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Straplock noob question


cosmitron

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There are straplocks installed on my dear SG.

But the screws that fix the strap to the body keep unscrewed themselves after 1 hour of rehearse. I barely play on stage more than 45 minutes but I don't feel safe. So I've tried to change those Schaller straplocks but I can't find any straplocks with short screws - you know for the one at the neck joint, and the gibson stock strap screw heads are too large to fit the Schaller or the dunlop.

Any idea??

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so, the actual screw attaching the button to the body is coming loose? that is not good at all. Sounds like they are not tight enough, and/or the holes are stripped. For stripped holes I recommend using cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) to solidify the loose wood in the hole. take a toothpick and put some of the "thick" crazy glue on it, and then use the toothpick to get it down into the hole. Work it in/out a few times and make sure you don't pull out any sawdust... if it's stuck on the tooth pick try to stick it back in the hole. After this dries, do it again, which should go much easier.

 

Screw the strap button back in. It should be solid now, and won't come off.

 

Now, if you are talking about the bolt that keeps the strap attached to the lock, well you don't have it on tight enough. You WILL need a crescent wrench/spanner to properly attach it. I kinda wish they used the spring clips like dunlop does. Someone needs to make a BETTER strap lock with the attachment system of the schaller but the strap attachment system of the dunlop. Dunler? Schallop?

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Typically, the straplocks won't fit into the holes for the stock strap buttons on Gibsons. TboneSullivan has some nice suggestions though (luthier quality). Just proceed at your own risk. You don't want to do this wrong and end up with your guitar cracked open on stage in the middle of a gig... [scared]

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Fcuk strap locks! This works wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better:

 

84be6a82e2e828d9c689ae205decf9d4.jpg

 

 

Once you give one of these straps a try, you'll never go back to strap locks! msp_thumbup.gif

 

Awesome Mate, thanks for posting this strap... I reckon I will grab one of these straps when I pick up my SG 61 RI in 2 weeks time..

 

In relation to Schaller strap locks, I had the same problem with my 08 Fender American Standard Strat. I put the Schaller locks on it and within a week after a couple of shows I nearly **** myself when I took it out of the case. I used half a match stick and wood glue and it is fixed the problem..

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Dumb question, but I literally just picked up the Dunlop Straplok kit (SLS1101N), are you guys saying these will not fit? (Screw too long for neck bolt?)

 

Thanks..

You would have to shorten the screw to be able to use it on the neck. You might also have to drill out the hole a bit.

 

The big problem is that the strap button screws Gibson uses for the neck joint and the bottom body are totally different in size. When Gibson finishes guitars they put a big ol' hook in the bottom of the body, so that strap button has a beefy screw. The screw for the neck joint is actually pretty anemic. Either way, unless you reuse the original screws, you'll either have to drill out or fill in the strap button holes.

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Schaller makes a great straplock, but as others have said, the screws on a Gibson are two different sizes.

Using the original screws is key.

This will avoid stripping the wood by using a different, or a different-sized screw.

The problem is, the straplock is too small to accept the head of the original rear screw, so the rear straplock must be drilled/bored out just enough to accept the original screw to it's original depth.

You can measure how much screw protrudes from the bottom of the original strap-button, and when that much is protruding from the Schaller, you're there. If more is showing that's OK too, it's fresh wood you're biting into.

I have used this metheod to install Schallers on all my guitars.

Never had one fail, or even come loose.

The worst you can do is ruin half a $25 set of straplocks.

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The grooves in the original screws, match the grooves in the guitar... Perfectly.

So it shouldn't be an issue.

I don't know what the Schaller screws are made of, but Aluminum wins over wood, so I don't think the material of the screw is as important as the size, and matching the existing hole in the wood.

Also, using the original screws, as opposed to larger one for the rear lock etc., allows you to return the guitar to it's original condition.

This may not be important if you intend to keep the guitar forever, and don't intend to sell it later, or if you don't care about returning it to it's original condition before selling it.

But there are those who prefer to have that option weather they're keeping it or not, maybe because it's a vintage piece, or just a personal preference.

Also some people want to purchase a used instrument that hasn't had any modifications done to it that can't be easily reversed.

 

Just my opinion.

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both of my guitars are recent make. I don't particularly care to sell to anyone who would consider replacing mechanically inferior cheesy aluminum buttons and screws with quality equipment to be "modifications" that hurt the value of an instrument. It's a strap button.

 

So, replacing mechanically inferior, cheesy, aluminum buttons wouldn't hurt the value of the instrument if they are replaced and the changes/modifications to the instrument are permanent?

Tell that to someone with a vintage guitar.

Or someone with a brand new guitar who measures the value of their guitar differently than you do.

Like I said, some people do care, weather they play vintage, or recent make, and the advice was for their benefit.

If you are OK with temporarily or permanently modifying your recent make instruments, that's cool.

But I don't understand why you would'nt even consider selling to someone who maybe had those concerns.

Or why you had to make that known.

Their money is just as green as yours.

For some people it's not just a strap button.

But you shouldn't look down on them for it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fcuk strap locks! This works wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better:

 

84be6a82e2e828d9c689ae205decf9d4.jpg

 

 

Once you give one of these straps a try, you'll never go back to strap locks! msp_thumbup.gif

 

 

Two concerns...a curious child adjusts the strap w/out your knowledge...and the potential impact of the 'rubber' up against your guitar's finish.

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This works wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better:

 

84be6a82e2e828d9c689ae205decf9d4.jpg

 

 

Once you give one of these straps a try, you'll never go back to strap locks! msp_thumbup.gif

 

 

I have a black Planet Wave locking strap too. I bought it to use one of my vintage axes, but it won't work on the bottom with the Bigsby.

 

I much prefer Schaller strap locks. Like it has been said by others, use the original screws or get new screws the same size as the original ones. You will need to drill the holes in the Schaller strap button a little bit, and grind the screw head down to fit inside (I used my dremel with a small grinding wheel) The whole

process takes all of 5 minutes to install them. I haven't had any problems with them coming loose.

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I have a black Planet Wave locking strap too. I bought it to use one of my vintage axes, but it won't work on the bottom with the Bigsby.

 

I much prefer Schaller strap locks. Like it has been said by others, use the original screws or get new screws the same size as the original ones. You will need to drill the holes in the Schaller strap button a little bit, and grind the screw head down to fit inside (I used my dremel with a small grinding wheel) The whole

process takes all of 5 minutes to install them. I haven't had any problems with them coming loose.

 

 

+1

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