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Sheepdog1969, You are asking an open-ended question which will result in as many different suggestions as replies. You would be better served visiting music stores and playing instruments that fit the parameters you've set. Good luck on your quest. RBSinTo

It depends on what sound you want. I’m known as the Martin guy, but the best IMHO acoustic I ever played was a Preston Thompson. Now to get one, there are no entry level models, and you’re gonna drop 5k minimum for the least expensive one. You want the Martin sound or the Gibson thump or something different? I used to love Dreads and still do, but they are just too big for me. I like 000 size guitars.

I have 12 acoustic guitars and my favorite is my 1990 J-160E.

The first guitar I ever played, and learned to play on, was an acoustic. My Dad had a Yamaha FG-150 that he bought new, presumably in the early 1070's. From time to time, he would get it out and strum a bit for me and my brother. Dad came from a musical family that played/performed at taverns and bars for Tips, just to make a few extra bucks to survive. Dad knew the basics, and could play enough chords to sing and entertain us. He also knew the names of those chords, which really helped me when I begged him to teach me how to play. I was 8 when he felt my hands were big and strong enough to start to learn. And, after much pain and frustration throughout countless hours of practicing on that Yamaha, he told me that I had learned all that I could from him because I already knew everything he knew. I was on my own from there, and did my best to learn by listening (and playing with) songs on the radio and/or the albums I had access to. At that time, none of my friends played, and I couldn't learn online, because the internet didn't even exist at that time. I didn't even touch or play another guitar, other than that Yamaha, until I was in my teens. Guitar lessons were not an option, because my financially strapped parents were already paying for me to learn trombone through the Public School music program. Although I am glad that I began learning and playing on an acoustic guitar, it saddens me that it took me so long to learn that not all acoustics were as difficult to play as that Yamaha was/is. The second guitar I ever played was my friends POS beginner electric. I couldn't believe how easy it was to fret, especially bar chords. I remember having to force myself to stop using so much pressure as I played chords, because I was literally mashing both E strings off the fretboard when I played a simple G chord, (and with every bar chord). I had to mellow out with my picking/strumming, as well. (Dad never taught me about changing strings, so the Yamaha had super dead, super old strings on it.) I think I was a junior in High School before I got to play a good acoustic, and I remember it was an Ovation with the curved back. It was big and heavy, but I swear it fretted like my '83 Explorer. And, best of all, it sounded full and loud with little to no effort from either hand. Over the years I have played a few decent acoustics, but I have never played a Gibson or a Martin, so I really don't know what real quality feels like when played, (let alone what real quality sounds like when played by me). I have been gifted two acoustics, in addition to my Dad's Yamaha (which he gave to me when I turned 13). Both are Oscar Schmidt's by Washburn, One is a 12 string that's Model number is 292035-01 OD312. The other is a 6 string, but it is in a case in the back, and it's not worth bothering to pull it out just to get it's model number. Both have to be super low cost, and I know the 12 was made in China, (I bet the 6 was too.). The 12 is actually easier to play than the six, and both are way easier to play than the Yamaha. But that's not saying much. Because of it's size, and the 12 strings, the 12 has a richer tone, but neither of them are anything to write home about. They all just seem to have a thin tone, for lack of a better word. I am actually ok with how the 12 string is easier to fret that the other two six strings, even with the added complexity of 12 strings. Sadly, it takes so long to tune vs. a 6, that I don't play it as much as I should. I also shy away from playing the 6 strings because of how hard they are to fret/play, which sucks. When strung with lighter strings, they obviously play easier, but the tone goes from thin to emaciated. I am hoping to find a quality acoustic that I don't have to fight to play, that produces decent tone, and isn't so darn purdy and 'spensive that I won't want to play it out at the fire pit. I am not looking to buy this guitar tomorrow, and it is kind of a wish list thing right now. I am thinking pre owned instead of new, and don't mind scuffs/wear as long as they don't hurt how it plays. I also would rather sacrifice some tone for ease of play, if I have to. Any suggestions?

Apropos flaming Doves goin' to quilt - here's my Firebird, , , , , , in the company of the new 2020 ES-335 which Santa most fortunately brought just before X-mas.

Steve Martin’s character in the Jerk was born a poor black child. It killed me when he found his special purpose.

Well no duh the joint is at the 16th fret. I just didn't have that option with the components I was working with so I made well with what I had, and for a total of about $800 I'm gonna have a nice playing and sounding geetar when it's all done. And really dude you're not the final approval on projects or what is good or not good. .... I'm happy and that's all that counts.

Some people hear a noticeable difference, some don’t. I think it depends on the person and the guitar. I removed the Baggs Element UST from my J45 Standard and thought it made a huge difference. Part of it is that the Tusq saddle wiggles a bit in the slot. I put in a new bone saddle that was a snug fit in the slot and it seemed to make the saddle, bridge and top vibrate as one. If you’re unsure about removing it, you can try it by just removing the saddle, lifting the UST braid out of its slot and pulling/pushing it into the hole in the bridge under the saddle (into the guitar). The wiring clips will keep it from banging around in there and you can put in a new saddle and string it back up. If you decide to remove it permanently, you’ll need to pull the wiring out from the clips (you can feel inside where they are), detaching the battery bag, and removing the preamp and endpin jack. Just be careful removing the endpin jack so you don’t scratch the finish. You can do it, just take your time and use the right tools.

The neck joint was at the 16th fret in 1982 and 1959 so something is wrong. I don’t want to be a **** but I would never approve of what you’ve done here it just isn’t good

You are a lucky soul. 🙂

Looks fine to me considering what needed to be done to keep the fretboard end from imposing on the neck pickup cavity. It's comfortable and nobody is going to see it, unless I decide to pull a Jimi Hendrix and play with my teeth. Plus I've seen some of those PRS neck joints from hell that were done on purpose..... What I did was done out of necessity to fit a 1982 Gibson neck on a 59 spec Les Paul body.......... I'm pleased so far.

You mentioned how you don’t understand why CNCs shape bracing heavier. That was where I realized you are lacking knowledge which I may not be willing to help you with. If interested in learning more, that is an apparent weak spot. The things that I’m wrong about are in your imagination since I didn’t write them

The 1/2 coat is probably the last thing I’d ask about. The neck joint looks horrendous and LPs are supposed to have the neck joint at the 16th fret so I’m not sure what we’re doing here but it’s not right.

Okay, and I know what you are wrong about from my side, so let’s just agree to be wrong together, cheers.

The first coat when spray nitro is a mist coat. I found it helps the subsequent coats from running. i dunno man.... it works for me. lol

These are the kinds of guitars that you do not as much feel you own but have been appointed the caretaker of. I know because I have had a 1942 J50 living with me for something over 12 years now. It is also the instrument where it finally hit home that the guitar you were meant to have will find you. And while I do not want to make you weep, my total investment in this guitar came to $1K less than what a new Historic Collection '42 Banner J45 would run me. But I have always been one lucky S.O.B. when it comes to Gibsons.

I understand what you’re wrong about and why you’re wrong about it but it’s too much work for me to convince you with no incentive

How do you spray 1/2 a coat?

You're fine. But I will tell you something you should know. The guitar is legit and really a great ES. But it is not a Custom Shop guitar. Gibson was intentionally being misleading at the time and we are still having to deal with their marketing shenanigans to this day and will probably forever. First to explain, there was never a Custom Shop in Memphis. So any guitar made in Memphis, including yours is not a Custom Shop guitar. Yes, despite that some have Custom Shop COAs, Custom Shop cases and even say Custom Shop right on the guitar. How can that be? During a few year stretch back when your guitar was made, Gibson marketing decided to market certain Memphis models as "Custom Shop Series" models. This info was obscure in their marketing info and remains obscure to this day. They eventually abandoned this totally misleading marketing deception. But the damage was already done. Note that all Memphis models came with COAs. but there are a few different versions of Memphis COAs. That all said, there was really no reason for Gibson to try to oversell any ES models. They were great guitars in their own right. A big step up from Gibson USA levels. Their top models did rival Nashville Custom Shop quality.

Go under your profile icon, open Images. Click on the image you want to share it should look like this, click the circled link (just fyi, I had trouble uploading this image, so imgur maybe having issues. We’ll see if this one stays up.)

Got the paint tent set up and removed the nut and laid down 2.5 coats of nitro clear. Only 12 more coats to go.

So. when you are in IMGUR and you have your collection of pictures open, click on the image you want. It will open in a new widow with a list of "copy" options on the right. Click on "copy" in the "direct link" line. Then open the Gibson Forum and go to the link you want to add the picture to. Place your cursor where you want the pic to go and "Right click". Click the "paste" option, (not paste as plain text, or any other paste option.) For a split second you will see the direct link alphanumeric text link appear, and then it will be replaced by the image associated with the "direct link". You will then see a pop up message indicating you just pasted an image link that will appear as an image, and the pop up gives you an option to switch this type of "pasting" to just show the link address instead. Ignore or dismiss this pop up. When you click the copy button (direct image link) in IMGUR, it automatically saves the image address into your PC as if you "right clicked" on an image and then clicked "copy"/"copy image"/"copy image address", so you could right click and click paste when and where you wanted to insert the image.

Wow. That’s quite a take. Appreciate the knowledge. Where, and I’m not trying to be difficult, did you get your information on pedals? It seems like it’s pretty extensive.

I thought your post was okay, but yeah, it did sound like you were implying that unlike Taylor, Gibson has a bunch of master luthiers patiently carving away at each individual brace for 100s of standard guitars a day. Sorry, if I came off touchy. I get now you were only talking about the true hand-built uber high-end customs. I’m not in the market for any of those, and I hope the folks that are paying those prices for Taylor’s are savvy enough to know what they should compare to. Our 914 12-fret would be the closest to that sort of instrument. It competes with the Keb-Mo. The no frills, standard build, Gibson L00 12-fret (also machined) was more expensive than the used 912 Taylor that sported AAA grade woods, and frankly, it showed in the tones. Believe me, I really thought the Gibby would win. There are a few other intangibles with Taylor, like we appreciate their environmental efforts, and that they are still owned by Taylor and his buddies and the employees. We kinda dig that sort of hippy vibe, even if it is second hand. Also, I’m not sure where you are getting the info that CNC cuts heavy or is less accurate than hand shaping. CNCs can be programmed down to microns. It’s the same tech that is used in robotic neurosurgery, and you know they are not going to let those machines cut any more than they have to 😄. Not sure if guitars need that kind of accuracy, but there is no reason the lasers can’t be dialed in to account for the stock being loaded, and again, humans are still doing the final building, so they are going to catch anything that doesn’t pass the specs.

I didn’t see “ direct link” as an option. https://imgur.com/a/rSkJNWs I hit return….nothing……