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ksdaddy

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ksdaddy last won the day on March 10

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About ksdaddy

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  1. I inherited my mother’s Ariens ZT. I used it one season and handed it off to one of my kids. She loves it. I didn’t. I felt like I was driving all the time (both hands on the levers 100% of the time). I use a 1946 Ford 2N tractor with a 72” finish mower for most of my mowing. If I’m not in a hurry I will use a regular riding mower (Craftsman or White) as they do a prettier job.
  2. Haiku Dennis suspicious A Gibson with a low price Pull the trigger yes
  3. Titebond and toothpick, yep. If I had a nickel for every raggedy or incorrect screw hole I patched that way….
  4. I've owned mine for 46 years and I've never been tempted to switch to a six saddle bridge. If that's what anyone wants, go for it, but I've never felt the need. If something just does not work for me, I have no aversion to changing it. There's a '58 Gretsch on my bench that is getting a new nut because the spacing on the old one was too wide. It's also getting opened up to have a treble bleed installed. Not afraid of fixing something that's broke, but as far as I'm concerned, the three saddle ain't broke.
  5. Definitely not rosewood of any type. The sides and back are mahogany, as is the neck. I can't tell you whether you overpaid or not but this damage will need to be addressed. I did a Gibson 12 string a number of years ago. I can't remember how I pulled it back into position. Probably just as well; I have done some nasty things here that would make a chiropractor wince.
  6. We can't help based on a serial number. We will need to see several photos of the guitar.
  7. It's very likely a 1966 based on the bridge. Or I should say it's definitely not 1969. This guitar has a serious problem. The top has a crack just beside the neck block and the neck (and neck block) has shifted. Note the crack and also note the edge of the sound hole at the end of the crack and the distortion of the body binding. It's not just a matter of repairing the crack. Everything needs to be shifted back into place first. I have repaired Gibsons with similar problems (it's a Gibson thing, seems like). Once the neck block is back in place, I glue in a narrow block of wood alongside the neck block, glued to both the neck block and top (inside).
  8. Gibson offers very little storage space. You will need to upload it to a site like imgur or inkfrog and post the link here. It could either be a 1966 or 1969 based on the serial number. Spruce top, mahogany sides and back. Mahogany neck. If the bridge looks like this, it is likely a 1966. If it looks like this, it is likely a 1969.
  9. That would be a monstrous improvement over both the original Jag/Jazz and Mustang saddles.
  10. Burdock here. Seems like in the 60s it was an occasional thing to brush up against one. Now it’s all over. Some have said the birds spread it because of the seeds that are in their poop. I always see new growth in and around where old buildings are torn or burned down. I have one tiny postage stamp lot in town, right between a cemetery and a semi-burned out house where the owner was murdered. If I didn’t keep it mowed, it would be overrun with Japanese knotweed.
  11. I always measure at the 12th fret, only because of consistency. If, however, as in Fender’s case, they are measuring at the 17th fret and my goal is to set a Fender up to factory specs, of course I’ll use their numbers. Because math is hard.
  12. How's your humidity? Is it dry where the guitar sits? If you don't have a hygrometer, that's okay, just look at the top from the side. Does the top seem to be sunken in? Or flatter than what you'd expect to see? Run your fingers across the grain of the top and note if it feels like corduroy. You may just need to hydrate. Aside from that, have you changed gauge of strings? Gone lighter perhaps?
  13. I currently own a Squier Vintage Vibe Jazzmaster (Sonic Blue? Daphne Blue?) and I've bought (and then sold) two Squier 70s Vibe Jaguars. All three had Mustang-esque saddles from the factory. I swapped them out for the vintage grooved barrel original style, not because I preferred them (who in their right mind would?) but because they each have two height adjustment screws per saddle. That way I could dial in the radius to match the board. I could not do that with the Mustang style, which has no height adjustment.... they just had three different sizes that 'kinda' matched the radius.
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