dreamingGibson

Yeah, I have files as well, but I just chose notched saddles to knock out the work Id have to do.. I did file more to secure the strings in their slots, but at least, the work is minimal. hehe

Due to Gibson’s lacklustre qc on notching their bridge saddles, I bought a replacement Faber bridge so I can correct my string spacing (on the bridge) and have a nice alignment of strings from the stop tail, to the fretboard, to the nut! Gibson’s notching on the saddles aren’t centered and are all over the place! At least my OCD now is satisfied.

Thank you guys! had the chance to play it live last Sunday.. I'm absolutely in heaven in playing this guitar.. The playability and build quality is definitely what sets this guitar above anything I've ever played. wow, just wow. another view of the gorgeous top this 335 has! the last pic I ever took of my strat which is now gone to fund this 335.. LOL

Thank you so much sir!

Yes sir!!

Thank you sir!! It's VERY NICE!

So, I’m back to being a one-guitar guy again. Sold my 330 and my avri 57 strat. Lol But I think, I like it this way, especially since I finally got to a point wherein, I can no longer have anything better. And it’s my first ever custom shop from any brand. Also, my amp/rig gets a little more focused, and I have a little more direction on where to go next. I’ll sorely miss my Avri 57 strat though. But I cant keep it. I played my cards right, i think. She’s here. Untitled by D Y, on Flickr Untitled by D Y, on Flickr Untitled by D Y, on Flickr If you have the chance to let go of everything to chase the one, will you do it? I’m probably crazy, or just stricken with this beautiful 335. This is the exact guitar I have:

I’m in the process of looking at options while I use the Trapeze for now. I didnt want to drill new holes. Towner sells a B6 with a hinge replaced and strap button adaptor, so i can just use the strap button to hold it all, but I’m afraid that the B6 might be too long and I’ll lose the break angle over the floating bridge making it lose and move. probably a B7, but I’m not sure if the screw holes match the existing holes on top of the guitar. i like the guitar a lot, and the bones are good, but i guess repairing the screw breaking in the tuner screw hole and finish cracks is what I’m prepared to spend at the moment. Hehe

okay! Thanks for the tip! I think i need to get the half screw thats stuck inside one of the holes in the G string tuner. Then probably change to Grovers to cover the flaking finish.

Yeah, I get you. I'm actually dreading what my luthier will charge for this.. I've already set it up, luckily the frets are good and levelled as I was able to set up the same way my Gibson 330 is, and that was professionally done (fret work, nut, etc etc).. Id still take it some time when I've already tested this guitar in a live performance and be quite sure that I want to keep this, then it goes to my luthier for proper work, maybe a refret as the frets are lower than my 330, and some nut work.. Id get a huge bill for sure!

Thank you! i will consider this option!

Finally new gold parts came in to replace some crappy hardwares.. I never use the Bigsby so out it goes and Allparts Trapeze in. Just FYI, it’s not a direct fit. The top 2 screw holes on the trapeze plate are 0.5mm wider than the existing holes, so i had to kind of skew the screw a bit. It fits okay. The strap button screw however needed to be elongated. As the trapeze plate bottom screw hole is about 2-3mm lower than the existing hole. I had to get my metal rasps and slowly shave away and make a vertical oblong shape hole so i can screw in the new strap button. It wont be seen anyway due to the strap button covering it. The original bushings were pushed so tight that when I tried to wiggle it out, no matter how slow and careful, it still took some damage off. The areas where the A, D and high E strings got the finish flaked off. Its bugging me, but I did my best, oh well, i think Id keep the guitar anyway. I’ll have it fixed when it’s time for a refret or refinish. Lol. Gotoh SD90’s are also not a direct fit. The original bushings are smaller so i had to enlarge the holes a bit to fit the new gold bushings. Also, i think the Gotoh’s posts are shorter. I use 11-52’s and the low E string cant be wound more than 2.5 wraps. Other strings are fine. Screwing in the tuners, i made a mistake of screwing it tightly that it cracked the finish and I broke one of the screws in half on the G string tuner. So the other half is buried. The other screw is fine and tight. This might be an expensive fix to match the finish, given it’s metallic gold, so I’ll probably have it done in 3-4 years or never. Its securely in place, but just worried about the tuner itself. Lol. Anyone know a good solution/fix to broken screws buried in a hole? Lol My goodness, i didnt know Bigsby screw diameters are so big. Lol. Its a gaping hole! Id probably get some short gold screws to put into these holes, or I’ll just leave it as it is. There’s really nothing I can do about it. i also had to use existing chrome bridge posts. The Gotoh GE103B bridge is the only part that drops right in, however the posts included in this is soooo ridiculously long. And I have no saw to shorten it. So, i used the existing posts. Lol. Overall, not much work done, made some booboos but, I didnt destroy the guitar.. maybe needs a fix here and there, also I didnt drill new holes for the trapeze- which I’m happy with - and I like this so much better. Uncluttered, simple and stable. It looks great with gold on gold. Only one big screw hole is visible, but really not an issue. It is what it is. Heheh. happy how it turned out. I like the aesthetics of the Trapeze rather than the busy looking Bigsby. And I just wished I was more careful screwing the tuners in! LOL

i used to not get why people would play them! then I played a guitar with 2 of them. Im sold HB’s dont do it for me either! and beautiful guitars sir!

i used to be a die-hard fan of Telecaster single coils. but once I had a tele with P90’s, i never looked back! P90’s does it for me!

Hi sir, Ah, yes, the "Premium" models is not what I have.. I specifically want the older Peerless models because they botched the body shape on the "Premium" model.. in my opinion they look a bit ugly, especially the Florentine cutaway.. although they got the color and the knobs right, it's also deeper/thicker than older models and has US wiring and US P90's.. there's three versions. first one - small F-hole, wrong 4-knob position, nicest body shape and cutaway (IMHO) second one - larger F-hole, correct4-knob position, nice body shape and cutaway Third one - Premium model, nitro finish, US Pickups and electronics, ugly body shape.

I dont think it is, Its a 1997 Peerless made. So not sure if it came with USA P90’s, however previous owner replaced it with Standard Lollar P90’s already. one of the very first years of reissue, i think may as well be very first batch as it only has a single side dot fret marker on the 12th fret. The 1998 model I saw already has 2 side dot fret markers on the 12th fret. tuners are crumbling so I ordered a set of gold Gotoh SD90’s and will replace the bridge with a Gold Nashville tune o matic bridge

So, I have a list called “Affordable Unicorns”. This is a list of guitars from different manufacturers from specific years of productions which I really like. They dont cost a lot, sometimes they do when they’re in pretty good condition, but they’re tough to find! At very near the top of the list is this, One of the rare reissues from Epiphone, Peerless Factory made in 1997. Ive been looking for one close to 4 years already!!! It’s one of the very first batch due to have a Single side-dot inlay on the 12th fret.. then some key features I like are; small F-hole and most importantly they got it right with the body shape and Florentine cutaway which is very close to Gibsons. I love Florentine cutaways and this has the more beautiful fish-hook shape than the second version (bigger f-hole) and the Premium one. Body depth is thinner and knob placements are not correct for this model, well, you cant have everything. Hehe. The consolation is the pickups have been changed to standard Lollar P90’s which sounds great! Rosewood fretboard is outstanding and not cheap looking! Resonance and overall feel is close the Gibson, but my 330 takes the cake for the overall build quality and feels better. Both put together well. The neck feels nice and fast. Its very rare to find one let alone, one in excellent condition with a price thats not bloated out of this world. So i think I got lucky with this one! Cleaned and oiled the fretboard, and polished the frets! Now it plays EVEN better! and the common sickness among P90 dog ear pickups! The volume balance between neck and bridge!! Good thing I still have spare shims from Lollar for my 330. that’s better! Bridge pickup is now rocking.

I only have one at the moment. My first Gibson. Gibson ES-330 VOS Untitled by D Y, on Flickr

I actually like both reds you posted.. I stand by my preference that an ES looks soooo goood in Cherry Red than any other color.. although its strange to see a Lucille in a different color other than black and gold. LOL. but its a nice one! how does yours play? I actually want to get the Epiphone version of it.. on the 64, I see that the string alignment is also not centered and leaning towards the treble side.. Im guessing thats more expensive than my 330 VOS.. im sensing that this is quite a normal thing for Gibsons and having strings centered on the fretboard is a lucky one.. LOL

Hi sir, Thank you. Like you, I was very impressed with the VOS finish. I like it better than any of the stage of Fender relic'ing.. and at least the body doesnt have any dents or scratches.. just dulling of paint and some hardware dulling, although I might buff those with rusted parts as it doesnt look so appealing. LOL on sunburst, Im okay if its a vintage piece, with the checks and real nitro fade and wear.. I dont like them shiny and new.. thats another reason why I didnt go for the other standard Memphis in sunset burst.. and I also dont like the burst at the back.. the stock photos show a brown color back but the actual items have burst which I didnt like.. I think the only thing I wish is that they put the gold reflector knobs on the red to have a little bit of contrast.. and regarding the string alignment, the more I look at it, the more its okay to me.. its not affecting anything.. in fact the wider nut width, string spacing and neck width at the 12th fret affected me more in terms of playing style and getting used to it.. Ive played vintage spec telecasters with narrower nut width and neck and gotten so used to it that this neck is a welcome change.. no more cramped fretboard for me. LOL.. I may actually have it adjusted slightly when I have it professionally set up and when Faber hardware comes in with un notched saddles..for now, I'll enjoy this as is.. its a really good sounding instrument..

The stock photos are actually deceiving.. but when it arrived, it was just Cherry Red.. but I love this color anyway, dark or just standard cherry, Im okay with it.. would love to have it just like it was in the stock photo though..

on this photo, its very noticeable; Untitled by D Y, on Flickr the strings run over the pickup poles perfectly which is great, but you can still see the strings leaning toward the bass side here; Untitled by D Y, on Flickr Yes, it really doesnt affect playability, and it plays really well. I dont see it when playing and i forget about it when I’m in the tone zone anyway lol. but there are times when I just open the case, bring the guitar our, and stare at it and marvel on its beauty. Then I see the slight misalignment.

thank you sir, it is very hard to photograph! Well, the red is the perfect shade of red that I love on ES-3xx guitars. And the only other color I want on an ES is black. the wood grain is visible, but the wood itself isn’t crazy figured. You can see some grains but its Kind of plain looking, which is fine by me. Not really looking to get that crazy grains you can see on vintage ES-3xx guitars. Maybe when its older and the color is fading, the grains would pop more!

thank you sir. TBH, Its just aesthetics to me, including all the issues Ive mentioned (tooling marks on bindings, etc etc), and its just driving my OCD and given the fact that I cannot unscrew and re-screw the neck on this one and thats giving me something to think about even if its very slight. i’m used to have very little real estate on both sides as Ive been playing vintage spec teles and I never had any problem. i do agree with you that it really plays nice. Solidly built and VERY NICE sounding instrument. It actually sounds better unplugged than my Yamaha Fs820. Lol. but yeah. That small bias just made it “almost” perfect, but at the same time, giving it a bit of character

Also, are you guys bothered by the slight misalignment of strings? its leaning towards the bass side and while it's not affecting playability, its triggering my OCD.. not sure if the neck is set incorrectly or the bridge itself.. I also see this on other Les Pauls, 335's SGs, etc.. I know I can notch the saddles and have it spread evenly across the fretboard, but I prefer the strings to be centered on the saddles instead.. did you guys have this kind of problem with your Gibsons? I dont want to return it as it sounds so good, and besides the fact that its a 2018 model and I may not find another one that sounds as good and the neck profile might vary.. here's some front photos to show the misalignment.. Untitled by D Y, on Flickr Untitled by D Y, on Flickr