mr.chEn

On the one hand.... You just paid a lot of money for a new instrument and you want it to be as clean as possible for as long as you can keep it. On the other hand... It is the nature of every guitar that gets played to become ding'd and scratched. Psychologically you may feel upset because the scratches here don't involve self-inflicted or 'natural' patina... But my opinion is that with Gibsons you really need to accept the easy dents that come with a lacquer finish. If anything maybe call back the shop and tell them about the damages if only for their own awareness and self improvement?? Maybe they'll throw in a few free set ups down the line if you're trying to be helpful about it and not malicious.

The photo in my previous post actually has the saddle placed in both ways. It's really kind of strange, the bridge gives the illusion of the treble side looking taller no matter how the saddle is placed in, but I think that's simply due to the way it's cut and angled for compensation. The saddle itself (stock from Gibson) has almost no difference in height between sides. Only around a .3mm difference from one side or the other. So I just kept the "taller" side towards the low E part of the bridge and called it a day. For my tastes the action is still pretty high, but it's a new instrument so I'd like for everything to settle in before I start filing down the saddle and things.

https://imgur.com/a/P5FdAIX Photo here with saddles in both arrangements. To my eyes it looks nearly identical, with the saddle gently following the fretboard radius, but after I used some calipers there is one side that is mere millimeters taller than the other. The bridge gives the illusion of the treble side sloping up since it's cut at an incline. But I think I've got it!

Hey all, I was changing out a pair of strings on my (50s Original) LG-2 and the saddle fell out of the slot. Since it is an asymmetrical shape I'm forgetting how it's meant to be placed back into the bridge. It's a standard Gibson non-compensated saddle. Can anyone advise on which way the stock saddle is supposed to go back in?

Only real solution I see is to flash some lacquer clear coats over the scratch. 3-6 coats, spraying two hours apart. maximum 2 coats per day. minimum 3 weeks to cure wet sand up to 1500 grit to make level, and then buff out with polishing compounds. It's a lot of work just to fix a .5" scratch but that's what a luthier would do, and charge you $300 for it since it's finishing work.

Since nitrocellulose lacquer melts into itself, I'm sure that a satin finish can be sanded down and then clear coated with gloss to be sanded and polished to a semi gloss or even high gloss sheen. The main issue is that GIbson's satin finish is so extremely thin as it is, that there's a very real risk of burning through the colorcoat during every part of this process. I'm feeling somewhat committed to this as making it my spring project! Will definitely keep everyone updated/ post photos as I go along.

Yes, it seems like it's possible to rub down the satin finish with some 600 grit, wipe clean, and start gloss clear coats. I suppose the biggest challenge in all of this would be the time/effort involved with removing all the hardware and masking it well... especially the f-holes.

Hi all, I'm wondering if it's possible to spray nitro clear coat directly over a satin finished guitar straight from Gibson to achieve a high gloss look? I've read elsewhere that folks have been buffing out the satin with polish to achieve a gloss, but curious if I can go the other way, and apply more lacquer rather than take away for a high shine?