play' of the trem arm. I have the RH one tightened up pretty well all the way, and the LH one a bit looser, seems to provide a good 'stiffness' in the arm at this setting. 4. The two nuts on the trem arm are CRUCIAL to establishing the trem positioning in relation to the strings and ALSO in determining WHERE the locking point is. This seems to be vital to getting a good 'feel' in the arm, and thus achieving a smooth transition into the 5 Transposition positions. A small turn of the nuts can move the trem position significantly. That's it for now. Would be great to get some feedback on these observations, to see if there is a general consensus that this is correct... or not. Have a great weekend, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r2bflash Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Just to update any followers of this thread... I seem to have made inroads into putting back the TT after taking it apart. Here's a brief guide to setting up having removed the TT: 1. By presetting the counter spring stop plate to where it is in the pic on p.17 of the manual, you get a good starting point for restringing. Then replace TT top plate. 2. Lock in middle position, restring, tune up to E. 3. Unlock to float. 4. Adjust rear wheel til tuning is the same locked and floating. 5. I then check all transposing positions to make sure I have tuned to E in the middle position. Important that! 6. Raise and lower string jaws to achieve good tuning in all 5 Transposing keys. Some points of interest. 1. When transposing BACK to E it helps to apply some v slight pressure to the trem arm to ensure a smooth operation. When returning from transposing down to Eb or D, I push the bar down v slightly as I return the bar to floating E position. The reverse for coming BACK from F /Fsharp. 2. The two screws behind the tuners seem to do the following: the smaller nurled screw adjusts the distance of the step/claw from the locking jaw on the baseplate (that holds the trem locked in the 5 positions... see photo 2 above). The hex screw seems to hold the step/claw in place. 3. The two hex screws beside the trem base, at the side of the top plate, tighten or loosen the 'play' of the trem arm. I have the RH one tightened up pretty well all the way, and the LH one a bit looser, seems to provide a good 'stiffness' in the arm at this setting. 4. The two nuts on the trem arm are CRUCIAL to establishing the trem positioning in relation to the strings and ALSO in determining WHERE the locking point is. This seems to be vital to getting a good 'feel' in the arm, and thus achieving a smooth transition into the 5 Transposition positions. A small turn of the nuts can move the trem position significantly. That's it for now. Would be great to get some feedback on these observations, to see if there is a general consensus that this is correct... or not. Have a great weekend, John That all sounds like I remember regarding the adjustments to the trem teeth/distance adjustment, I just could not remember what did what. Now it sounds familiar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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