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TM

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  1. They are talking it over now and trying to decide which direction to go in. Probably will get a professional appraisal for the first step and then decide if they want to restore it before selling or sell it as is and let the buyer do the work? We had a recommendation on a restoration place down in Durham, NC, Hanson & Crawford. Best guess was $700-1000 for the cost. That the value restored was likely $13-20k or so, less as is obviously. Would love to get your thoughts, should we have it restored so we can get top dollar for it, or would we be better off to let the buyer use their own Luthier? I own a similar guitar, perhaps from the same batch. If I were you friends I would sell it as is. The guitar will not bring 20K restored, maybe 13K, as is maybe 10K. Understand selling a guitar like this is a pain even if you know guitars a real pain when you don't. Pay for an evaluation of the guitar. Have someone write up a description of the issues in and out, someone who knows vintage guitars. Depending on where the guitar is located finding that person can be difficult. Buyers spending this kind of money naturally want to know in detail what they are buying. The J55 was made in limited quantity and that helps, but there is a limit. Take an 8K offer as it sits and be done with it. I would not pay to have it restored in hopes of getting more money. T.
  2. Hello, Send me a pic of the case and I will tell you what I can. Thanks, Terry

    tmitchell59@comcast.net

  3. (continuation) probably for a type "1" Gibson uke, and are, in fact, very rare. (they have only seen one before) SO, with all your Gibson ukes, I was hoping you could help me identify the case? Anyway, pleases let me know where I can send pics, etc. I appreciate any help, Robert

  4. TM....Great UKE collection. I wish I had just ONE Gibson uke. Which is, in fact, why I am contacting you....I have a nice Martin 1927-1932 range, that came with a hardshell arch top case. The case is period, BUT not a martin case, which were pressboard at this time. I took it to Gryphon in Palo Alto, they are pretty good on vintage stuff, and help me date the martin, and said that the case was

  5. Can anyone tell me where I find a replacement of that exact plastic adjustable bridge? I have seen the plastic bridges on ebay. I have one you can have. I don't recall what it came off of or even why I have it. I think the problem with an original replacement is that they are not going to be in a lot better shape than what you have. I'll dig mine out, I think it is a bit warped, which happens when the keep shape with the guitar top over time. Drop me a pm and I will let you know if it is worth the effort, what little there would be. I have owned several RW adjustables which I think can be great, would never change one, but I have stayed away from the plastic. Interesting comments from those who own them Terry
  6. I made the comment about Gibson inside work being "sloppy". This comes from comparison with vintage Martin interiors which are quite clean and tidy. Don't know what difference it makes. When Gibson reissued the Banner Head J45 and the 37 L00 they left the braces rough, at least that is what they said, I don't have one to look at. Vintage Gibsons hold up pretty well. They occasionally need to have braces glued, they didn't tuck in the brace ends like a Martin. I had a great 63 J50 with the pin holes on the very edge of the bridgeplate, sounded great. I've got pitures of some of my vintage Gibson braces, but none on my webpage to post. I don't pay much attention to it except people now want to see pictures of interiors mostly bridgeplates. Terry
  7. The "1946" Gibsons with the Script only logo do not seem to have numbers. I have a J45 with the old Script under the new block logo. Something to look for on the early post war guitars. My J45 does not have a number it has the rectangle bridge. Even after the J guitars went to the belly bridge the LGs retained the rectangle. I'm just not that up on the LGs, seems they had the rectangle bridge up to the 60s but the thru saddle I think was on the early ones, so that may help you identify a year. The numbers can fade or be impossible to see. I don't know what the numbers 777 mean on the back of the headstock. I don't remember what year the natural topped LG3 was introduced, 1947? You don't see many late 40s LG3, infact you see much fewer LG3 than LG2. The first car I owned in 1971 was a 1959 Porsche 356 convertible. Like to have that one back. Terry
  8. You mean the pins that hold the strings? Don't worry about that. The tuning machines on the head of the guitar should be open back, meaning you can see the gears. TM
  9. It does on vintage Gibsons. They are known for somewhat sloppy glue work. In fact some vintage Gibsons are a bit crude on the inside. Just the way they are, nothing to be concerned about. Selling a guitar can be a real pain even if you know guitars, especially when the buyer doesn't know anything about vintage guitars. Terry
  10. here is the link to a 1946 Gibson LG2 on ebay, nice looking guitar with a Buy It Now price of $3150. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=330299712678&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=014 That dripping stuff is glue. Terry
  11. 1946 Gibson LG 2. This is a "script only" logo accepted by most as a 1946. The 1946 typically do not have any numbers. The script only guitars have a reputation as good sounding guitars. There are many, myself included, who have a particular fondness for the 46 models. Their prices will rival the earlier banner head models especially the LG model. I believe there may be one on ebay now. You may want to watch that auction. Also check gbase, you can search for a Gibson LG2. I would estimate $3500 range if it is as nice as it looks. Terry
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