Mr.Woody
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Posts posted by Mr.Woody
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I used the session DI for several years live, and then moved onto the Venue DI for tuning and boost options. I love them both and never go without the Venue on acoustic.
For live stuff, the Venue is a little more practical. The xlr plug is on the back, the pedal as a whole is flatter, and it also offers a 1/4" out with its own volume control. There is a mute/tuner button and level indicator which is superbly helpful.
I should add that, unlike the session, the Venue cannot be powered with phantom power. You'll have to have the battery or power supply.
But the session is an excellent tool, and I would buy another one without hesitation if I needed another DI!
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I suggest the LR Baggs Lyric, as that's what I use in my 2018 Legend.
Heres a few examples of my plugged in sound. I use a Baggs Venue as my EQ to notch the feedback at live volume.
These do have a bit of that AKG condenser mixed in.
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23 hours ago, fortyearspickn said:
Just noticed - your orange sound hole label says "Limited Edition". I don't recall ever seeing that before. Just checked - I have two that say 'Guaranteed' and one that says 'Custom Shop' (although it is a limited edition according to the certificate that came with it.) . I was just getting comfortable with the Orange vs White thing.
If I had to guess - I'd agree with your wondering if when you removed and re-positioned your pick guard shortly after you got it - likely caused the glumpy spots that are visible now. Sort of like fingerprints in wet paint.
Yeah, this particular model (the "1942 J-45 Legend") was only available in Japan, but then Chicago Music Exchange obtained the rights to have it made here. So, it's custom shop, but has a limited label.
And i think you're right about me being the cause of the issue, because the pictures from when i first bought it don't look as bad.
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7 hours ago, Lars68 said:
I would try to put double sided tape strips underneath the black striped portions of the guard only, and leave the transparent bits unglued. This should still give plenty of adhesion, but if it starts to lift in a few years, you can just do it again. You can also use tiny drops of soft kids glue under black sections in strategic areas, such as the tip and around the edges.
Another suggestion is to paint the back of the guard matching the color of your guitar, before applying the double sided tape. Here you won't of course see the wood grain, but apart from that it will look very natural. I have done this by using acrylic paint mixed to create a crude burst pattern going from light to dark.
Here is a firestripe guard I painted. The guard is of a different kind but the problem with the adhesive showing through the guard was the same.
Wow, that looks perfect!!!!!!!!!!
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9 minutes ago, fortyearspickn said:
A beat up guitar with a pristine p/g not showing glue drops under magnification?
I have the same p/g and burst on my J45 and never noticed a problem.
you got it. I want all the "issues" to be of my doing, 🙂
Just for clarification, it's not about seeing "glue drops" it's about not seeing them 🙂
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4 hours ago, jedzep said:
Your pick should never scrape the top.
This is where our preferences differ 🙂 I LOVE a beat-up worn-in guitar!
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12 minutes ago, Dave F said:
If it was me and it comes off easy, take it off, get the glue off guitar and guard, clean it with Naphtha, put some 3M double sided clear transparent on the guard and re-apply. There's a few threads on this subject. Handy tips like using dental floss soaked in Naphtha to get the guard off and using painters tape like a hinge to position the guard. Good Luck!
wow, that's a GREAT idea. Does the double sided tape come in pieces large enough to cover the whole guard? And is it removable after that if needed?
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So, I do really like the looks of the modern firestripe pickguard (the more recent ones, not the caramel swirl form the mid-2000's), but I've figured out the main issue with them that stops them from looking great: It's the glue........ (rubber cement?) It's not evenly dispersed, and it doesn't stay put. It should be clear/invisible when applied correctly. The pickguard itself is a mix of dark opaque and se-through amber which allows the wood grain show through in the amber spots. This SHOULD make the top of the pickguard kinda fade into the burst instead of standing out on it. BUT the glue stops this from working as planned. Here's 2 pictures of mine. The first one is from the day after I bought it in 2019, and the second is recent. It looks like the glue is failing some over-time (it's a Gibson?).
So, here's a couple up-close shots, and you can see the glue underneath the guard. The left side is how it usually looks, and the right is the same section after pressing down hard on it for a few seconds. It's MUCH darker in those little splotches where the glue "disappears" when the guard/glue/wood are together as they should be.
The glue is very pliable, and I was able to remove and re-position the guard after I bought it, as it was cut a little crooked on the end, and positioned a little off-kilter. It's also true that perhaps I caused this problem myself by removing the guard to fix it in the first place?
Does anyone have any ideas about how to fix this? pull the guard, roll the glue off ( it comes off pretty easily) and put some new glue on the whole thing?
I'm sure it would look killer if it was all just pressed down nicely, maybe even better than it did when new!
Thanks,
Mr.Woody
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John, this really is outstanding! What a great mayor/commissioner to show such enthusiasm for this. Thanks for making this all happen!!
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21 hours ago, E-minor7 said:
You and music have traveled far - a member of the so called 10.000 hour Club.
Thanks! I really love it, and I'm one class away from finishing my Bachelor's of Music.
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4 hours ago, Lars68 said:
Good job on the chip. Given some time you will not think about it anymore.
Great song and playing too. Please post more songs when you can.
Lars
Thanks on both accounts! I don't have a ton of real songs on there, but here's a couple:
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7 hours ago, E-minor7 said:
You rock -
do we see no one else than Popeye over the bridge. And did that orange pick shoot through the top during one of these hefty performances. .
LOL, it does kind of look like Popeye! It's a little guy (I think his name is Pierre) that a kid in our kids club used to draw and I let her draw it on there.
There were usually 3 picks stuck in the top at a time. Very handy as a pick holder 🙂
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LOL, it's def from me. And honestly it's only from a handful of "active" strumming sessions. This finish is SUPER thin.
I just posted these on AGF, but here's my old #1 after 11 years
And my old beater/kids camp guitar after about 17 years
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Well, it's not perfect at all, but it's back in. The chip itself ended up breaking (I don't even know how/when), so there was some wood showing through in one spot. I went ahead and colored the wood with a dark pen until I can maybe touch it up with some lacquer or something. Overall, it's not terrible, so I'm moving on!
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Thanks for the extra input guys. I'm all on board with putting the chip back on, and I'll contact a luthier in the next few days just to get a ballpark estimate. I'm more inclined to do it myself for the reasons you have stated, but I do want to hear my wife's perspective on "taking care" of the guitar despite the scratches. She did let me buy it after all 😉
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Hi all, sorry for the slow reply!!
I have not glued the chip back in yet, but am considering letting a luthier do it. Not really sure of the cost/benefit ratio. I have a bottle of Titebond II sitting on the table here, and am completely comfortable doing it myself, although my wife has mentioned this being an expensive guitar (just under $5k), so it would be better to have it professionally done so it doesn't turn out looking "redneck" lol The top has started showing quite a few scratches (super thin finish), so I'm not sure it would be worth paying a luthier to make it "invisible" when there will be a bunch of scratches nearby. Thoughts?
I'm guessing since this isn't a warranty repair, taking it to a non-Gibson-authorized luthier won't have any impact on my Gibson warranty?
Oh, also as for the ring: I was tucking in the flap on the humidipack and when I pulled my fingers back out of the soundhole, my ring (with sharp edges) caught the edge. It all happened so quickly!! Never had that happen before for sure!
So here's what it looks like with the chip put back in place. Thoughts on having a luthier "do it right" and make it look like it never happened vs just doing it myself and coloring in the edges to hide it as best as possible?
Just for info sake, it's a 2018 "1942 J-45 Legend" bought at CME.
Also, here's my wedding ring. It's made from meteorite. It used to be mirror polished and the edges were more rounded, but over the last 12 years the "grain" has started showing, and the edges have sharpened a good bit. Funny thing.....my ring also has a chip in it lol
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Last Sunday while putting my guitar back in its case and putting the humidi-packs in, my wedding ring caught the edge of the sound hole and a "massive" chip broke off. I love the look of beat-up guitars and the chip doesn't bother me so much, but i'm curious of other's views on this. If you were looking to buy this guitar, would you want to see the chip glued back on, or left off?
Here's pics:
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I think it works really well with the mahogany B&S. This was new, and it has since still opened up quite a bit.
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4 hours ago, DanvillRob said:
What a great job!
LOVE the guitar! Great singing voice.... I'm sure that was a blessing to your parents' church folks.
Thanks so much, Rob. I don't think they've used it yet. Maybe saving it for a rainy day lol
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I was supposed to do 3 songs at my parents' church this past Sunday, but I had to leave town early for work, so they ended up with this instead. In the long run, a storm knocked out their video and they had someone else do a couple songs live. Probably better that way anyways 🙂
The vocals are a little dry/loud for regular listening, but for use in the service where people will be singing, it's needed.
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Well, I got word back from Vince with Gibson customer service. He reached out to the acoustic division and they responded with this
“Please let our customer know that we use wood glue for all of our bridge applications. When we refer to hide glue use it is:
On bracing of Historics where the original year of production used it
On ALL dovetail neck joints
I hope this helps. Wood glue is better.”
I guess that settles it from my end. Picking up the guitar this afternoon, and I'll be glad to have it back.
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So, if you were me, would you seek to have it put back to the original specs with hide glue even if it meant Gibson putting a new top on it? They agreed it would be too risky to try and fix it now. I understand the practical side, but on the principle side, I wanted a guitar with hide glue construction and that isn't what I have any longer. I'm usually very laid back, but this one has my feathers ruffled, mainly because someone is lying to me about what happened and I think the tech is trying to cover his butt because he rushed to get it done.
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Well, unfortunately, the guys at Third Coast took it upon themselves to use wood glue instead of hide glue as discussed with the owner. Pretty frustrated about it, and discussing with Gibson what the next course of action is. I'm glad it's playable, though.
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Good call on saving the receipts, didn't even think about that. And thanks for the feedback, that's super helpful.
Best sounding new Gibson I've heard on the tubes of you...
in Gibson Acoustic
Posted · Edited by Mr.Woody
It's pretty much the same thing as the "1942 J-45 Legend" that I have with a few differences:
Neck profile says "V-shape" where mine is a baseball bat, non-tiger-stripe pickguard, pearl dots on both sides of the bridge pins, and a lighter finish on the back of the new one.
Other than that, it seems pretty much the same.
Should sound like that with an L.R.Baggs lyric pickup