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Posts posted by ndx202

  1. On 8/7/2019 at 6:01 PM, blindboygrunt said:

    That's very definite 

    I hope you're happy with your guitar 

    I mean that with the utmost sincerity 

    Yes happy now Ive refretted it.. For what they cost you would think that the frets would be stainless steel to start with. Replaced the nut and saddle as the the frets are now a full 0.055" high. sound is much better and the action is a lot slicker. Plus no more worn frets. This is a keeper as I said the wood is right. The mids on the Hummingbird are very good and now the harmonics at the 3rd ' 5th 9h and 12th really ring. The guitar is also generally a lot louder. Hummingbird with brand new frets , cant get any better... Thanks for the concern Billyboygrunt.

  2. On 8/3/2019 at 10:19 PM, Harmonics101 said:

    Pictures? Measurements?  Messed up? Bring it in to get it checked out.

    You're not the first hand purchaser so stop bashing the guitar.


    No one is bashing the guitar I bought it for next to nothing and refretted it with stainless frets … Its a  good en now . I did not say it was Gibsons fault at any point ? All though I am a luthier and have seen a lot of Gibson guitars with finishing faults ie glue lines. Even bridge to 12th fret measurements way out. So its not uncommon. 

  3. On 8/4/2019 at 4:59 AM, 62burst said:

    Welcome to the forum. It sounds like your Hummingbird just had some bad set up work and fret leveling done on it at some point. Good to hear you're getting it straightened out- the guitar should sound and play much better once you get things dialed in. To Mr Harmonics- the OP was more likely saying the playing condition of the guitar was a dog, but he still likes the 'Bird, enough to put in the effort to make it right (?)

    Measuring two Hummingbird bridge heights just now, the 2014 was 7.~~mm tall, and the 2016 = 8. ~~mm. Not going to lose any sleep over it. And as Buc said, 70's Gibsons are such a different thing than those made before and after that era. 

    Since the bridges go on after the finishing and the neck, maybe someone who knows more about the production end of things could answer the question of:

    if there are slight differences in the original neck angle, could there be some compensation for that when picking a bridge for the guitar, or is that job left to the saddle height, and there's just a box of bridges, grab one, and away it goes.


    I have seen a lot Gibson Acoustics in the last few years and wondered how they made it out of the factory. They were expensive firewood.

  4. Im not bashing the Guitar Harmonics 101.. And no it has not had any bridge work blindboygrunt . This guitar IS a victim of bad work by  third party. Luckily I have managed to restore it to its relatively recent 2012 state with the addition of some stainless steel frets... I am a guitar Luthier over here in the UK and sometimes a good buy happens. I practically stole it from the previous owner and it now sounds beautiful again. Oh 62burst the height of the bridge on this one was 10.8mm very high as if it had not been finnished. I have finished it now and the neck bridge angle is correct . Oh how do I insert a picture on here when they all easily exeed the permitted size??

  5. Hi I am new to the forum and have purchased a second hand 2012 hummingbird . It needed re fretting so got that done with stainless 0090" 0055" frets. Somewhere down the road the action had been messed with.  The truss rod was causing a backbow and the frets had been crowned unevenly. It was a dog but the wood was good as they say and have rebuilt it. Was looking at the bridge on it and it seems very thick compared with a seventies hummingbird a friend owns. Are the bridges not standard size and are they seem to vary ? By nearly 2mm in this case as the seventies bird has a bridge of around 8mm. Anyway just an observation any comments appreciated.

  6. On 7/24/2019 at 4:23 PM, billroy said:

    Hi all - trying to at least get close to singing in key, I've started to use a capo a bit.  I just use a $14 Keyser and do not have any complaints - but I got my Guild used with what I believe to be capo wear spots on the neck at the 1st/2nd/5th frets...  So before I cause issues with the J45 - do I need to be concerned with the capo wearing spots on my guitar neck, and is that justification for one of those hi $$ ones?

    Thanks all for any input - rgds - billroy

    I use a Shugg capo . They are soft rubber and have adjustable tension 

  7. 15 hours ago, Black Dog said:

    Sorry, but, am I to understand this is a 7 year old guitar that you just purchased and you're asking about problems related to the original factory setup??

    Edit: is it NOS or previously owned?

    Sorry for he confusion.. I am a second owner and would like to know if there are any Gibson recomended luthieres in the UK

  8. Hi I am new to the forum. love the Gibson history, have just purchased a 2012 hummingbird.Honeyburst. Setup was not what I expected but I guess when you have to market of a lot of different countries 'climates and humidities. You cannot do a final setup. I feel there could be certified gibson luthiers that set them up basicaly when they come into the country? as I had to pay extra to get the guitar sounding the way it should. Luckily I know a good luthier. The nut needed a bit of attention and the neck needed to be almost straight with only 4 thou relief to feel right. Anyway has anyone else had issues with setup with their Gibson acoustic ? Any comments welcomed. By the way the guitar is fab now.

  9. On 1/25/2016 at 12:08 AM, BozeMan said:



    I've had several Gibson Acoustics, but I'm writing about my J-45 TV. It's from 2008. I love the sound of the guitar, but I'm not happy with the action after the 5th fret.


    I've adjusted the truss rod to what I believe to be correct, and I've sanded down the saddle - with no buzz, but if I take it down any more I know it will buzz.


    I'm still seeing about 6/32" at the 12th fret. Which isn't tremendous, I know, but everything I read/see says it should be around 3/32 or 4/32.


    Are there any other options for lowering the action on an acoustic?


    Everything I read talks about adjusting the truss rod and maybe sanding the saddle a little. What do you do from there?


    Any input or direction would be greatly appreciated.



    ARE YOU SURE ITS 6/32  AND NOT 6/64'

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