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Dub-T-123

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Yet again I didn't get too much done... Arrggg.. kind of annoying but not much I can do about it.

 

Anyway.. The necks are set in good and I got a lot of the neck carving done on both and started measuring for the pickup and bridge positions which hopefully I will get to finish tomorrow.

 

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So I finally got around to my Epi Black Beauty upgrade. I ditched all the original stuff. pups, pots, bridge, tail piece. Replaced with Seymour Duncan Seth Lover pickups, Emerson pots, Emerson PIO cap, Faber ABR tone lock bridge (awesome) and Bigsby. I actually already had the Bigsby on it but it was mounted on a vibramate. I got rid of that and mounted it right on the top. Finally, and this is the coolest thing, I replaced the pickup selector with a "Free-way" switch (https://www.freewayswitch.com/). It is a six position switch that looks like a stock 3 way.

 

It is wired like this:

 

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Rabs those are really coming together man. Did you notice that the carve became kinda asymmetrical around the electronics? The right side is more like a straight line, the left is much more curved. Not to critique of course, just thought if you didn't notice it would be best to change it now before a finish is applied

 

I ordered some hand tools from stewmac for nut, saddle, and fret work so I'm pretty excited to get started with that. Got a really beautiful Warmoth Strat coming in the mail that I got finished by a forum member so that should be pretty badass when it's all together

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Rabs those are really coming together man. Did you notice that the carve became kinda asymmetrical around the electronics? The right side is more like a straight line, the left is much more curved. Not to critique of course, just thought if you didn't notice it would be best to change it now before a finish is applied

 

I ordered some hand tools from stewmac for nut, saddle, and fret work so I'm pretty excited to get started with that. Got a really beautiful Warmoth Strat coming in the mail that I got finished by a forum member so that should be pretty badass when it's all together

Cheers man.. And yes I was aware.. I did the same thing on the Korina build and as I thought, once the knobs are on its all less obvious.. Had to be done like that.. But im ok with it :)

 

AND I started the oiling.. Ohh wow.. What amazing wood.

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And the front too

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:D

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Well walnut 1 is well on the way..

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And walnut 2 is not far behind.. I have had a design change though. The binding has come off and now has a bevel around the edge, almost like one of those Firebrand double cuts.. So this is now what it looks like

 

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Wow, that's a good looking guitar Rabs.

 

I finally started working on my Strat, I will be working slowly but consistently, one thing every week.

 

Contoured heel.

 

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Neck profile shaping is done.

 

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Waterslide application

 

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Decided to go with the simpler version

 

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Wow, that's a good looking guitar Rabs.

 

Cool.. Good stuff there :)

 

And this guitar got shown to the public this weekend. Went down very well too. Almost got sold.. I saw it on the players faces.. The logic vs GAS fight... Haha.. :)

 

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:)

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FYI, if you're using mica capacitors, there have been lots of failures reported of these Chinese Suntan capacitors like these. I'm not sure if it's just the ones marked "SM" or what. I just had one fail and people in the amp business have been talking about it. We're getting rid of all the ones we have and replacing them with Cornell Dublier caps.

 

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You know, I just put one of those in that control tone on my Epi Valve junior and as I posted on this thread the control works but it did bring in hiss, I wonder if it's the capacitor.

 

I also put one on the bright cap of my DSL15h and while it does work I wonder if it is bringing in noise.

 

I noticed both where out of spec but I never really used caps of these values before.

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You know, I just put one of those in that control tone on my Epi Valve junior and as I posted on this thread the control works but it did bring in hiss, I wonder if it's the capacitor.

 

If the tone cap failed in a Valve Jr. you'd hear some scratchiness on the volume control when you move it back and forth. [thumbup]

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  • 3 weeks later...

'74 Bassman with footswitchable channels & effects loop. The "Drive" channel has another gain stage and two more gain contouring controls and custom voicing. The footrswitchable channel mod will be universally adaptable to all vintage Fender two channel amps. Of course, you have to revoice one of the channels because theyre usually both pretty much the same. WGS ET65 speaker.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVAdP5PIgwY

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I'm not a DIY guy but here's my recently fully-serviced and working Vox AC10 amp.

This was given to me in a non-working state in the late 80s and since then I have spent £££ over the years on getting it going.

 

Finally last month our harmonica player's father who is a valve amp enthusiast looked at it and replaced £20 worth of parts - caps, jacks, etc.

It sounds absolutely superb now but doesn't look so good as you can see.

 

The original AC10 was a 10" combo so this is the amp head alone which must have been taken out of the combo and put in this box.

It'll do but perhaps I should repaint it or Tolex it (how do you do that well? I have no idea, or tools) - and ideally I should make or get a new box for it.

Unfortunately me and carpentry is like Basil Fawlty and his non-starting car!

 

Notice the way it's built with the valves inside at right angles to each other, and one of them has a mesh inside the valve itself. The controls were always at the top on Vox amps.

 

BBP and Dub, I'd love to hear what you think..I know you are both accomplished cabinet builders so I can guess you'd have no hesitation (or trouble) in making a new box.

 

Top

 

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Underside

 

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Front (that handle has got to go)

 

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And the back which I...uh...decorated after I got it fixed the 1st time (oh dear!) I named thee...Shredmaster!

 

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Best wishes folks!

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The amp itself looks so cool! The tube with the mesh inside is the EF86, here’s kindof a closeup of a Mullard EF86 I have

 

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Personally I would build a new cab. The construction of this cab does not really look nice enough to where paint or tolex will be able to help much. The 1/4” bottom looks warped, kinda loose, and unevenly joined with a butt joint (the least stable joint for this application). It seems like a foolish idea to use 1/4” for the bottom in the first place. It looks like the 1/4” bottom has flexed allowing the 2 piece chassis to get bent up slightly

 

I think Vox used to make a lot of cabinets out of particle board, so I’m assuming the original was destroyed by water or something and the owner at the time did their best to save the amp

 

Although of course I know you don’t want to dump more money into the project, I gotta advise getting a new cab. That cab does not appear to be worthy of the amp.

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Yes, think you are right.

 

Am inclined to save money and try building a cab myself. Probably couldn't do any worse than what I've already got.

What wood should I use? I've got some MDF but that's probably not good enough.

The only power tools I have are an electric drill and screwdriver!

 

I remember my very 1st cab was an old Vox 15" which was built like a brick sh*thouse and incredibly heavy.

 

Need to look at some 'building a cab'-type vids on Youtube next.... :-k

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