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rickc

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    Guitars, Motorbikes, my truck, my kids

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  1. Hi Neighbour! I'm in Gibsons and also have an ES-355 in my stable. Love it too.
  2. I survived a slightly twisted bridge pickup for about 32 years on a black LPC until I installed cream pup rings at which point my OCD threshold was exceeded. It took just a few minutes between a string change to plug (toothpick) and redrill two holes to fix this. From the picture above, a very extreme case, it may be necessary to plug all four holoes and redrill so that the jack plate completely covers the plugged holes. Too big for toothpicks!
  3. I lived with a crooked bridge pickup for about 34 years on my black LPC. It was just very slightly off parallel with the bridge pickup. When I modded and put cream rings on, it was just too obvious so a quick fix with toothpicks and repositioned holes and all is now well. I've very surprised to read of a stop bar being wrong as I understood the bigger holes were drilled in a jig to ensure perfect locations. The stop bar should be straight, perpendicular to the strings. This would bug me if it was my guitar.
  4. Robzoid: The bridge saddles only need enough of a notch to stop the string moving across the top of the saddle. I've seen vids of folk tapping an old string with a hammer just hard enough to make a little notch. Factory saddles have notches but if you have replaced yours with a new one, it may not have any. You have to be careful with the non wound strings; if the notch is too wide, sitar-like buzzing can occur at the saddle.
  5. All is now clear Robzoid. A dead fretted string does suggest an issue between the fret and bridge or maybe just a bad string. Lots of quirks with Gibsons and other guitars too. I spend a lot of time playing my guitars unplugged while watching TV or just hanging out at home. When unplugged, there's nothing hiding/masking string issues; every sitar, fret buzz and rattle is much more obvious; fix them and make them go away! Other than my weather related issues described earlier, I've been lucky with my guitars. One other thing I forgot to mention is the hump in the neck around the 16th fret and higher on some set-neck guitars; I've never experienced this but it is mentioned in many forums. Instead of a slight drop in the fret level after the 16th fret, the frets can hump up a little, usually worse in the middle as I understand, so a buzzing G can result. However, this doesn't explain the overall deadness you and others describe. A few of the girls: https://imgur.com/463bfUm
  6. Nice guitars Robzoid. I can hear the same on your Strat. Sounds like the string is choking/buzzing a little on both guitars. How low do you go action wise? I've owned my 87 LPC since new and set it at factory specs (3/64" - 5/64") with EB 009 or 008 sets and do not experience G string issues. I find the LPC more sensitive to weather changes than my Strat and probably tweak the action two or three times a year to correct. I have an ES-335 that is the same but an ES-Artist that is solid as a rock. It has a 3-piece neck. I think this may help with stability. Check my other G string issue response: could be a saddle notch issue or slightly collapsed bridge if your LP is older. I enjoyed your video; great playing; nice amp.
  7. Hi folks: Two more possibilities: - Pick up setup. The OP doesn't mention if the dead G is consistent with different pup selections. If not, then tweaking the pup-in-use pole piece screw may correct the problem. - Bad saddle. It's possible that the G saddle notch is too deep; it should be just a nick. Measure the G string height at the 13th fret. It should be around or a little over 3/64" if the high E is at 3/64". If it is lower than this, the string may be sitting too low at the bridge. If this is the case and all the other saddles are OK, the G string action will be too low when the other strings are good. I'd expect the G to buzz, especially up high beyond the 12th fret. This can also happen if the bridge is collapsing but there's no way this would occur with a new guitar.
  8. Hi Sapster: It's a beaut! The only thing that would concern me is the bridge, it's technically the wrong way around with the screws facing forward and in your case the bass E, A and D saddles are all the way forward and the saddles are flat edge forward too; Not good as there is room for intonation adjustment in the forward direction. If it is intonated correctly as-is, then the bridge is too close to the pickup; I've seen this before. As long as it plays well who cares?
  9. I'm glad the problem was solved. Back in 87, the guy drilling pup ring holes at Gibson got distracted and my bridge pup spent most of it's life slightly skewed. With black rings I could live with it but when I put the cream rings on, it looked awful so I fixed it. As my pic shows, two were OK and two were not. I simply cut off about 5mm of toothpick and carefully forced it into the two offending holes then re-drilled tow tiny pilot holes in the right location and all was well. No glue. A 30 minute job; maybe less. https://imgur.com/M5wyabz
  10. Luke: This is not normal. If the bridge is all the way down then you have no action adjustment. I'm assuming your guitar has a conventional bridge and tailpiece set-up. As Steve noted, if the bushings for the bridge are not pushed all the way down then this could explain the bottoming out. The nut has nothing to do with this and there would have to be a lot of relief in the neck for the truss rod to be part of this problem. What you describe suggests that the neck angle is too flat; there should be a small backwards angle of the neck relative to the top surface of the body. For comparison, for my old 87 LPC, with low action (4/64" and 3/64", same as Chris) the bottom of the low E bridge thumbwheel is 16/64" from the top of the body and 10/64" for the high E end. You have zero and zero; not good. Can you take a close-up picture and share?
  11. Hi Tim: I took a peek to see if I could get one sent to me to forward to you but the EBay site says they don't ship to Canada!!??
  12. StewMac may be your friend: https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware/tuning-machines/solid-peghead-guitar-tuning-machines/golden-age-vintage-style-3onplate-tuners.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2021-02-gp&pref_currency=H&shipcalc=CAN&gclid=CjwKCAiAyc2BBhAaEiwA44-wWznpgOrvFEpcroE8gdz3z7iLqUcIFRG8K04nv3bM-k_0rHhF4qsr5xoCzp4QAvD_BwE
  13. Joseph: You will find that many players remove the factory strap buttons, put them in a little baggie in the case and replace them with locking devices. It does not matter what strap you use if it doesn't stay on the guitar.
  14. Sgt. Pepper - no faux mojo; the real thing!
  15. I understand a custom shop trying to duplicate an exact, famous guitar for an exotic collector but all other relic-ing is fake mojo. It's like buying a hardcore trail motorbike, covering it in mud and bashing the tank with a hammer to make it look like you've ridden it hard and are bad-***. Fake mojo.
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