Bender 4 Life Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 3 yrs ago, for Valentines day, Mrs.B. surprised me with a really sweet lightly used '04 EJ200 and a brand new HSC for it. (Epi makes some darn fine cases btw!!) After I removed the "Deadhead" stickers from all over it w/naptha I realized it's a beautiful guitar. Not sure if it's a "transition" model, or solid/laminate top, but it sounds great....problem is action height. It has a small, but distinct "belly" at the bridge due to string tension & oversized strings.....but i've read dozens of reviews singing the praises of the Bridge Doctor. I just ordered one from Stewmac.com...and if it works, i'll be ordering a bone nut/saddlepiece/bridge-pins for it as well....i'll keep y'all posted as the project progresses. i'm planning on relieving the belly over a period of 1-2 weeks, a small tweak at a time to avoid breaking the pressure-rod included w/the device, as the instructions suggest. wish me luck and we'll see how it goes. and I know....it doesn't happen w/o : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supersonic Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Good luck Bender I used to own one of those myself and loved it. Looked just like that except mine had the design on the pickguard. I really wish I hadn't sold it since they are discontinued now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Guitar tops are not flat and a slight bellying is perfectly normal. I think it was Norman Blake who once said never trust a guitar without one. Did you measure how much belly there is with a straight edge? The Bridge Doctor though is a great product and cheap enough. It is almost a survival kit if you play an old 12 string. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Good luck Bender I used to own one of those myself and loved it. Looked just like that except mine had the design on the pickguard. I really wish I hadn't sold it since they are discontinued now. Guitar tops are not flat and a slight bellying is perfectly normal. I think it was Norman Blake who once said never trust a guitar without one. Did you measure how much belly there is with a straight edge? The Bridge Doctor though is a great product and cheap enough. It is almost a survival kit if you play an old 12 string. Supersonic......the same Zippo fluid that removed the dried on stickers also removed the tattered remnants of the pg design. Zombiewoof......the belly has increased substantially since i've had the guitar....not measured it but it's def. "too much belly", as the bridge is now at an angle, but not "lifting" yet, so the Bridge Dr may be "just what the Dr ordered". next time I have it out, i'm going inside it w/a flashlight & mirror to find out what the top is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonCarlos Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Hello. Great looking guitar I used a bridge doctor on a 39 year old MIJ Ventura. It did the trick. I am sure you have already estimated the position of where the drill hole and plug will be. They do send you a plastic mop plug but you could actually used whatever you want of course, even wood. I agree with doing small tweaks over a period of time. At the time I did mine I had read, "leave the strings up to pitch" and " don't leave the strings up to pitch ". This is what I did based upon "taking a slow and safe approach and not damaging braces, tops, necks or anything else". -remove strings -install jdl - turn the adjustment to where the dowel touches the rear block, then turn 1/2 turn -leave it alone for a day and then repeat -after a week of this turns I started to see a significant change in the top -by the second week with minute turns, it reach a near flat bridge angle across the top of the bridge. Then I put on both e strings, brought it to pitch, and then adjusted for sound. The jdl can make some strange changes to the sound, yes it can increase sustain but also it can really change intonation. The reason for only putting the two e strings on is so you can fit your hand inside to do the adjustment. Ideally if you could make an extension for an Allen wrench you could do all six strings. When you think you have it right. Put on your other strings, bring them up to pitch. Leave the guitar for a day or two and see if the jdl will hold the angle. It did on mine. But I had to adjust the thing for sound a few more times returning back to the two sting method a couple times. Remember you can always capo your strings at the first fret to avoid removing the other 4 completely, just so you can get your hand inside . Pretty long response I know, but that's what I remember from the experience. One thing that stuck in my head during all this was that it took a while the guitar top to get in that condition and so it should take a steady approach to change the top back so it does not crack, or so nothing else cracks. Keep us posted, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Thank you Don Carlos ! that wasn't a long reply at all, and I appreciate the input from someone else that's used the JDL. It shipped Tuesday morn, so it should be here Thurs. or Fri. then the fun starts ! i'll post "progression" pics as I install and adjust it, for anyone else considering using one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted November 16, 2013 Author Share Posted November 16, 2013 alright....it arrived yesterday as I was leaving for work (as always). looking at it this morning, i'm a bit upset, because i'm seeing (i'll be generous) MAYBE $1 worth of low grade hickory, screws, and plastic. the shipping box cost more than what was in it i'm sure, including paying someone for the 5 minutes it took to cut out the pieces & pre-assemble it. $31 incl. shipping?? wow...I got TOOK. i'll definitely diagram everything and make my own for my other acoustic....and if any of y'all want one at a REASONABLE price...just pm me. anyhow...it's about bedtime, but this evening i'll start the "photo essay" of the installation/use of the mighty bridge dr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 wow that was easy ! and took about an hour, taking my time and measuring twice. step 1 is remove your strings and saddle, at which point all belly disappeared. step 2 is laying the block on its side, placing the "tongue" at the saddle slot, and determining at which of 3 positions you want to mount the "mounting post" to the block, for perfect positioning of the mounting screw. Then center punching your bridge at that exact location.(I chose exactly between the 2 pearloid pieces in the bridge). The next step, they had oddly reversed re: the order i've always drilled a dual sized single hole in....i'll explain it the way I did it, to avoid confusion. Step 3 is to drill a 9/64" hole all the way thru the bridge, then a 1/4" hole to a depth of 1/8" at the top of the 9/64" hole(to hide the mounting screw head). I did this step w/my Grandfathers #1 Craftsman hand drill he purchased new in 1929. (posting so I don't lose all this typing should the power blink) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 The next step is to remove the tension screw from the block, and mount the block inside the guitar with the tongue directly under the saddle and with the tension rod hole running true to the guitars tail block. Then insert the rod thru the JLD block, making sure the rod end is centered on the tailblock. Mark the rod at the point that it protrudes from the top of the JLD block. Cut the flat end + 3/8" off the rod, and reinstall into the JLD block, making sure the pointed end centers the tailblock. Re-install the tension screw(now atop the tension rods flat end) into the JLD block and tighten it w/a (not supplied) 3/8" allen wrench until all "play" is removed from the rod. i'm going to reinstall the strings as Don Carlos described, giving small adjustments as I do, over a period of a week or 2.....and we'll see how it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonCarlos Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Great pics and great step by step information. . Will take away the mystery from the uninitiated. I like that you used a hand drill (last thing you want to do is split the bridge). I know that at the time I was doing it, I came across a photo of someone that made an extension to the allen wrench. That allowed for continual tweaking with all the strings on, but I couldn't find that just now looking. Good luck. And I look forward to your future posts. I wish that I would have taken photos of mine when I was doing it….the end result was pretty dramatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 Great pics and great step by step information. . Will take away the mystery from the uninitiated. I like that you used a hand drill (last thing you want to do is split the bridge). I know that at the time I was doing it, I came across a photo of someone that made an extension to the allen wrench. That allowed for continual tweaking with all the strings on, but I couldn't find that just now looking. Good luck. And I look forward to your future posts. I wish that I would have taken photos of mine when I was doing it….the end result was pretty dramatic. thank you DC !! i'll probably end up doing the final "tweaks" with a 3/8" allen head socket on an extension with a 1/4" drive ratchet, I already have all the tools, just have to dig them out....1/2 a turn is 1/2 a turn, no matter how it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 ok.....checked it this morning. fretboard, bridge, and soundboard all still level. gave the tension screw 1/2 turn in anticipation of string tension, and installed the E strings (.10 & .47) brought them to pitch, stretch, tune, repeat 3x. fretboard, bridge, and soundboard all level. action, incredible!!....no fret buzz, intonation, crack on! in 48 hrs i'll give it 1/4 turn, install the A & B strings, and repeat the entire process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 ooooooo K here we're 10 days on from the last report.....only made 1 TINY tweak in the meantime, and have reduced my action height by more than half, using standard E-E tuning (which I normally reserve for electrics, my acoustics are normally D-D). I believe i've reached my optimum action using JUST the Bridge Dr. the components may seem cheap, and probably are, but it's done exactly what it promised it would do, and anybody with even a rudimentary knowledge of woodwork and a basic beginners toolset should be able to achieve the same success I did with it. the "extra" benefit it mentions as "improved tone and sustain" is as absolutely real as the improvement of the action....Mrs B. had to ask me if i'd gotten a new acoustic when she heard me playing w/o seeing/knowing which guitar I was using..."THAT sounds better than anything you've had so far" were her exact words.....she was quite surprised when I showed her what I was playing......and i'm surprised considering my other 2 flat-tops have solid spruce tops. all I can say is, buy it, use it, enjoy it.......I sure am ! (side note.....i'm not sure how to do it, but perhaps parts of this thread can/should be added to the DIY section of the forum) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonCarlos Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Good Job. this thread can/should be added to the DIY section of the forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 it's been inside my EJ for 4 months now, the action is absolutely superb, and the neck hasn't needed an adjustment besides the one after 1st installing it. the sustain & "ringout" are still wonderful, to the point of my having to use more muting to kill "wolf-tones" (sympathetic vibration/sustain), which is a non issue for me. i've noticed a few "my actrion is high" threads as I scroll down this forum, and i'm absolutely convinced that w/correct neck adjustment & nut cut, this product can cure just about any other ill an acoustic guitar may have. ~B4L~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffmac Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 beautiful guitar I wish my wife would do that for me ( I want one so bad) congrats on the successful install. From what I've read a perfectly hydrated guitar should slightly bellied out so you could and should check that. According to epiphone the new cutaway versions are spruce top and maple back and sides hope to get one soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 BUMPED.....for L84theshow..... enjoy Bro' !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L8_4thesh0w Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 BUMPED.....for L84theshow..... enjoy Bro' !! Great job with the step by step posts! A hearty Attaboy to the genius who came up with that as well, however many years or centuries ago it may have been. It's always wonderful to find the 20th Century equivalent to "there's an app for that", especially when it breathes new life into something you care about. I love old tools like your hand drill too. The top is actually in quite good shape. There is just the slightest, barely noticeable bellying. It has obviously been taken care of. The Martin XLs I put on are fairly close to what was on it before. Now for the gory details: quite some time after buying the guitar I noticed a peculiar mark on the upper rear of the head. Upon closer inspection I determined it to read "2ND". After even further inspection I found nothing appearing to be a major defect, until I tried to improve the action by removing the 2 saddle shims. It helped but still seemed high at the nut as tension was still hard at the 1st fret. Sighting down the neck from the sound hole I finally detected a slight but definite upward arc from the 2nd fret to the nut. The neck will need to be shaved and dressed, binding and all, and a new nut fitted and replaced with bone. The very helpful fellow from Customer Service gave me the name of a local Luthier who performs authorized service for Epi and Gibson. As it turns out, I had already visited the store he works out of and picked up his business card (he was out at the time so I did not get to speak with him personally). If this was a cheapo beater guitar I would probably just use the rasp and some sandpaper but I am sure if I leave it to the hands of a skilled craftsman it will be as valuable to me and as playable as any model more than twice the price. I have been very attached to it ever since I got it and from the 2nd & 3rd frets up it plays quite well. Even with issues it still plays better than the Ovation Pacemaker 12 I used to have. Updates and pics to follow, but not until my L6-S's loose pickup repair has been taken care of. Thanks Bender! Take care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 YIKES !! yeah, that's a job for a pro....... keep us updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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